Solitaire Gardener

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Tag: grow your own

  • Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation

    Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation

    A woman standing in a garden, observing tomato plants and other vegetables, surrounded by a wooden fence and greenery.

    At this time of year, the vegetable patch seems to change almost daily. Tomatoes are ripening, potato foliage starts to yellow, and courgettes (zucchini) somehow manage to double in size overnight.

    It’s an exciting, busy time of year, and with so much to do, it’s easy to fall into the trap of constantly thinking about the next job:

    • More watering
    • More sowing
    • More weeding
    • More harvesting
    • More jobs!

    But one of the most valuable gardening skills has very little to do with compost, tools or seed packets. It’s learning to slow down, observe, and really notice what your garden is trying to tell you.

    It sounds simple, but this habit can save you time, prevent problems, and make you a far more confident gardener. Taking just 5 or 10 minutes to practice observing will bring you a greater understanding of plant development and what works (or doesn’t) in your growing space.

    Your Garden Is Always Trying to Teach You Something

    Every season your garden gives you clues. As new gardeners, we naturally look for instructions, when to sow, when to water and how to solve problems.

    Over time, however, you begin to realise that your own garden is often the best teacher. Every plot/patch or pot is different, and the more closely you observe yours, the better you’ll understand what works, what doesn’t, and why.

    The question is whether you’re taking the time to notice and act on what it’s trying to tell you.

    Notice What Thrives – And What Doesn’t

    Have you ever grown a crop in the same place two years in a row and been disappointed both times? Perhaps the plants never seemed particularly vigorous. Maybe they struggled to produce a decent harvest or always looked slightly unhappy.

    It’s tempting to blame the weather and try the same thing again next year. Instead, take a closer look and ask better questions.

    • Is that part of the garden more exposed to wind?
    • Does the soil dry out quickly?
    • Is it shaded for longer than you realised?
    • Could it benefit from a little more shelter?

    Sometimes gardening isn’t about trying harder. It’s about recognising when a crop would simply be happier in a different spot.

    Learn the Difference Between a Problem and a Process

    One of the easiest mistakes for beginner gardeners is assuming that every change in a plant means something has gone wrong.

    In reality, plants are constantly changing as they grow.

    For example, lower leaves on tomatoes may yellow as the plant matures. Potato foliage naturally changes through the season. Onion tops begin to yellow and fall over as the bulbs approach maturity.

    Not every yellow leaf is a crisis; not every blemish needs a treatment.

    One of the biggest steps towards becoming a confident gardener is learning which changes are perfectly normal and which genuinely need your attention. The more seasons you observe, the easier this becomes.

    Watch How Vegetables Grow

    Some of the most valuable observations happen when we simply watch how our crops develop.

    Take potatoes, for example.

    Most people know that potatoes grow underground, but fewer pay attention to the stages above ground. Notice when the plants begin flowering. Different varieties behave differently, but flowering often coincides with tuber development beneath the soil. When the foliage begins to yellow and die back, the tuber is generally ready for harvest.

    You don’t need to keep digging around to see what’s happening. The plant is already giving you information.

    The same is true of onions.

    As harvest approaches, the neck softens, and the foliage begins to yellow and flop over. New gardeners sometimes worry that the plants are dying when, in reality, they are preparing for harvest. For more on harvesting onions see here Harvesting Onions – lift don’t pull!

    Courgettes/zucchini offer another excellent lesson in observation. Early in the season, plants often produce male flowers before female flowers appear.

    The male flowers sit on long, thin stems. Female flowers have a tiny immature courgette directly behind the bloom.

    Once you know the difference, you’ll never look at a courgette plant in quite the same way again. For more on abundant courgettes/zucchini, see here: Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips

    Understanding which flowers are which can help you recognise pollination problems and, if necessary, hand-pollinate flowers yourself.

    More importantly, it helps you understand what the plant is doing and why.

    Once you begin recognising these natural signals, you’ll rely less on the dates printed on seed packets and more on what your own plants are telling you. Growing guides are invaluable, but your garden will always be the best guide to what’s happening in your particular conditions.

    Become Curious About Successes

    Most of us pay close attention when things go wrong.

    We notice:

    • The slug damage.
    • The yellowing leaves.
    • The failed germination.

    But how often do we stop to investigate success?

    Imagine one lettuce survives untouched while the others are reduced to lacework by slugs.

    Do we ask:

    • Was it growing in a slightly drier position?
    • Was it closer to a path?
    • Did it happen to be planted near chives, spring onions, garlic, or another strongly scented plant?
    • Was it simply the first plant the slugs overlooked?

    You may never know for certain, but curiosity is valuable. Curiosity is one of the best gardening tools you can develop. Today’s observation often becomes next year’s success.

    Notice the Patterns in Your Garden

    Every garden develops patterns:

    • The corner that stays damp after rain.
    • The bed that warms up first in spring.
    • The spot where carrots always seem happier.
    • The area where slugs appear after every wet evening.
    • The plants that dry out first during warm weather.
    • The flowers that bees visit most often.

    These patterns become visible only when you slow down enough to see them, and once you do, they can transform how you garden.

    Keeping a small notebook and jotting things down will help.

    Jot down things like:

    • First potato flowers
    • First ripe tomato
    • Areas affected by slugs
    • Crops that performed well
    • Places where plants struggled
    • Unexpected successes

    A few notes this year can make planning next year’s garden far easier.

    Pay Attention to Pests and Problems

    Observing pests in particular is one of the best ways to catch problems early.

    Look for:

    • Small nibbles in lettuce leaves
    • Aphids gathering on soft new growth
    • Whitefly on brassicas
    • Slug trails on damp mornings
    • Powdery mildew on courgettes later in the season
    • Yellowing leaves that spread rather than remain isolated

    Catching an issue early is often easier than solving a major problem later. But the goal isn’t to become anxious or inspect every leaf obsessively. It’s simply to become familiar with what is normal in your garden.

    Notice the Wildlife Too

    Some of the most useful observations have nothing to do with vegetables. Pay attention to the wildlife as well. Bees, hoverflies, ladybirds and birds all tell you something about the health of your garden. A productive vegetable patch isn’t just full of plants; it’s a thriving ecosystem.

    It’s a community of living things interacting with one another. The more you notice those relationships, the more fascinating growing food becomes.

    Your Garden This Year Is Planning Next Year’s Garden

    Every season leaves behind valuable information. The tomatoes that thrived in one bed, the brassicas that struggled in another, the courgette that needed watering more often than you expected – all of these are quietly helping you plan next year’s garden.

    The most experienced gardeners aren’t necessarily those with the biggest gardens or the longest list of qualifications. They’re often the people who’ve simply learnt to notice more.

    Your garden is quietly teaching you how to grow next year’s crops. All you have to do is pay attention.

    Final Thoughts

    Gardening has a wonderful way of reminding us that not every problem needs an immediate solution. Sometimes the best thing we can do is pause, watch, and learn.

    Every healthy plant, every failed crop, every visiting bee and every nibbled leaf is giving you information. The more attention you pay, the more your confidence will grow. Not because you’ve memorised every gardening rule, but because you’ve learnt to understand your garden.

    So the next time you head outside, leave yourself five minutes before picking up the watering can. Walk slowly, look closely, and let your garden tell its story. You might be surprised by just how much it tells you.

    If you want a good video on the topic of observing your growing space, Huw Richards has some useful tips here: Observe and Interact | Ultimate Gardening Skills Series. It’s an older vid, but still relevant.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful, hit the like button and consider subscribing to the Solitaire Gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    More helpful Veg growing blogs see below

    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening and greater self-sufficiency, please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching – Mindset and Motivation. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or are struggling with motivation, then coaching may be for you. I can help you reach your gardening goals, keeping you motivated and help you plan your self-sufficiency dream your way!

  • Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips

    Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips

    A garden scene featuring lush green zucchini plants with various zucchinis visible among the leaves. An overlay text reads 'I'll hide in plain sight' with an arrow pointing to a hidden zucchini.

    If you’ve ever gone out to admire your courgette/zucchini plants, spotted a perfectly sized fruit, and thought, ‘I’ll pick that tomorrow’. You excitedly wander into the garden the next day, only to discover what appears to be a small submarine lurking under the leaves. You’re not alone. Trust me, I’ve been growing Courgettes/Zucchini for years, and this still happens to me more times than I would like to admit.

