Category: Organic no dig gardening tips and techniques

No dig hints, tips, and techniques, including topics such as soil health, garden tools, no dig strategies, pest and disease control.

  • Butterflies Can Spell Trouble for Your Brassicas

    It all starts innocently enough: a beautiful summers day, the garden is filled with lovely white butterflies which gently lands one of your brassicas (cabbage, kale, brussels and the like). But what looks like a charming encounter can mark the beginning of devastation for your precious brassica crop. In the UK, several butterflies are notorious for laying their eggs on plants like broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and kale. Chief among them are the Large White (Pieris brassicae), often called the “Cabbage White”, and the Small White (Pieris rapae). While they might look delicate, their offspring are anything but.

    Butterflies typically lay their eggs on the underside of brassica leaves, often in sheltered spots protected from wind and rain. The Large White lays eggs in clusters of 20 to 50—bright yellow, bullet-shaped with ridged sides—easy to spot if you know what you’re looking for. The Small White, by contrast, lays single eggs that are slightly smaller, also yellow and oval-shaped. These eggs hatch in as little as four to eight days depending on temperature, so timing is crucial. If you catch them early, you can gently rub them off with your fingers or use a damp cloth to remove them before they hatch into hungry caterpillars.

    Once hatched, the caterpillars waste no time. The Large White caterpillar is yellow-green with bold black spots and fine hairs and can grow up to 4 cm. The Small White caterpillar is pale green, velvety, and less conspicuous. The Cabbage Moth (Mamestra brassicae) adds another layer of trouble: its caterpillars are dull green or brown and often hide during the day, feeding mostly at night. These larvae go through multiple moulting stages (instars), each time growing larger and more voracious.
    During this feeding frenzy, the damage to your plants can be extensive. Young brassica seedlings are particularly vulnerable and can be completely stripped of leaves in just a few days. Even larger, established plants suffer from tattered leaves, reduced photosynthesis, and in some cases, stunted growth or secondary infections.
    Caterpillar droppings—small, dark green or black pellets (or frass) —often collect in leaf crevices or inside tight

    cabbage heads, making the crops messy and more susceptible to rot, particularly in the damp UK climate.
    So, how do you stop these miniature munchers from ruining your hard work? Prevention and vigilance are key. The earlier you act, the better your chances of saving your crop. Some of the best non-chemical control methods include:

    • Fine mesh netting: Use 0.8 mm mesh over hoops to stop butterflies from reaching your plants altogether. Ensure the netting is well-secured at the ground to prevent sneaky access.
    • Regular inspections: Check the undersides of leaves every few days for eggs or tiny caterpillars, especially in warm weather when butterflies are most active.
    • Hand-picking: Remove caterpillars and eggs by hand and drop them into a bucket of soapy water—oddly satisfying and highly effective. Too squeamish to drop them into soapy water then just re-home them as far away from your brassicas as possible!
    • Encouraging predators: Birds, beetles, and parasitic wasps are natural allies in the fight against caterpillars. A wildlife-friendly garden invites these helpful hunters.
    • Companion planting: Try nasturtiums, which lure butterflies away from your brassicas, or strongly scented herbs like thyme, dill, and sage, which can confuse or deter pests.
    • Neem oil spray: Derived from the neem tree (Azadirachta indica), neem oil acts as a natural insect growth regulator. It disrupts the caterpillars’ ability to feed and moult by interfering with their hormones. Spray it on the leaves (especially the undersides) in the early morning or late evening, and reapply after rain. It’s best used when you first spot eggs or tiny caterpillars.
    • Nematodes: Beneficial nematodes enter caterpillars through their mouth, anus, or breathing pores (Gross I know, but effective) Once inside, the nematodes release a specific type of bacteria that is lethal to the caterpillar. The nematodes then feed on the caterpillar’s body and reproduce, further spreading the infection. These nematodes are harmless to plants, humans, pets, and other beneficial insects like bees and ladybugs, making them a safe option for pest control. My top tip here is don’t spray too much oil onto young seedlings, just a smidge, you don’t want to suffocate very young growth.

    One of the best defences is early detection. Make it part of your routine to lift leaves and look very closely, especially in warm spells when butterflies are most active. Remember, even tiny seedlings aren’t safe—caterpillars can completely destroy young plants before you even notice they’re there. Established plants can usually survive some damage, but yields and quality will suffer if infestations are heavy.
    Creating a caterpillar-unfriendly environment doesn’t mean going to war with nature. Quite the opposite—inviting nature in can help restore balance. Birds such as blue tits, robins, and sparrows feast on caterpillars, especially if you provide feeders or nesting boxes nearby. Ground beetles and parasitic wasps also help keep caterpillar numbers down. By fostering biodiversity in your garden with flowers, wild corners, and insect hotels, you’ll increase the odds that predators outnumber pests. Even with good biodiversity, nothing beats checking regularly by hand and removing the little beasties.
    In the end, a bit of vigilance, a watchful eye, and some physical barriers will all go a long way. There’s no need for harsh chemicals when nature already offers elegant solutions. Whether you’re growing kale in a raised bed or a few cabbages in the allotment, keeping on top of caterpillars is simply part of the rhythm of the gardening year. With a little effort, your brassicas can thrive—hole-free and delicious, just the way they should be.

