Tag: grow your own

  • Ultimate Guide to Growing Sage at Home

    Close-up of green sage leaves with a pastel background, surrounded by images of other herbs like lavender and decorative elements.

    An easy guide to growing this aromatic herb using organic methods

    Sage (Salvia officinalis) is one of the most useful herbs you can grow at home. Belonging to the Lamiaceae family, it’s related to rosemary, thyme, lavender, and mint. With its fragrant leaves and attractive appearance, sage is both ornamental and practical. Sage has many uses in the kitchen, around the home, and is an excellent medicinal herb. This makes Sage a must for any garden and it’s a fantastic way to start and self-sufficiency journey.

    A brief history of Sage

    The word salvia comes from Latin salvare, meaning “to save” reflecting its long use as a healing plant. Sage was valued by the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, who believed it had protective and medicinal qualities. It likely arrived in Britain with the Romans, and by medieval times it was a staple of monastery gardens for both food and medicine.

    Starting Sage from Seed

    Growing sage from seed takes patience, as the seeds take time to germinate, but it’s rewarding:

    1. When to sow – Start seeds indoors in early spring. usually from March to May. If you have a polytunnel or greenhouse you could probably extend this optimal sowing time by a month or so.
    2. Compost – Use a free-draining seed compost, ideally mixed with a little perlite or horticultural sand.
    3. Sowing – Scatter seeds on the surface, then cover lightly with a thin layer of compost, or vermiculite.
    4. Conditions – Keep at 18–21°C, moist but not soggy. (as I always say they are plants not ducks 🦆 Germination takes 2–3 weeks.

    What sage looks like at each stage:

    • Seedlings – Tiny green sprouts with two smooth leaves.
    • Young plants – Small grey-green true leaves appear, slightly textured and softly hairy.
    • Establishing stage – Woody stems begin at the base, plant fills out into a small bush.
    • Flowering stage – In late spring to early summer, mature plants produce short spikes of two-lipped flowers, usually in shades of violet to purple (sometimes white or pink depending on the variety). The blooms attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.
    • Mature plants – Bushy shrub, 60–90 cm tall and wide, evergreen leaves year-round. This means you can pretty much harvest leaves throughout the year.

    🌱 Tip: If growing from seed feels too slow, you can buy plug plants or small pots from a reputable garden centres and skip straight to planting out. Don’t see this a cheating, if you are struggling to grow from it from seed. I often grow things from both seed and plug plants or starts. If I am at a garden centre (which I am, more often than I probably should be 😂) and see a healthy start plant I will often buy it just in case my seeds don’t germinate. Absolutely no shame in that!

    Planting and Positioning

    Sage likes plenty of sun and well-drained soil.

    • Sunlight – Choose a sunny position (at least 6 hours of sunlight per day).
    • Soil – Sage dislikes heavy, wet clay. If necessary, improve drainage with grit or sharp sand. Much as I dislike digging you may need to dig the grit or sharp sand into the soil. Alternatively you can add a decent amount of compost on top of the clay soil which should help the roots to establish in a less dense medium.
    • Spacing – Leave about 50 cm (20 in) between plants in the ground. Sage plants can get quite busy and may take up more space than you think when they mature.
    • Pots (containers) – Use a pot at least 25–30 cm (10–12 in) wide and deep. Terracotta pots are ideal as they let excess moisture evaporate. The pot will restrict the size of the plant. You may find that over a number of years the plant might need to get your plant into a bigger pot. Especially if you see the plant suffering.

    🌱 Container tip: Avoid plastic pots without drainage holes—sage hates sitting in water (plants not ducks 😊)

    Care and Maintenance

    Watering

    • Keep soil moist while plants are young.
    • Once established, sage is drought-tolerant—water only when the topsoil feels dry.
    • Avoid overwatering; soggy roots can cause the woody stems to rot.

    Feeding & Mulching

    • You shouldn’t need to feed your sage plant. If you are growing sage in a container it may be useful give it a couple of feeds with some organic tomato feed.
    • Mulch with gravel, bark chips, or light compost to retain moisture and reduce weeds.

    Pruning

    • In early spring, cut back old woody stems to encourage fresh growth.
    • After flowering, trim off the spent flower stalks to tidy the plant and prevent it becoming straggly.
    • Light trimming throughout summer keeps the plant bushy. Replace plants every 4–5 years as they become too woody. You will know when the plant comes to the end of it’s time as the woody stems become brittle and are easily broken.