    One of the biggest surprises for new gardeners is just how quickly courgettes grow. They seem to spend weeks doing very little and then suddenly decide it’s time to produce more food than any sensible household could possibly eat. The good news is that this means you’re doing something right. The slightly less good news is that if you don’t keep an eye on them, those lovely little courgettes/zucchinis can quickly become full-sized monster marrows.

    Below, we’ll explore how you can avoid this pesky perennial problem with actionable steps.

    From here on in, I’m going to use the term courgette – apologies to folk who use the term zucchini, but here in the UK we call them courgettes, so it’s just a more natural term for me to use.

    When Should You Harvest a Courgette?

    Most courgettes are best harvested when they are around 6–8 inches long (15–20 cm). At this size, the flesh is tender, the skin is soft, and the flavour is arguably at its best. Smaller courgettes are often sweeter and more delicate than larger ones.

    The mistake many new gardeners make is waiting for them to get bigger because bigger feels like better value. In reality, once a courgette is beyond about 10 inches long (25 cm), the seeds begin to develop, the skin thickens, and the texture becomes less appealing.

    That’s not to say larger courgettes are unusable. They can still be grated into cakes, soups, chutneys, and pasta sauces. But if you’re after the classic tender courgette, about 6-8 inches is the perfect size.

    The Secret to More Courgettes

    Here’s a useful trick that newer gardeners should be aware of: picking courgettes regularly actually encourages the plant to produce more fruit.

    The plant’s goal is to mature its fruit and produce seed. If you keep harvesting, the plant thinks it hasn’t finished its job yet and continues producing fresh flowers and new courgettes. Leave several fruits to mature into marrows, and the plant may slow down production considerably.

    Think of harvesting as sending the plant a message: ‘More please!’

    A Few Harvesting Tips

    • Check plants every day during warm weather.
    • Harvest when fruits are 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) long.
    • Use a sharp knife or secateurs rather than pulling fruits off by hand.
    • Cut the stem cleanly about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the fruit.
    • Lift leaves gently when checking plants – courgettes are experts at hiding enormous fruits underneath.

    Many gardeners joke that courgettes don’t grow overnight. They grow when you’re not looking 🫣

    Watering Matters More Than You Might Think

    Courgettes are thirsty plants. Their large leaves lose a lot of moisture, particularly during warm summer weather.

    Aim to water deeply once or twice a week rather than giving little daily sprinkles. During hot spells with temperatures above 25°C (77°F), you may need to water more frequently, especially if plants are growing in containers.

    Try to water around the base of the plant rather than over the leaves. This helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases and ensures water reaches the roots where it’s needed most.

    For more on the concept of ‘deep watering you can read more here Unlock Healthy Growth with Deep Watering Techniques

    A layer of compost or mulch (such as dried leaves, fine wood chips, etc.) around the plant can also help retain moisture and reduce watering needs.

    What If The Leaves Start Looking Papery?

    One thing that often worries new gardeners is when older leaves begin to look dry, rough, or papery.

    In most cases, this is completely normal. Courgette plants produce huge leaves, and as the season progresses, some of the oldest ones naturally age and die back.

    However, papery leaves can sometimes indicate:

    • A lack of water during hot weather
    • Wind scorch
    • Natural ageing of older foliage
    • Powdery mildew later in the season

    If only a few older leaves are affected and the rest of the plant looks healthy, there’s usually no cause for concern. Just remove badly damaged leaves to improve airflow around the plant. In fact, it’s often a good idea to remove some of the lower leaves to help with airflow. Having said that, I wouldn’t lose any sleep over the thinning of leaves. If the plant looks healthy, it should be fine.

    If you notice a white powdery coating developing on leaves, this is often powdery mildew. Improving airflow, watering consistently, and removing the worst-affected leaves can help slow its spread.

    Common Problems and Simple Fixes

    Lots of Flowers But No Courgettes

    Don’t panic. Male flowers appear first and don’t produce fruit. Female flowers arrive shortly afterwards and can be identified by the tiny swelling behind the flower

    Fruits Rotting While Still Small

    This is often caused by poor pollination. Encourage pollinators into the garden by growing flowers nearby, or try hand-pollinating. You can hand-pollinate by using a small paintbrush.

    If you want more information on hand-pollinating courgettes, here are links to a couple of good, easy-to-follow YouTube vids. These will give you more confidence and show you exactly what steps to take to hand-pollinate. Why Aren’t My Squashes Fruiting? Boost pollination of squash, zucchini/courgettes & pumpkins (had pollinating comes in at 5 mins in this vid – but it’s well worth watching the whole thing). This short is also very helpful How to pollinate courgettes!

    Wilted Leaves During the Day

    Courgettes often wilt temporarily in hot sunshine, even when the soil is moist. Check again in the evening before assuming they need water.

    Slugs Attacking Young Plants

    Mature courgettes usually cope well, but younger plants can be vulnerable. Barriers, regular checks, and encouraging natural predators can all help.

    If you’re planting direct, use a closh or netting until the plant is big enough to cope with little beasty slugs.

    If you start seeds in a pot or module tray, pot on into a larger pot until the plant is about 5 – 6 inches tall before transferring to its final growing space. You want a nice, strong, healthy plant before planting out.

    Help! I Have Too Many Courgettes

    This is a surprisingly common problem and one I have almost every year.

    If your plant is producing more than you can eat, consider:

    • Freezing grated courgette
    • Making soup
    • Baking courgette cake
    • Adding it to pasta sauces
    • Making chutney
    • Giving some away to friends, neighbours, or unsuspecting relatives

    You’ll quickly discover that growing courgettes often turns into a community project.

    Although you will be a wee bit late to plant start courgette seeds

    Embrace the Occasional Marrow

    Despite all the jokes, there’s nothing wrong with growing a marrow 😊 In fact, many gardeners deliberately leave one or two fruits on the plant each year to mature into marvellous marrows. These are excellent stuffed, baked, or turned into chutney.

    The important thing is understanding the difference. If you want tender courgettes, harvest little and often. If you want marrows, let them keep growing.

    Either way, few vegetables are as productive, rewarding, or enthusiastic as the humble courgette. Just don’t be surprised if tomorrow’s harvest is twice the size of today’s.

    Final Thoughts

    If your courgettes occasionally get away from you, don’t worry – you’ve joined a very large club of gardeners who’ve discovered a giant fruit lurking under the leaves a week too late. Every oversized courgette is proof that your plant is healthy and productive – so chalk that up as a win.

    Harvest little and often if you can, embrace the occasional marrow if you can’t, and remember: there are far worse gardening problems to have than an abundance of homegrown food. Happy harvesting – and don’t forget to check under those leaves!

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful, hit the like button and consider subscribing to the Solitaire Gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening and greater self-sufficiency, please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching – Mindset and Motivation. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or are struggling with motivation, then coaching may be for you. I can help you reach your gardening goals, keeping you motivated and helping you plan your self-sufficiency dream your way!

  • Top Vegetables to Sow in June for a Bountiful Harvest

    Top Vegetables to Sow in June for a Bountiful Harvest

    A lush garden with various plants and vegetables, surrounded by a wooden fence and a trellis in the background.

    June is a surprisingly good month for sowing vegetables, particularly for crops that enjoy warmer soil and longer daylight hours. While early spring often gets most of the attention, many heat-loving plants actually establish faster and more reliably once the weather and the soil has warmed. In the UK and other temperate climates, June sowings can still provide generous harvests later in summer and well into autumn.

    This is also one of the easiest times for newer gardeners to sow seeds directly into the soil outdoors. Germination is usually quicker, seedlings grow away faster, and there’s less need for heated propagators, grow lights, or balancing trays on windowsills. So if your growing season got off to a slow start, don’t worry, there’s still plenty of time to fill beds, containers, and tubs with healthy, productive vegetables.

    Before we dive in, a word of warning for those with a greenhouse or polytunnel. Last week in the UK it was very hot with many undercover growing areas reaching 40 °C (104 °F) plus. These daytime temps can be quite distressing for seeds, making germination problematic. Seeds generally don’t do well in sizzling soil temperatures. If this is the case for you, It’s worth considering an alternative spot for seed sowing during very hot periods.

    So let’s get into 5 veg seeds you might like to sow in June, some of which will also grow perfectly well in large pots or containers.