    One last piece of advice – rinse you brassicas under the tap prior to cooking. I can’t tell you the amount of times I’ve started cooking cabbage leaves only to see a boiled caterpillar float to the top of the pan. Gross I know. 

    Let me know in the comments how you deal with caterpillars in your growing area.

    If are a beginner gardener you might find these blog posts helpful How to Start Your First Organic Vegetable Garden or Labelling: simple but vital

    Thanks for reading, I hope it was helpful.

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  • Harvesting Onions – lift don’t pull!

    Harvesting Onions for Storage:

    Harvesting onions at the right time and in the right way can affect how well they will store in the months ahead. Once the tops of your onions begin to yellow and flop over it’s a sign they’re ready to be harvested. This normally happens in late summer but with the constant changes in our climate it can often happen earlier. When onions have ‘fallen over’ (bend at the neck) it’s a good indicator that your onions have reached maturity.

    It may be tempting to yank them out of the ground given that they are almost sitting on top of it anyway, but resist that urge! Pulling them out of the ground can not only bruise the bulbs, but can also tear the tops which can influence how they store later.

    Timing can also be key to longevity. Harvesting during a run of dry weather can ensure less moisture gets into the plant. Ideally have a couple of dry days prior to lifting to ensure the onions are nice and dry prior to lifting.

    Lifting them gently with a garden fork or hand tool is the way forward. You want to make sure you get underneath each onion and raise them gently out of the ground. Don’t be tempted to tug, taking some time and patience now will pay dividends in the future. Once you have the onion out of the ground gently remove the soil from around the root.

    This gentle lift will help preserve the neck (see photo above) and integrity of the plant – both keys for longer term storage.

    Be careful not to remove too much of the papery skin (or tunic) that protects the inner flesh. The skin will act as a protective layer during storage preventing them from drying out and rotting. It also helps to seal in moisture and acts as a barrier against dirt and disease.

    Don’t worry too much if you have onions that are not perfectly covered in the papery skin – they will still store, it just means that you will need to keep more of an eye on those and possibly use them up first.

    After harvesting, the curing process is crucial.

    Curing allows the moisture in the neck of the plant to dry out, damp soggy necks allow moisture down into the bulb which can cause the onion to rot. Curing also helps that papery skin to develop further so protecting your precious harvest.

    Lay your onions out in a single layer in a dry, (dry is the watchword here) warm, well-ventilated space like a garage, shed, or covered porch. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can sunburn the bulbs. Allow them to cure for two to three weeks, or until the necks are fully dry and the outer skin is crispy and rustling to the touch. The previously green foliage should also be brown, if it is still green then the onion may not be fully cured. Proper curing extends shelf life and minimizes the risk of mould or sprouting later on.

    You can dry them in a greenhouse, just make sure you do it in a shady spot and use a shade cloth over them if you are worried about them getting too much sun. They need to dry in there not roast 😊

    Once your onions are fully cured, it’s time to prep them for storage. Trim the roots with scissors and cut the tops down to about an inch or two above the bulb—or, if you prefer, leave the tops intact for braiding or plaiting. Any onions with soft spots, bruises, or signs of damage should be used up first, as they won’t store well. Gently brush off any excess dirt, but don’t wash them—moisture is the enemy of storage onions.

    For storage, choose a cool, dry, and dark place—ideally between 32°F and 40°F with low humidity. Mesh bags, crates, or hanging braids in a well-ventilated pantry or cellar all work well. Airflow is critical, so avoid sealed containers. Plaiting or braiding onions by their dried tops not only looks lovely but also helps with airflow and space efficiency.

    Check stored onions every few weeks and remove any that are starting to soften or sprout to prevent spoilage from spreading.

    Beyond traditional storage, there are other ways to preserve onions for the long haul.

    Dehydrating sliced onions for rehydrating later in stews or casseroles is an excellent option and ideal if you are short on space. My personal favourite is dehydrating any damaged onions from my harvest, then grinding them down to make onion powder. 

    You can also chop and freeze onions—though frozen onions are best used in cooked dishes, as they will lose their crunch. My tip for freezing onions is to ‘open freeze’ them first, then bag them. Pickling is another flavourful option, there are many recipes online for quick fridge pickles, red onions in particular make a very attractive looking pinkish pickle.

    Don’t worry if you don’t get the storage options it right the first time, it takes time to understand how your specific environment works. However, taking time to lift, cure, and store onions correctly and with care will help to ensure they last well into the winter months and possibly beyond.

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  • Labelling: simple but vital

    The Power of the Plant Tag: Why Labelling Your Vegetable Seeds Matters

    Two small pots with young cilantro seedlings, one in a black container and the other in an orange container, both labeled with tags.
    Two young plants that at first sight look very similar. On the right is celery on the left celeriac.