    Pests & Problems

    In my experience sage is a low maintenance plant, but then I grow it in a mixed herb bed along with varying types of thyme, chives, fennel, the odd curry plant, dill and fennel. Even so there are little critters that can damage your sage which I’ve listed below:

    • Aphids – Small green or black insects cluster on soft stems and leaf tips.
      • Organic solution: Spray plants with a weak solution of washing-up liquid (dish soap) and water, or introduce ladybirds (ladybugs), which naturally prey on aphids.
    • Whitefly – Tiny white moth-like insects that fly up when plants are disturbed.
      • Organic solution: Use yellow sticky traps, encourage natural predators such as lacewings, or spray with a garlic or neem oil solution.
    • Spider mites – Very small pests that create fine webs on the underside of leaves, often in dry, hot conditions.
      • Organic solution: Increase humidity by misting plants, wipe leaves with a damp cloth, or spray with organic insecticidal soap.
    • Powdery mildew – A white, dusty coating that can appear if sage is overcrowded or lacks airflow.
      • Organic solution: Thin out plants to improve circulation and spray leaves with a solution of 1 part milk to 9 parts water, which helps prevent fungal spread.

    🌿 Prevention tip: Healthy sage plants in sunny, well-drained conditions rarely suffer from pests. Keeping good spacing between plants, avoiding overwatering, and pruning regularly are the best organic defences. A healthy well mulched soil will also help the plant to establish and remain healthy.

    Companion Planting

    Sage is excellent in a mixed bed:

    • Plant near cabbages and carrots to deter pests.
    • Pair with rosemary, thyme, and lavender for a beautiful Mediterranean-style herb border.
    • Avoid placing next to cucumbers, which dislike strong-smelling herbs.

    Harvesting and Preserving

    • Pick leaves regularly through spring and summer to encourage new growth.
    • Harvest sparingly in the first year; more heavily in the second and beyond.
    • Flowers are edible too—use them to decorate salads or flavour vinegar. Herb vinegar is a easy as this: Wash and pat dry sage leaves (about 2 handfuls) put the sage into a glass jar or bottle. Pour over some white or red wine, leave for 2 or 3 weeks and hey presto you have sage vinegar to use in salads or even on your chips (fries). Just make sure that if the bottle or jar has a metal top it doesn’t come into contact with the vinegar as it can affect the taste of the vinegar.

    Preserving methods

    • Drying – Tie small bunches and hang upside down in a warm, airy place until crisp. Store in jars. Alternatively you can pop them in the oven in a very low heat – until they dry fully. If you have a dehydrator and have space free the next time you are dehydrating pop some on a tray and dehydrate until dry and brittle. We dehydrate our sage in our Rayburn (AGA) in which there is enough latent heat to fully dry a tray of sage in 1 to 2 days
    • Freezing – Freeze whole leaves flat, or chop and freeze in ice cube trays with a little water or olive oil. The olive oil helps to release the cube from the ice tray. You don’t need much just a rub a little around each cell.

    Uses of Sage

    • In the home: Traditional mouthwashes, hair rinses, sage smudge sticks for cleansing spaces. Obviously if you are using sage on your body either internally or externally do your own research into any potential detrimental affects.
      • Sage also make a nice tea – just steep a few leaves for about 5 mins in boiling water and enjoy.
      • There is increasing research to show that the use of sage has an impact on menopausal hot flushes (flashes) and can help with ‘brain fog’. But again consult the appropriate medical practitioner and do your own research prior to using herbs for medicinal purposes.
    • In the kitchen: Flavours stuffing, sauces, and gravies; makes a rich sage butter; delicious with meats, beans, and root vegetables. Sage butter is really easy to make – just chop up some sage leaves very finely, and mix it into the butter. Then portion it out into an ice tray and freeze. The ratio of herb to butter will be down to your own personal taste – so play around with it and see what you like.

    In Conclusion

    With its silvery green leaves, purple summer flowers, and beautiful fragrance, sage is both a useful and attractive addition to any garden. By following the steps above — choosing the right variety, giving it sun and drainage, pruning regularly, and preserving wisely — you’ll enjoy fresh sage all year round.

    Please do share your experience of growing and preserving this amazing herb in the comments below. Good gardeners would all agree there is always something new to learn.