    PUMPKINS

    Pumpkins can still be started in early June, particularly in milder parts of the UK and other temperate climates. While giant pumpkins may need a longer season, many smaller and medium-sized varieties grow perfectly well from early June sowings.

    Pumpkins are part of the wide-ranging Cucurbitaceae family. More specifically, they are classified under the genus Cucurbita. Squashes, courgettes/zucchini and butternut squash are also part of this genus. This whole family of plants likes heat and tend to spread out. They require lots of space unless you train them to grow vertically.

    Growing Conditions

    • Sow in rich, fertile soil with plenty of organic matter
    • Ideal temperature: 18–30°C (65–86°F)
    • Sow seeds 1 inch deep (2.5 cm)
    • Plant in a sunny, sheltered position

    Containers?

    It is possible to grow pumpkins in pots – but choose a large container at least 18–24 inches wide (45–60 cm) and keep plants well fed and watered. Pots tend to dry out more quickly, so regular ‘deep watering’ is important. For more on ‘deep watering’, see her Unlock Healthy Growth with Deep Watering Techniques

    Pumpkins are also hungry plants, so adding compost or well-rotted manure before planting will make a noticeable difference to growth and fruit production. In fact, if you have a compost pile that’s not quite ready, it might be the ideal environment to grow pumpkins.

    TURNIPS

    Turnips, bizarrely, are part of the Mustard family (Brassicaceae). I think they are one of the most versatile and underrated vegetables in the garden. A June sowing of turnips can yield a crop of lovely, tender roots for late summer and early autumn.

    They don’t take up much space, and the leaves can be used in a similar way to spinach. So really, you get two crops for the price of one – what’s not to like?

    I know lots of folk, especially in the UK, who view the humble turnip as nothing more than ‘animal feed’. But trust me, a young, sweet roasted turnip with Sunday dinner or in a pan roast with other root veg is an absolute delight.

    Growing Conditions

    • Prefers cooler growing conditions
    • Ideal temperature: 10–18°C (50–65°F)
    • Sow seeds ½ inch deep (1 cm)
    • Thin seedlings carefully for decent-sized roots

    As ever, I try not to thin seeds – I can’t bear ditching them. I try and sow each individual seeds at the allotted packet spacing. However, that’s just my personal preference – you do what works best for you.

    Germination & Harvest

    • Germinates in around 7–10 days
    • Ready in roughly 6–10 weeks

    Containers?

    Turnips can be planted in containers or tubs, but make sure the container is fairly deep. These tasty little all-rounders can have taproots up to 30 inches (76 cm) long, so they need plenty of depth.

    SPRING ONIONS (SCALLIONS)

    Spring onions are fast, satisfying, and ideal for squeezing into spare gaps around the garden. They are extremely versatile in the kitchen, and you can use both the white bulb and the green stalk

    Spring Onions belong to the Amaryllidaceae family – specifically Allium Cepa. This broad family and includes garlic, shallots and chives.

    These are brilliant for small-space gardeners because they take up very little room.

    Growing Conditions

    • Sow directly outdoors
    • Ideal temperature: 10–25°C (50–77°F)
    • Sow thinly at around ½ inch deep (1 cm)
    • Keep watered during dry weather

    Germination & Harvest

    • Germinates in 7–14 days
    • Harvest in roughly 8–10 weeks

    Very suitable for containers and troughs.

    Containers?

    Spring onions are perfect for containers; just make sure the soil in your pots doesn’t dry out. Keep the soil moist (not soaking), and they will be just fine in containers with reasonable spacing.

    KALE (INCLUDING BLACK KALE/CAVOLO NERO)

    Kale is one of the most rewarding crops you can sow in June, particularly because it can continue producing well into autumn and even through winter in milder areas. Black kale, often sold as Cavolo Nero, is especially popular for its dark, crinkled leaves and excellent flavour once the weather cools slightly.

    Kale is another plant belonging to the Brassicaceae family.

    June is an excellent time to sow kale directly outdoors as it often produces sturdier plants with less fuss than earlier indoor sowings. A June sowing can also help avoid some of the early spring pests.

    When harvesting, pick the outside lower leaves first; it will encourage the plant to keep producing for months.

    Growing Conditions

    • Sow directly into prepared soil or raised beds
    • Ideal temperature: 10–24°C (50–75°F)
    • Sow seeds around ½ inch deep (1–1.5 cm)
    • Thin seedlings to around 18 inches apart (45 cm) once established
    • Prefers fertile soil with good moisture retention

    Germination & Harvest

    • Germinates in roughly 5–10 days
    • Baby leaves can be harvested in around 30 days
    • Mature leaves are usually ready in 8–12 weeks

    Containers?

    Yes, kale grows surprisingly well in large tubs or deep containers, particularly the compact varieties. Choose containers at least 12 inches deep (30 cm) and keep plants well watered during dry spells.

    SWEDE (RUTABAGA)

    Swede is one of those vegetables that quietly rewards patient gardeners. Sow direct in June, and it will have plenty of time to develop, ready for harvest through the winter months. Swede benefits from maturing slowly and is well-suited to the UK and generally more temporated growing conditions.

    Swede, along with Turnips (see above) are a part of the Brassicaceae family, commonly known as cruciferous vegetables. They include broccoli, sprouts, kale and cauliflower, etc.

    Young swede seedlings can attract flea beetles and cabbage root fly, so covering newly sown rows with fine mesh or fleece can help plants establish more successfully. Cooler autumn weather also tends to improve the flavour, making roots sweeter and less woody.

    Growing Conditions:

    • Best sown directly outdoors where it is to grow
    • Ideal temperature: 8–20°C (46–68°F)
    • Sow seeds around ½ inch deep (1–1.5 cm)
    • Space rows around 18 inches apart (45 cm)
    • Thin seedlings to roughly 8 inches apart (20 cm)

    Swedes prefer fertile, moisture-retentive soil and grow best when watered consistently during dry periods.

    Germination & Harvest:

    • Germinates in around 7–14 days
    • Harvest from roughly 12–16 weeks after sowing
    • Can often remain in the ground well into winter in milder areas

    Containers?

    Possible, but not ideal unless using a very deep container. If growing in tubs, choose one at least 16 inches deep (40 cm) to allow good root development.

    OTHER VEGETABLES YOU CAN STILL SOW IN JUNE

    If you still have room, June is also a good time to sow:

    • French beans
    • Runner beans
    • Carrots
    • Courgettes (zucchini)
    • Peas
    • Radishes
    • Pak choi
    • Florence fennel

    Many herbs can also be sown in June, such as basil, coriander (cilantro), dill, and parsley. If you haven’t started sowing herbs yet, there is still time – sow a few seeds every 1-2 weeks through June for a good continuous supply.

    Final Thoughts

    June gardening often feels calmer than the frenetic rush of early spring. So if you haven’t started yet, or if earlier sowings didn’t go to plan, there is still plenty of time to grow productive, delicious food this season.

    Start with a few things you genuinely enjoy eating, keep watering simple and consistent during dry spells, and don’t overcomplicate it. A handful of well-cared-for plants will almost always bring more satisfaction than trays and trays of seedlings that become overwhelming.

    Remember – if you’re feeling behind, don’t panic. Garden centres are full of healthy plug plants and young vegetable plants at this time of year, and many crops catch up remarkably quickly once planted into warm soil. Don’t let anyone tell you that if you don’t grow from seed, you are not a proper gardener. Gardening is about enjoyment, and what fits with your lifestyle. So you do you!

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful, please consider subscribing to the Solitaire Gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    For more content, see below:

    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening and greater self-sufficiency, please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching – Mindset and Motivation. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or are struggling with motivation, then coaching may be for you. I can help you reach your gardening goals, keeping you motivated and helping you plan your self-sufficiency dream your way!

  • Five Vegetables to Sow in May for New Gardeners

    A vibrant vegetable garden with raised beds filled with various plants, surrounded by colorful flowers, under a sunny sky with a few birds flying.

    May might be one of the most exciting months in the gardening calendar. The soil is warming up, the risk of frost is fading, and there’s a wide range of crops you can sow directly outdoors or start undercover. For new gardeners, it’s the perfect time to build momentum and fill your growing space with reliable, productive vegetables. Below are five excellent crops to sow in May, along with everything you need to know to grow them successfully.

    My advice, as always, is to start slowly – If you are anything like me, you want to plant everything, but trust me when I say, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. So start small, build your skills and enjoy your success.