    Planting a vegetable patch is an exciting adventure, filled with the promise of fresh homegrown goodness. However, in the initial enthusiasm it’s easy to overlook a crucial step: labeling your seeds when planted.

    Taking a few extra moments to label your seeds immediately after planting can save you a world of confusion, misidentification, and frustration later on. While it might seem like a minor detail in the grand scheme of things, taking a few seconds to clearly mark what you’ve planted can save you a world of confusion and potential disappointment down the line. Proper labelling eliminates guesswork, ensuring you can accurately track the progress of each variety and provide the specific care it needs.

    Beyond simple identification, labels become invaluable as your garden matures. Knowing exactly what you planted allows you to anticipate harvest times and plan your meals accordingly. It also helps you observe the particular characteristics of each plant, noting which varieties thrive in your specific soil and microclimate. Furthermore, if you’re saving seeds for future planting, accurate labelling is absolutely essential to maintain the integrity of each variety. Without clear markers, you risk cross-pollination and the unintentional creation of hybrid plants, potentially losing the desirable traits of the original seeds.

    In essence, labelling your vegetable seeds is an act of foresight and organisation that pays dividends throughout the growing season. It transforms your garden from a collection of anonymous green shoots into a well-documented and manageable space. So, grab your labels and make sure each tiny seed has its name proudly displayed – your future gardening self will thank you!

    Why Early Labelling Is Important

    1. Avoid Misidentification: Many seedlings look nearly identical in their early stages. Without a label, distinguishing between celeriac from celery or cauliflower from cabbage can be next to impossible even as the plants start to mature.
    2. Better Care Planning: Different vegetables have different watering, spacing, and feeding needs. Accurate labels ensure each plant gets the care it needs from day one.
    3. Track Germination: Labeling allows you to keep track of when and where seeds were planted, making it easier to monitor germination success or failure.
    4. Succession Planting: If you’re planning multiple crops in the same bed, labels help you manage timelines and avoid overcrowding or forgotten crops.
    5. Seed Saving: Knowing exactly what you planted is essential for collecting seeds at the end of the season, especially for heirloom varieties.
    6. You won’t remember: If I had a gold coin for every time I have said to myself that I don’t need to label because I will remember – then I would be a very rich woman. No matter the intention you won’t remember to go back and label 70% of the time. So again, label the second that seed hits the soil.

    Types of Plant Labels

    You don’t need anything fancy, but a little forethought helps. Here are some reliable options:

    • Plastic or Bamboo Plant Tags: Widely available and reusable. Write with a permanent marker or pencil for best longevity.
    • Wooden lolly Sticks: Affordable and biodegradable, great for indoor or short-term use. I say indoor because it makes no real difference what type of marker/pen or pencil you use eventually with a bit of rain or watering the lettering will smudge and you’re right back where you started.
    • Repurposed Items: Cut up old blinds, yogurt tubs, into lables. Even flat stones make excellent DIY labels. It might be worth popping a splash of varnish (clear nail varnish will do) over the lettering as equally the text will wash off over time.
    • Printable Garden Labels: These can be laminated for weatherproofing and aesthetics.
    • Digital Garden Maps: Not physical labels, but helpful for larger gardens where a master plan can guide your layout. Having said that, if you’re anything like me I can plan all I want to but will still plant randomly if my plan isn’t to hand.

    Tips for Staying Organised

    1. Create a Labelling Kit: Keep a small box with labels, a waterproof marker, twine, and scissors near to where you are planting your seeds.
    2. Label straight away: Make it a rule—no seed goes in the soil without a label going in right after. Delaying even by a few minutes can mean you move onto something else and forget.
    3. Use Abbreviations for Small Spaces: If you’re short on room, create a shorthand system—just be sure to note it somewhere! Perhaps keep it in your labeling kit box.
    4. Colour-Code by Plant Type: Use coloured labels or pens to distinguish herbs, vegetables, or flowers at a glance.
    5. Keep a Garden Journal: Record what you planted and where. If a label fades or disappears, your journal can save the day.
    6. Use both sides of your label: You can use both sides of your label especially those little white plastic ones. Yes I know it’s plastic, but they are significantly cheaper than some of the more fancy garden centre labels. If you intend to use the clean side of your label for some of this years seeds or event next year, make sure you cross out the text on the used side. Nothing more frustrating than having a label with writing on both sides and not knowing which is which.

    Your Future Self will Thank You

    Good labelling isn’t just about staying organised today. Later in the season, you’ll be glad you made the effort. From harvest planning to crop rotation next year, having a clear record of what was planted where, can improve your yields and reduce the risk of disease. It’s also a huge help if you want to share tips or seeds with other gardeners—or just avoid that courgette/zucchini overload you accidentally caused last year!


    Final Thought

    Labelling may seem like an insignificant task compared to digging or watering, but trust me it will save a whole lot of hassle later on. A little organisation early on leads to a smoother, more successful growing season. So next time you open that seed packet, grab your marker too—you’ll thank yourself later

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