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  • How to grow Kale Organically

    From seed to harvest

    Collage of kale varieties, including a lush row of curly green kale, a close-up of textured green kale leaves, and vibrant red Russian kale, showcasing different types of this nutritious vegetable.
    3 types of Kale

    In recent years the humble kale (Brassica oleracea) has become something of a garden hero with it’s elevation to a ‘superfood’ in 2008. It is said to have more absorbable calcium than a small carton of semi skimmed milk. It’s rich in vitamins A, C, E, and K and contains folate, magnesium and potassium. So no surprises that it’s status as a health food from kale chips to smoothies is cemented in our current thinking.

    From the classic curly green types to the elegant Cavolo Nero (Tuscan kale) and the striking Red Russian, there’s a kale for every plate and every plot. Growing this healthy vegetable organically is easier than you might think. Whether starting it in seed/module trays for transplanting when true leave appear or sowing directly in the ground. Below we will go over each step with some tips and hints along the way.

    Growing Kale in Module Trays

    Planting: Kale seeds are small, dark, and round, rather like tiny peppercorns. To sow in trays, choose a peat-free seed compost and fill your modules or tray to the top. Water the compost prior to sowing. Place one seed per cell at about 1/2 to 1 cm deep, or about 3 cm apart if using a seed tray. Cover the seed with the compost and firm in gently to ensure the seed has good contact with the soil. Keep the compost consistently moist, not soggy, as I always say they are seeds, not ducks, no plant like soggy feet.

    Germination: Kale germinates best between 15–20°C, so in the UK or USDA zone 9, sowing from April to June will give summer crops a good start, while July to September sowings are perfect for overwintering varieties that will sweeten in the frost. This means that you can pretty much have an almost year round supply of this healthy veg.

    Planting out: The seedlings first produce rounded seed leaves (cotyledons), followed by their true leaves—miniature versions of the kale variety you’re growing, complete with curly, flat, or spear-shaped edges. When they have 3–4 true leaves, they’re ready to move outdoors. Harden them off for a week first by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions. Transplant into rich, fertile soil that’s been improved with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure, spacing each row about 45 cm apart and each plant about 50 cm apart. You can get away with reducing the spacing for something like ‘Cavolo Nero’ which doesn’t fill out quite as much. Although spacing is important, I wouldn’t fret too much if you are a few centimetres out. When transplanting into it’s final position firm the soil around the base of the plant. The brassica family like to feel secure in the ground. I always go round the base of the plant with my fists to compress the soil a little to ensure stability. Once in the ground give it a good drink.

    Care and Pests: Kale loves an open, sunny position with free-draining soil. It’s also tolerant of cooler weather, which makes it a reliable crop in temperate climates. Once established, plants need little care beyond watering in dry spells and keeping an eye out for pests. In summer, flea beetles can riddle the leaves with holes and slugs can be an issue at ground level, so organic barriers such as crushed eggshells, wool pellets, or beer traps can be effective. Cabbage white caterpillars and pigeons, are partial to kale and can cause significant damage to your plant. So be vigilant, hand picking caterpillars from the plant or using a garlic wash/spray can help keep infestations down. Netting your crop will also help but make sure there are no holes or gaps. Butterflies are beautiful, but you don’t want them laying eggs on you kale leading to a caterpillar party on your kale leaves. Even with netting, I would still check for pest every couple of days. Mulching with compost or straw helps conserve moisture and keeps weeds down, giving your kale the best chance to thrive.

    You’ll usually be ready to harvest leaves 8–10 weeks after sowing. Pick the lower or outer leaves first and keep the central crown intact for ongoing production right through the season.

    • Seeds are small, dark, and round—sow one per cell, about 1 cm deep.
      • Use peat-free seed compost and keep the soil moist (not waterlogged).
      • Germination is best at 15–20°C (7–10 days to sprout).
    • When to sow
      • April–June → for summer/autumn crops
      • July–October → for overwintering crops (sweeter after frost)
    • Transplanting
      • Harden off seedlings with 3–4 true leaves before planting out.
      • Space rows about 45 cm apart in fertile, well-drained soil enriched with compost or manure.
      • space each plant about 50 cm apart
      • Kale thrives in sun but tolerates partial shade.
    • Pest protection
      • Use fine mesh or netting to protect from pigeons and cabbage white butterflies.
      • Hand-pick caterpillars or try organic garlic spray if infestations build.
    • Harvest
      • Ready 8–10 weeks after sowing.
      • Pick lower or outer leaves first, leaving the central crown to keep producing.