    Carrotts

    Carrots are best sown directly into the ground, as they dislike being transplanted. You might try varieties such as ‘Early Nantes’, ‘Chatenay’ or ‘Autumn King’

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds outdoors in shallow drills/lines about ½ inch (1–1.5 cm) deep
    • Space rows 12 inches (30 cm) apart
    • Ideal soil temperature: 10–18°C (50–65°F)

    Because carrot seeds are teeny tiny most people sow and then ‘thin out’. ‘Thinning out’ just means once the seedlings are about an inch or so high, you take some of them out, so those left have space to grow. I can never quite bring myself to ditch the crowded seedlings. So I take the time to space each seed about 2-3 inches apart. It’s a faff, but I think it’s worth it.

    Conditions:

    • Light, stone-free soil is essential for straight roots
    • Keep soil consistently moist during germination (10–21 days)

    Care:

    • Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding if needed
    • Water regularly to prevent roots from becoming tough
    • Keep as weed-free as possible

    Containers/raised beds:

    • They grow well in deep containers (at least 12 inches / 30 cm)
    • Easily grown in raised beds

    Pests:

    • Carrot root fly

    Protection tips:

    • Cover crops with fine mesh or fleece to block egg-laying flies
    • Avoid thinning seedlings on windy days (this releases scents which carrot root fly adore)
    • Grow in raised beds or containers where the risk of root fly is lower

    Harvest:

    • Ready in 8–12 weeks, depending on variety (longer varieties may take a little more time to mature)
    • Harvest when roots reach usable size

    French Beans (Dwarf or Climbing)

    French beans are fast-growing and perfect for May sowing, but wait until the risk of frost has passed. These can be sown direct or under cover to get them started, then planted out to their final position.

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds 1 inch deep (2.5 cm)
    • Space 6 inches apart (15 cm) for dwarf varieties
    • Ideal temperature: 15–25°C (59–77°F)

    Conditions:

    • Warm, sunny position
    • Well-drained soil

    Indoor option:

    • Can be started indoors in pots and planted out after 3–4 weeks
    • Sow one or two seeds at the most into a small pot
    • Start on a sunny windowsill, in a greenhouse, or in a raised bed with a glass cover. A raised bed with a clear plastic hoop cover will be fine as long as there is some airflow

    Care:

    • Water regularly, especially during flowering
    • Provide support for climbing varieties
    • Put the supports in when you plant to avoid damaging the roots when the plant is established

    Containers/raised beds:

    • Dwarf beans grow well in containers
    • Climbing beans suit raised beds with supports

    Pests:

    • Slugs (young plants)
    • Aphids

    Protection tips:

    • Use slug barriers or wildlife-friendly pellets when plants are young
    • Check plants regularly and remove aphids by hand or with a water spray
    • Encourage beneficial insects like ladybirds

    I’d love to say I have solved the problem of slugs in my garden – but they are seanky little blighters. My best advice is to protect the plant as much as possible. I tend to start most beans in the greenhouse and plant out when they are a good size. When plants are a little larger, they’re less vulnerable and more robust. I also protect them with a closh – nothing fancy, just a 5lt clear plastic water bottle cut in half with some holes for airflow. The RHS website has some helpful tips and tricks for slugs, which you can read here RHS slug advice

    Harvest:

    • Pick regularly when pods are young and tender to encourage more production

    Salad Lettuce

    Lettuce is ideal for succession sowing, giving continuous harvests through summer. Sow a few seeds every couple of weeks for a good supply. Lettuce comes in four main categories: crisphead, butterhead, romaine, and loose leaf. Each has its own distinctive flavour. My favourite is a loose leaf and romaine: loose leaf is versatile in salads and sarnies, while the slight bitterness of the romaine varieties gives an interesting twist.

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds thinly at ¼ inch deep (0.5 cm)
    • Space rows 12 inches (30 cm) apart
    • Ideal temperature: 10–20°C (50–68°F)

    Conditions:

    • Prefers cooler conditions and partial shade in warmer weather
    • In hot weather, lettuce tends to bolt – once the plant has bolted, the leaves can become slightly bitter

    Indoor option:

    • Can be started in trays or modules and transplanted
    • A sunny windowsill will be fine – make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely

    Potting on:

    • Transplant when seedlings are large enough to handle
    • Keep young plants protected by covering them with a cloche, or by using a simple pot barrier. This can be made by cutting the bottom off a large plastic plant pot and placing it over the seedling once it’s planted in the ground. This helps shield the plant from pests like slugs while it gets established. For even extra protection, pop some copper tape around the pot.

    Don’t be too hasty to get your lettuce in the ground. Again, a strong, slightly larger plant will fare better than a tender, young seedling.

    Care:

    • Keep soil consistently moist
    • Avoid letting plants dry out, as this can trigger bolting

    Containers/raised beds:

    • Perfect for pots, window boxes, and raised beds

    Pests:

    • Slugs and snails
    • Aphids

    Protection tips:

    • Use copper tape, barriers, or evening checks for slugs and snails
    • Grow in raised containers to reduce slug damage
    • Spray aphids off with water or use a mild soapy solution

    Rehoming slugs and snails at dusk is probably one of the most effective ways to control the slug and snail population. It’s messy and a bit gross, but it’s worth the effort.

    Harvest:

    • Pick outer leaves as needed or harvest whole heads

    Courgettes (Zucchini)

    Courgettes are productive and perfect for sowing in May. My last blog was focused on courgettes – but they are worth mentioning again because they are such prolific producers. Just two or three plants will see you through the summer months. If you want a deeper dive into growing courgettes/zucchini, see here How to Grow Courgettes: A Simple Step-by-Step

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds 1 inch deep (2.5 cm)
    • Space plants 36 inches apart (90 cm / 3 feet)
    • Ideal temperature: 18–24°C (65–75°F)

    Indoor option:

    • Start indoors earlier, or sow outdoors in May

    Conditions:

    • Warm, sunny position
    • Rich, fertile soil – use plenty of compost and mulch around the base, especially if you’re growing vertically

    Care:

    • Water deeply and regularly
    • Feed weekly once flowering begins – use a comfrey or nettle tea

    Containers/raised beds:

    Pests:

    • Slugs (young plants)
    • Aphids

    Protection tips:

    • Protect young plants with cloches or fleece early on
    • Use slug barriers until plants are established
    • Rinse off aphids or pinch out heavily affected tips

    Harvest:

    • Pick when fruits are 6–8 inches long (15–20 cm)
    • Harvest frequently to encourage more fruit

    Beetroot

    Beetroot is easy to grow and ideal for sowing directly outdoors, but equally happy when started under cover. I prefer the non-red varieties, such as chioggia or Golden Burpees.

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds 1 inch deep (2.5 cm)
    • Space rows 12 inches (30 cm) apart
    • Ideal temperature: 10–20°C (50–68°F)
    • Beet seeds are easy to handle, so pop one or two seeds per module if starting indoors.

    If starting seeds outside, you can plant two or even three seeds quite close together; as the roots develop, they will push each other apart. This sometimes results in slightly smaller beets, but they are fabulous for roasting and pickling.

    You can do the same with the beet seeds you start in modules or pots. When you plant them out, you can pop them in the ground together or gently tease them apart to plant separately if you wish.

    Conditions:

    • Well-drained soil in a sunny or lightly shaded spot

    Care:

    • Water regularly for even root development
    • Keep weed-free

    Containers/raised beds:

    • Suitable for containers at least 10 inches (25 cm) deep

    Pests:

    • Leaf miners – Leaf miners are small insect larvae that live inside leaves, creating pale, winding tunnels as they feed between the layers of the leaf (don’t panic!)
    • Slugs

    Protection tips:

    • Leaf miner – Remove affected leaves quickly to prevent the spread of leaf miners. Wash the leaves with soapy water every couple of days until the problem resolves. I find it easier to apply this soapy water solution with a spray bottle.
    • Use netting if infestations are persistent
    • Protect young plants from slugs with barriers or regular checks

    Harvest:

    • Harvest when roots reach golf ball to tennis ball size
    • Leaves can also be eaten when young, much like spinach.

    Final Thoughts

    May is a generous month for sowing, offering warm soil and long daylight hours that help seeds germinate quickly and plants establish strongly. Whether you’re sowing directly into the ground, starting seeds in trays, or growing in containers, the key to success is consistent watering, good spacing, and keeping a close eye on young plants as they establish.

    For new gardeners in the UK and other temperate climates, these five vegetables offer a reliable and high-yielding place to start. With just a little care and attention, you’ll be well on your way to a heap of healthy veg you can use throughout the summer months or preserve for later.

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    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening and greater self-sufficiency, please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching – Mindset and Motivation. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or are struggling with motivation, then coaching may be for you. I can help you reach your gardening goals, keeping you motivated and helping you plan your self-sufficiency dream your way!

  • Herb Seeds to Sow Indoors in Late Winter

    Herb Seeds to Sow Indoors in Late Winter

    A sunny outdoor scene featuring several potted plants on a round table. The plants include basil and a small shrub on the table, with rosemary and sage plants in orange pots beside them, set against a green background with soft clouds.

    Most people buy herbs as small potted plants from a garden centre, nursery or even a supermarket. However, with a little patience you can sow your own herb seeds indoors in late January or February for a fraction of the cost.

    Home grown herbs will make you wonder why you ever bought bunches of sad looking herbs wrapped in plastic from the supermarket. Growing herbs from seed at home will not only save you money, it will also result in less waste, and give you an abundance of garden aromatics you can preserve for longer term storage.

    The post below is written with newer gardeners in mind and focuses on herbs that are useful in everyday cooking, reliable to start indoors, and happy in a UK climate. We will look at basil, rosemary, thyme, and sage, covering how to sow, what conditions they need to germinate, and how to care for each plant through to maturity.

    We will refer to a propagator which is clear (plastic or glass) cover for seed trays or pots that trap warmth and humidity to help germination. You can also get heated versions which provide gentle bottom heat. Heated propagators are great, but don’t fret if you don’t have one. Popping your seed pot or module tray in a clear plastic bag (a food zip lock bag is fine) and keeping it on a sunny window sill should suffice. Many seeds like to soil warmer at this time of year, so bring your seed compost indoors a few days before planting. This will allow the compost to warm up a bit and result in happier seeds.

    You’ll also see references to succession sowing (sowing small batches at intervals so you always have fresh plants coming along) and transplanting (moving plants on into larger pots or outside once conditions are right). Both are simple, practical techniques that quickly become second nature.

    General Setup for late winter Sowing

    Before we dive into individual herbs, it’s worth getting the basics right.

    You will need:

    • Seed trays or small pots (2–3 in / 5–7.5 cm) deep
    • Multi‑purpose compost or seed compost
    • A warm sunny windowsill
    • Clear plastic bags or a clear lid (for humidity) or heated propogator

    Light & warmth: In January/February, light levels are low. A bright windowsill is ideal. Most herbs germinate best at approximately 10 –21°C. (60–70°F). The best advice for seed germination temperatures will be written on each seed packet.

    Watering: Keep compost damp, not wet. Overwatering is the quickest way to lose seedlings. Seeds can get mouldy if they are too wet.

    Humidity trick: For slow or fussy germinators, loosely place a clear plastic bag over the pot or seed tray to trap humidity. Remove it as soon as seedlings appear. This is a good idea for most seeds started indoors at this time of year such as chillies or aubergines (Eggplant). Unless of course you have a heated propagator.

    See here for seeds to sow in late January What Vegetable Seeds to Sow in Late January: A planting Guide for Beginners

    Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Genovese – classic Italian basil, excellent for pesto
    • Sweet Green – reliable and fast growing (high notes of mint & clove)
    • Greek (Bush) Basil – compact, ideal for windowsills (smaller leaves – strong flavour)

    How to sow

    • Sow seeds ¼ in (0.5 cm) deep
    • Space seeds about 1 in (2.5 cm) apart
    • Lightly cover and gently water

    Basil needs warmth to germinate, ideally 18–24°C. (65–75°F) A plastic bag or propagator lid is very helpful here.

    Germination

    • Time: 5–10 days
    • Remove plastic cover as soon as seedlings emerge

    Growth and repotting

    Basil grows quickly. Once seedlings have 2–3 true leaves, thin them out or pot on into 4–5 in (10–12.5 cm) pots. Basil dislikes having cramped roots.

    True leaves are the first set of leaves that appear after the initial seed leaves. The true leaves will look the same as the leaves on a mature plant. The seed leaves will show first and are generally smaller. If you are unsure check with the picture on your seed packet or do a quick internet search. You can also wait until you have more than 2 true leaves. It won’t be the end of the world if you don’t pot on until you have 3 or 4 leaves.

    If you have 3 or 4 true leaves before it’s time to plant outside then just transplant to a slightly larger pot until it’s time to plant out – around April/May or after your last frost date.

    Succession sowing

    Highly recommended. Sow a new batch every 3 – 4 weeks to ensure a constant supply.

    Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)

    Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean, where it grows in poor, well‑drained soils and plenty of sun. Understanding this makes its preferences much easier to meet indoors.

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Common Rosemary – hardy and reliable
    • Miss Jessopp’s Upright – neat growth, good for pots
    • Tuscan Blue – strong flavour, vigorous once mature

    How to sow

    • Sow seeds on the surface and lightly cover with compost
    • Use small pots rather than trays

    Rosemary prefers slightly cooler conditions than basil, around 15–18°C (60–65°F)

    Germination

    • Time: 14–28 days (sometimes longer, so be patient)
    • A plastic bag helps retain humidity, but sure there is some ventilation.

    Growth and repotting

    Rosemary grows slowly. Seedlings can stay in their original pots for several months. Repot only when roots clearly fill the pot.

    Ongoing care

    • Plenty of sunlight
    • Allow compost to dry slightly between watering. Rosemary doesn’t like soggy roots.
    • Avoid high humidity once established, so remove any plastic bag covers

    Succession sowing

    Germination can be uneven, so sowing a second pot as backup is sensible.

    Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

    Thyme also originates from the Mediterranean region, thriving in sunny, dry conditions. This heritage explains why it prefers good drainage and dislikes being overwatered.

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Common Thyme – versatile and hardy
    • Lemon Thyme – fresh citrus flavour
    • English Thyme – reliable for cooking

    How to sow

    • Sow on the surface
    • Press seeds gently into compost
    • Don’t bury the seed too deeply into the compost

    Germination

    • Time: 10–21 days
    • Best temperature: 15–21°C (60–70°F)
    • Plastic bag useful until germination, once the seeds show a few millimetres above the soil, change the plastic bag for a propagator lid.

    Remember if you don’t have a propagator lid you can cut the flat end from a clear plastic water bottle – poke holes in the remainder of the bottle, and remove the lid for airflow, then place that over your seedling pot.

    Clear plastic bottle placed upside down in soil, with a coiled hose attached, surrounded by a wire fence.

    Growth and repotting

    Thyme stays small and doesn’t mind being slightly root‑bound. Pot on only when growth slows noticeably.

    Ongoing care

    • Sunlight light is essential
    • Water sparingly
    • Trim lightly to encourage bushiness

    Succession sowing

    Resow if germination is patchy.

    Sage (Salvia officinalis)

    Sage is native to the Mediterranean and Balkan regions, where it grows as a hardy, shrubby perennial. It adapts well to UK and cooler climate well once established.

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Common Sage – classic culinary variety
    • Broad‑Leaved Sage – excellent flavour
    • Purple Sage – ornamental and edible

    How to sow

    • Sow seeds ¼ in (0.5 cm) deep
    • Space well, as seedlings grow steadily

    Germination

    • Time: 10–21 days
    • Temperature: 15–21°C (60–70°F)
    • Plastic bag helpful in early stages

    Growth and repotting

    Sage seedlings are sturdy. Pot on once roots fill the container. Avoid oversized pots early on as you risk over watering. Sage can be potted on a number of times into sequentially larger pots as the plant develops. Just be careful you don’t damage the roots when repotting – gently does it!

    Ongoing care

    • Plenty of light
    • Moderate watering
    • Good air circulation prevents mildew

    Succession sowing

    Optional. Sage is long‑lived, so one or two healthy plants are usually enough.

    When to Move Herbs Outdoors

    From late April to May, herbs can be hardened off and moved outside once frost risk has passed. Start by placing them outdoors for a few hours a day, gradually increasing exposure.

    When I first plant outside I make sure the new plant is protected form slugs, snails and other beasties until it becomes more established. I will generally use little closh or some netting.