    Growing Kale Directly in the Ground

    Planting: If you prefer to keep things simple, sowing direct into the soil can be just as effective. Prepare your chosen kale patch by removing weeds and adding in plenty of organic matter or peat free compost from a reputable garden centre. You can then either sow seeds thinly in shallow drills about 1 cm deep, leaving around 45 cm between rows and thin out later leaving only the strongest plants (like you might thin carrots). Alternatively sow individual seeds about 50 to 60 cm (24 inches) apart. This is obviously a slightly longer process and a wee bit more fiddly, but cuts out the need to thin out the weaker plants later. Either way leave about 45 cm (17 inches) between each row. I much prefer trying to sow seeds individually as I always feel a little guilty about the seedlings that are discarded when thinning out 😂

    Cover the rows with compost and firm in gently. Water each row being careful not to disturb the newly planted seeds (a watering can with a rose attachment will work best). Don’t blast them with a hose as you risk disturbing the soil and dislodging the seed.

    Seedlings usually appear (usually within 7–10 days). Proper spacing improves airflow, which lowers the risk of pests and disease. Keep the area as weed free as possible and keep moist – again they are seeds not ducks! so avoid waterlogged soil.

    Protection: By the time true leaves appear, you’ll already notice their characteristic kale shape. Protect seedlings with netting that is well secured without gaps if you can. To avoid repeating myself, refer to the paragraph on Care and pests in the planting in seed trays section above. It contains tips on controlling pests like slugs and caterpillars.

    Maturing and Harvesting: Your kale plants should take around 40 to 75 days to fully mature. However, if you grow them for use as baby greens, you may be able to harvest them in as little as 4 to 6 weeks. Harvesting is best done gradually. Pick the outer leaves as you need them. This allows the plant to keep producing from the centre. This “cut-and-come-again” approach means one kale plant can feed you for months. In fact, kale is biennial, meaning it grows leaves in its first year and flowers in its second. If you keep harvesting regularly and don’t let the plant get too stressed, it will remain productive until spring. Left unharvested, it will eventually bolt—sending up flower stalks and going to seed.

    Sowing tips summary for direct planting

    • Sowing tips
      • Prepare the ground with compost or manure.
      • Sow seeds thinly in shallow drills (1 cm deep), rows 45 cm apart.
      • Thin seedlings gradually, let the strongest plants grow on
    • When to sow
      • for summer/autumn crops
      • July–September → for overwintering crops (sweeter after frost)
    • Protection & care
      • Cover seedlings with netting against flea beetles and pigeons.
      • Use organic slug controls: crushed eggshells, wool pellets, or beer traps.
      • Mulch with compost or straw to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
    • Harvest
      • Pick outer leaves regularly (“cut-and-come-again”).
      • Plants stay productive from summer into winter and early spring.
      • Kale is biennial → best harvest in year one, goes to seed in year two.

    Whether sowing directly into the soil or starting in seed trays, take steps to ensure a steady supply. Try succession sowing every 3–4 weeks during the main season.

    Kale also benefits from companion planting: growing it alongside onions, garlic, or herbs like dill can help deter pests naturally. Because kale is a heavy feeder, rotate it with legumes (such as beans or peas) in following seasons. This will help add nitrogen to the soil so improving soil health.

    Don’t forget that if your space is limited you can try growing in pots. You can pop a few seeds in a pot as you would for direct sowing and thin out as they start to grow. Or transplant one of your seed tray seedlings when it has it true leaves. Make sure your pot has good drainage, is at least 30 cm (10 to 12 inches) deep, and mulch around the top to lock in moisture. I would also consider covering with a piece of netting to protect from those pesky caterpillars.

    Finally, don’t be afraid to experiment with different varieties of kale. Cavolo Nero’s long, dark leaves are stunning in both the garden and on the plate. Red Russian offers a softer, sweeter leaf with striking purple veins. The classic curly kale remains a tough, winter-hardy staple. With good soil, a little protection, and steady harvesting, your kale patch can keep you in fresh greens for much of the year.

    For more tips on growing hardy superfoods see this post Grow your own spinach or for beginner organic gardeners see How to start your first organic veg garden

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