    Final Thoughts

    Growing herbs indoors in January is about small steps and steady progress. Not every seed will germinate, and that’s normal. Succession sowing, patience, and observation are the to turning those tiny seeds into a fruitful herb bed that can be utilised in any kitchen or medicinal cabinet.

    Let me know in the comments what your favourite herbs are in the garden.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram

    Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation
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    If you've ever gone out to admire your courgette/zucchini plants, spotted a perfectly sized fruit, and thought, 'I'll pick that tomorrow'. You excitedly wander …

    This post encourages beginners to grow herbs indoors from seed in late winter, focusing on basil, rosemary, thyme, and sage. It outlines sowing techniques, ideal conditions for germination, and ongoing care. Succession sowing is recommended for a continuous supply. Growing your own herbs saves money and reduces waste while enhancing culinary experiences.

  • What Vegetable Seeds to Sow in Late January: A planting Guide for Beginners

    A person gardening indoors in a greenhouse during winter, surrounded by snow. They are sowing seeds in a tray.

    January in the UK is very much a “behind the scenes” gardening month, but there is plenty you can be getting on with if you want to take the chance. With soil cold, wet and often frozen, most vegetable seeds need significant protection, warmth and good light to get going. With last frost dates in the UK falling somewhere between late April and late May depending on region, anything sown now will have to spend a good while indoors or undercover before they can be planted out. The key is to match each crop to the right conditions: warmth for germination, steady moisture, and enough light to prevent weak, leggy growth.

    In this blog we will look at what seeds you might want to start in January and the conditions needed to keep them healthy until planting out time. Before we start, I do need to say that planting in January is not essential and you shouldn’t feel pushed into planting seeds early. You have plenty of time and it’s not the end of the world if you wait a few more weeks or even a month or so. You do you 😊

    And don’t forget to always label you seeds whatever you are planting see ‘Labelling: simple but vital ‘ for guidance on labelling your sowings.

    Chillies, sweet peppers and aubergines can be sow early as they need a long growing season. Sow seeds about ¼ inch (0.5 cm) deep in small modules or seed trays filled with fine, free-draining compost. They germinate best at 21–27°C, (70–80°F) so make sure the seeds have a heat mat, an airing cupboard or warm shelf ideal until shoots appear, this is usually in 7–14 days. Once you have visible shoots move them into bright light. A south-facing windowsill or under grow lights will be fine. Keep compost just moist rather than wet. These plants will stay indoors until after the last frost and are usually planted outside or into an unheated greenhouse in late May or even early June, once nights stay above 10°C (50°F). This means your plants will need to stay indoors for some time, so will need attention to ensure they don’t get cold or leggy. From the first shoots to outside ready I generally wrap mine in some fleece at night as the temperature in the house drops overnight. During the day I keep I keep a them under a plastic closh which covers the seed tray, and keeps them in their own wee microclimate.

    Onions, leeks and early salad crops like winter lettuce can also be started in January. Onions and leeks are best sown thinly in trays, covering seeds with about ½ inch (1 cm) of compost. They germinate in 10 –14 days at around 10 –18°C. (50 – 65°F) and don’t need a heat mat, they should be fine on a windowsill in a seed tray with a closh/ clear plastic lid or in a frost-free greenhouse. Even in a greenhouse I would also use a plastic or glass closh or cover to add further protection. Keep compost evenly moist and give them as much light as possible. They’ll grow slowly at first, producing grass-like leaves, and can be planted out from March or April once soil is workable and no longer waterlogged. Lettuce can be sown shallowly, barely covered with compost, as it needs light to germinate, and will sprout in 7–10 days in cool but bright conditions.

    If you have a sheltered garden or heavy protection such a fleece, there are a few seeds that can be sown direct even in January. Broad beans are the standout option. Choose hardy varieties such as Aguadulce, and sow seeds 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) apart into soil that is not frozen and drains well. A cloche (row cover) or fleece is strongly recommended to protect seedlings from frost and birds. Broad beans germinate slowly in winter, often taking 2–3 weeks, and growth will be minimal until days lengthen. They prefer cool conditions, need little extra watering at this time of year, and benefit from soaking seeds overnight to speed germination.

    Peas can also be started now, but are usually more reliable under cover. Sow them in deep modules or small pots, about 1–1½ inches (3 – 4 cm) deep, and keep them in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame. They germinate in 10–14 days at cool temperatures and don’t need much heat, just protection from hard frost. Light is important to keep growth sturdy, and watering should be modest. Seedlings can be planted out from March, depending on soil condition, with protection if cold weather returns. My best advice is to have a closh at the ready even when planted out and keep a good eye on the weather for colder snaps

    Across all January sowings, water lightly but consistently. Cold, wet compost is the fastest way to lose seedlings. Good drainage is essential, especially for indoor sowings, and bright light after germination is just as important as warmth before it. Soil outside should only be used if it crumbles easily in the hand rather than sticking together, a sign it’s ready to work. By starting the right vegetables now, using windowsills, airing cupboards, heated pads, grow lights or heated greenhouses or cloches as needed, you set yourself up for strong, healthy plants that are ready to thrive once spring truly arrives.

    You can also start chilli seeds in January. Sow them indoors as it’s far too cold outside not even an outside closh or heated greenhouse will be warm enough for the seeds to germinate. Use small pots or a seed tray filled with seed compost (seed-starting mix), lightly press the seeds onto the surface and cover them with a thin layer of compost. To give them the warmth they need, place the pots on a heated propagator or heat mat, aiming for a constant 22–28°C (72–82°F) and use grow lights (plant light) to make up for short winter days, keeping the compost just damp, not wet. They need both light and heat to germinate. Clear lids or plastic covers help retain moisture until seedlings appear, after which keep young plants warm, well lit, and frost-free. One of the biggest problems with planting chillies in January is that the plants can become leggy, so it might be worth considering waiting until late Feb for this one.

    If you are looking for a video demonstrating some of the equipment mentioned in this post Jessie at Plot 37 has an excellent guide to her indoor set up. The set up starts around 14 mins into the vid. However, I have no doubt you will find some if not all the information in her vid useful My DIY Indoor Grow Setup for New Year Chilli Sowing!

    January Sowing Quick Reference Guide

    Chillies, Sweet Peppers & Aubergines
    • Where to sow: Indoors under cover
    • Containers: Modules or seed trays
    • Depth: ¼ inch (0.5 cm)
    • Germination time: 7–14 days
    • Heat needed: High 21–27°C (70–80°F)
    • Light: Very bright once sprouted (windowsill or grow lights (shop lights, daylight lamps)
    • Water: Light but consistent, never waterlogged
    • Soak seeds first: Optional, can speed germination
    • Plant outside: Late May–June, after last frost
    Onions
    • Where to sow: Indoors or frost-free greenhouse
    • Containers: Seed trays
    • Depth: ½ inch (1 cm)
    • Germination time: 10–14 days
    • Heat needed: Low 10–18°C (50–65°F)
    • Light: Bright but cool
    • Water: Even moisture
    • Soak seeds first: Not needed
    • Plant outside: March–April when soil is workable
    Leeks
    • Where to sow: Indoors or under cover
    • Containers: Seed trays
    • Depth: ½ inch (1 cm)
    • Germination time: 10–14 days
    • Heat needed: Low
    • Light: Bright, cool conditions
    • Water: Moderate
    • Soak seeds first: Not needed
    • Plant outside: April–May
    Winter Lettuce
    • Where to sow: Indoors, cold frame or cool greenhouse
    • Containers: Trays or shallow modules
    • Depth: Surface sow, barely covered
    • Germination time: 7–10 days
    • Heat needed: Cool conditions
    • Light: High (needs light to germinate)
    • Water: Light and regular
    • Soak seeds first: No
    • Plant outside: March onwards under protection
    Broad Beans
    • Where to sow: Direct outside or under cloche
    • Containers: Direct sow or deep pots
    • Depth: 2 inches (5 cm)
    • Spacing: 6 inches (15 cm)
    • Germination time: 14–21 days
    • Heat needed: None
    • Light: Natural daylight
    • Water: Minimal in winter
    • Soak seeds first: Yes – overnight recommended
    • Plant outside: Already in position
    Peas
    • Where to sow: Under cover or cold frame
    • Containers: Deep modules or pots
    • Depth: 1–1½ inches (3–4 cm)
    • Germination time: 10–14 days
    • Heat needed: Low
    • Light: Bright to prevent leggy growth
    • Water: Light, avoid soggy compost
    • Soak seeds first: Helpful but optional
    • Plant outside: March with protection
    Chilli
    • Where to sow: Indoors under cover (heated propagator or warm room)
    • Containers: Small pots, seed trays, or modules
    • Depth: Surface sow, lightly covered with compost (about ¼ inch / 0.5 cm)
    • Germination time: 7–21 days
    • Heat needed: High 22–28°C 72–82°F)
    • Light: Very bright; grow lights recommended to prevent leggy growth
    • Water: Light and regular; keep compost damp, not soggy
    • Soak seeds first: Optional, can potentially speed up germination
    • Plant outside: May – June after last frost, harden off first

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

  • Vegetable Garden Planning for the Coming Year

    Vegetable Garden Planning for the Coming Year

    A cozy indoor scene featuring a wooden table covered with various vegetable seed packets, a notebook, and a pencil. A warm fire burns in a stove nearby, and a Christmas tree is visible in the background.

    Making the Most of the Quiet Season

    I feel like I say this with almost every blog I write, but this really is one of my favourite times of the gardening year. True, nothing much is happening in the garden, but December for me is filled with expectation and the unshakable belief that next year the vegetables I plant will produce the best harvest yet.

    It’s with this excitement that I carve out time over the festive season to do some serious garden planning. Time spent with a cuppa by the fire and a copy of Charles Dowding’s (Not sponsored/affiliated but they do make lovely Xmas presents Calendar, Wallchart & Diary – Charles Dowding) planting calendar can save a whole host of haphazard early spring chaos.

    Those around the world who don’t celebrate the xmas season or for whom it is summer please do map this post onto the time of year that you have a moment to breath and dream of the luscious, abundant harvests to come.

    Whether you’ve a balcony, a postaged stamp sized garden, an allotment or a vast acreage, planning for the coming seasons is a task that will help to ensure a successful growing year.

    So many seeds – so little time 😊

    Choosing the right vegetable seeds for our increasingly unpredictable UK climate is the first step to a productive season. Hardy crops such as beetroot, chard, kale, broad beans, brassicas, leeks and onions tolerate our cooler weather very well, while heat-lovers like peppers (bell peppers) and tomatoes benefit from an early indoor start, where temperatures can be better regulated. The winter break is an ideal time to think about which crops your family truly eats. Will you fill your growing space with reliable staples that store or preserve well such as carrots, potatoes, pumpkins, onions and beets. Or will you save a little room to try something new even if it’s a gamble for storage or taste? You might also consider growing pricier crops that are expensive in the uk to buy such as asparagus or ginger both of which can be frozen for longer storage. Having said that, asparagus in my opinion is never as nice once frozen, but still useful for bakes and quiches. For storage-heavy crops like onions, garlic and winter squash, choose varieties bred for long keeping, as they can dramatically extend your self-sufficiency into the colder months.

    Deciding what to focus on will help you plan out your year more effectively.

    Out with the old

    This quiet period is also perfect for sorting and organising your seed collection. Seed viability differs widely: parsnip seeds rarely last beyond a year or two year, while tomatoes, brassicas, lettuce and many herbs can remain viable for three to five years when stored properly. Older seeds can still germinate and may well surprise you, but germination rates naturally decline with age. When using older packets, sow a little more heavily to increase your chances of getting enough strong seedlings. The key to preserving viability is understanding the three main threats: humidity, heat and repeated freezing. Seeds stored in a warm, centrally heated room may lose viability more quickly, while a damp shed or garage can trigger mould or early sprouting. On the other hand, a freezing, uninsulated garage can damage seeds if temperatures fluctuate dramatically. Aim for cool, stable, dry conditions, an airtight tin, jar or sealed box stored in a cupboard is ideal.

    Seed sorting & storing

    When it comes to storing and categorising seeds, simple systems are often the most effective. Many UK growers use photo storage boxes, recipe-card boxes, tins, or small drawers to organise their packets. You might store them chronologically by sowing month, making it easy to pull out what’s needed each month. Alternatively you might decide to group similar varieties together, such as brassicas, roots, salads and herbs. Whatever system you choose, keep seeds in their original packets inside a sealed container with silica gel or rice to absorb moisture, store them away from radiators and heating vents, and avoid locations with fluctuating temperatures. Properly stored seeds stay viable far longer and save money year after year.

    My seed sorting strategy is always to take one of the days between xmas and the new year (if new year is in January for you) get all my seeds out, make a big mess, ditch any that are five years old, then sort them by planting month. I can then fill in the gaps with new seeds if I need them. I say if I need them, knowing full well I will be lured into purchasing twice as many throughout the year than I started with! who can resist a seed sale 😊 By mid Autumn my seed trunk (and it is a trunk, not a wee box) looks like a bomb has hit it – and so the process of promising to be tidier next year beings again.

    Winter vegetable garden planning isn’t about doing, it’s about imagining. The garden may be quiet, but this stillness invites creativity and clarity. Spread your seed packets out on the table, build your plan around the food you genuinely enjoy, review any notes you made last year and enjoy this gentle pause before the rush of spring. By taking this reflective approach now, you step into the next growing season with confidence, organisation and a renewed connection to the simple joy of growing your own food. Patience over the next couple couple of months is the key – the opportunity to get those seeds in their little module trays is coming, but for now, organising and planning will put you in a stronger position to hit the ground running come early spring.

    Consider your growing space

    Adequate crop spacing is one of the most important and yet often most overlooked elements of successful vegetable garden planning. Each crop has its own requirements, and planning this during winter prevents overcrowding, poor airflow, and reduced yields later on. Large brassicas such as cabbage, cauliflower and sprouts need generous room to expand, often 40–60cm between plants, i have been growing brassicas for many years and am still always surprised at the space they take up in my beds. Fast-growing crops like lettuce or spinach can be sown more densely or succession-planted for a steady supply. Root crops such as carrots and beetroot rely on looser soil and fairly even spacing to grow straight and strong. Climbing crops like runner beans, French beans and peas require vertical support and enough horizontal space to allow air movement around the stems, helping prevent mildew. Sprawling plants such as courgettes, pumpkins and winter squash need far more space than many expect often taking a full square metre or more. When planning your layout, also consider sunlight, crop rotation (if you rotate – some growers, myself included don’t rotate regularly) the mature size of each plant, and whether you want to interplant quick growers like radishes between slower crops. Thinking about spacing now ensures healthier plants, easier maintenance and a garden layout that feels intentional rather than overcrowded and chaotic. When you are planning for next season, read over your seed packets as most will give the planting distances, the keep that in mind when deciding where you you will plant.

    When the waiting becomes too much

    If the itch to sow becomes irresistible, you’ll be pleased to know that several seeds can be started as early as January or February in the UK. Chillies (hot peppers), aubergines (eggplants), onions from seed, early tomatoes, hardy broad beans and possibly celeriac, are all good early candidates. These crops benefit from long growing seasons and thrive when started indoors on a windowsill or under grow lights. All these long growing season crops will have a certain temperature range at which they are most likely to germinate, this should be stated on the seed packet. If not just look up the exact variety online. The germination temperature is important as is the need to mitigate for temperature fluctuation.

    Final Thoughts

    Planning your veg patch is about about imagining, dreaming & organising. Winter in the garden tends to be slower and this stillness invites some creativity and clarity. Spread your seed packets out on the table, build your plan around the food you love to eat, review your favourite monthly planning guidance, and enjoy this gentle pause before spring returns in earnest. By taking this reflective approach now, you will move into the next growing season with confidence, organisation and a renewed connection to the joy of growing your own healthy organic food.

    If you want a bit more on planting strategies & growing space Huw Richards has some good, & relatively affordable courses on the ‘Abundance Academy’ which are worth checking out. They are about £30 a pop & with lifetime access https://abundanceacademy.online/ (I’m not affiliated in any way – but purchased one a few years ago and found it helpful).

    Again I’m not affiliate in any way but Charles Dowding also has some really good courses on his website https://shop.charlesdowding.co.uk/collections/online-courses.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

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  • Ultimate Guide to Growing Overwintering Onions

    A collection of brown onions on the top half and red onions on the bottom half of the image.

    🧅 Why Grow Overwintering Onions?

    I love onions and grow at least 50 from both sets and seeds every year – more about onion sets later. This humble Allium is a kitchen essential; it’s the base for many dishes around the world, from an Italian ragu to Indian curry. Onions bring sweetness, sharpness, and depth to cooking everywhere. In our house, they are the Queen of our home crops. Onions have been valued for centuries for their health benefits, being rich in antioxidants, vitamin C, and sulphur compounds that can support heart health and overall immunity.

    Onions are believed to have arrived in Britain with the Romans, who prized them for their flavour, ease of storage, and medicinal uses. Today, onions are still one of the easiest and most rewarding crops to grow. They are often one of the first crops people consider when trying a more self-sufficient lifestyle, as they are relatively easy to grow.

    In this post, we will discover the overwintering method along with some practical tips to make your harvest a success.

    🌿 The Ideal Soil for Onions

    Onions thrive in well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH (6.5–7.5). Heavy clay should be improved with compost or grit to prevent waterlogging, which can rot bulbs during wet winters. Even these hardy crops don’t like to be constantly wet – they are plants not 🦆 ducks.

    If soil isn’t ideal, you can try raised beds or containers. I grow most of my veg in no-dig raised beds, partly because we are on heavy clay and I find I get far fewer weeds with raised beds.

    • Raised beds: Warm faster in spring and drain more freely – ideal for onions.
    • Large containers: At least 12 in (30 cm) deep, filled with loam-based compost mixed with sharp sand, are excellent for compact spaces.

    Before planting, if possible, try using an organic soil feed, such as seaweed, alfalfa meal (lucerne meal), or a mix of home-made compost or quality peat-free compost and rock dust (organic rock dust mineral fertiliser or volcanic rock dust available from most good garden centres) . These provide slow-release nutrients and trace minerals that support healthy bulb formation and soil structure.
    Avoid excessive nitrogen – lush leaves may look good, but they’ll reduce bulb size and shorten storage life. These are not essential, but may be helpful, especially if your soil is poor or you want nice big bulbs.

    🌰 Planting Onions for Overwintering

    Overwintering onions are best planted from sets (small immature bulbs) between late September and early November, giving them time to root before their winter dormancy. Onion sets can be purchased from any quality garden centre or nursery. I generally decide on hardy verities which I find work well in a UK climate.

    Planting guide:

    • Depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) deep, with just the tip of the bulb visible.
    • Spacing: 4–6 in (10–15 cm) between bulbs and 10–12 in (25–30 cm) between rows.
    • Site: Choose a sunny, sheltered spot protected from frost pockets and waterlogging.
    • How: Plant with the root end in the soil, pointy end toward the sky – I know sounds obvious, but when I was new to growing my own veg I needed all the help I could get!
    • Cover: This is optional but I always cover my newly planted onion sets with a fine piece of chicken wire. I’m convinced our local bird life watch me plant, and when the coast is clear they swoop down and dig them all up. So I peg down some chicken wire until the bulbs become a little more established.
    A collage of various onion bulbs showing their planting ends, labeled 'Planting End'.

    For raised beds and pots follow the same rules – just ensure proper drainage and airflow.

    I’ve mentioned in previous posts that I buy my raised beds from a company called ‘Estate to Garden’ https://www.estatetogarden.co.uk/ I’m not affiliated in any way, I just love their products.

    If you are interested in finding out more about gardening in raised beds, this might be the read for you How to start with raised beds

    ❄️Caring for Onions Through Winter

    Once planted, onions are fairly low-maintenance, but they do need attention during the cold months or with a run of dry weather.

    • Watering: Only if the soil dries out during mild spells.
    • Weeding: Keep the planting area clear of weeds to reduce competition.
    • Protection: In very cold conditions (below –5 °C / 23 °F), cover with fleece or cloches.
    • Feeding: In early spring, you might want to use some organic potash to boost bulb formation.

    As days begin to lengthen in spring, your onions will burst into growth – keep soil loose and weed-free to ensure good air circulation.

    Don’t worry if you see a little growth over winter, especially if conditions are mild. This generally means the plant is establishing itself. Just watch out for sudden frost. If you know a frost is due after a dry warm spell then protect the bulbs with a light fleece or row cover. A good mulch will also help insulate the soil. Generally onions are hardy plants as long as they don’t get waterlogged which can cause the bulb to rot.

    My general advice if planting overwinter onions is to choose a hardy variety for your particular growing zone. For more on hardiness zones see https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/rhs-hardiness-rating The UK is mostly falls into the US zones 6 to 9.

    🌾 Best Onion Varieties for Overwintering in the UK

    Not all onions are equal when it comes to overwintering. Some varieties store for months; others deliver unbeatable flavour or frost resistance. Here are five of the best for UK gardeners:

    🟡 ‘Senshyu Yellow’

    • Origin: Japanese variety
    • Strengths: Hardy, early to mature, mild flavour
    • Storage: 2–3 months
    • Best for: Early harvests and reliable performance

    🧄 ‘Radar’

    • Strengths: Extremely hardy, frost-resistant, strong flavour
    • Storage: Up to 4 months -dehydrate or freeze for longer storage.
    • Best for: Tough UK winters and dependable yields

    🔴 ‘Electric’ (Red Onion)

    • Strengths: Sweet, colourful, and full of character
    • Storage: Shorter (2 months) again freeze or dehydrate for longer storage
    • Best for: Flavour and visual appeal in salads and cooking

    🟤 ‘Shakespeare’

    • Strengths: Vigorous, disease-resistant, long storage life (up to 6 months)
    • Best for: Resilience and long-term use in the kitchen

    ⚪ ‘Troy’

    • Strengths: Quick-growing, balanced flavour, bolt-resistant
    • Storage: Moderate (3–4 months)
    • Best for: Consistent results and high yields

    🐛 Organic Pest Control for Overwintering Onions

    Even the hardiest onions can attract a few unwelcome guests. Overwintered crops are particularly vulnerable to onion fly, slugs, and allium leaf miner. Keeping these critters in check organically will protect your bulbs without harming beneficial insects.

    🪰 Onion Fly

    Onion fly larvae tunnel into the bulbs, causing rot and stunted growth.


    Prevention tips:

    • Use fine mesh or insect netting from planting time until mid-summer to block egg-laying adults.
    • Rotate crops yearly – received wisdom is never plant onions or leeks in the same bed two years running. But with the no-dig method of gardening, I would argue to the contrary. Personally, I have planted both leeks and onions in the same place for several years with no issue. However, each to their own, as with all gardening, you will find what works best for your own growing conditions.
    • Lift and destroy affected bulbs promptly to stop larvae spreading.

    🐌 Slugs and Snails

    These pests can damage emerging shoots during mild spells.


    Control methods:

    • Scatter crushed eggshells, wool pellets, or natural slug barriers around plants.
    • Hedgehogs, frogs, and ground beetles – your best allies in slug control.
    • Avoid beer traps over winter; they attract slugs from surrounding. One of the best ways to to ensure the planting area is clear of debris, and had pick the offending beasties at dusk.

    🪱 Allium Leaf Miner

    A newer UK pest, the allium leaf miner, lays eggs in onion leaves, causing wilting and discolouration.

    Protection tips:

    • Cover crops with fine insect mesh from October through spring.
    • Remove and dispose of any infested foliage—do not compost it.
    • Growing strong-smelling herbs like chives or rosemary nearby may also deter adults

    🌞 When to Harvest and How to Cure Onions

    By June or early July, your overwintered onions should be ready to harvest. When the leaves start to yellow and bend naturally, it’s time to lift them. I have a post about harvesting onions that might be of use here Harvesting Onion – Lift don’t pull.

    Harvesting steps:
    • Gently loosen soil with a fork and avoid bruising the bulbs.
    • Lay onions in a dry, airy location such as a greenhouse or shed. If the greenhouse gets overly hot and sunny, it might be worth covering with a dark netting just to shield them a bit from the direct sunlight
    • Let them cure for 2–3 weeks until the skins are papery and necks sealed.

    Once cured, trim leaves and roots. Store in mesh bags or trays in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space. Check periodically, removing any soft or mouldy bulbs.

    🌻 Final Thoughts

    With the right soil, hardy varieties, and minimal care, you can enjoy an early harvest of onions. Whether in raised beds, borders, or pots, these resilient bulbs prove that patience and preparation pay off in the garden.

    Let me know in the comments your top tips for overwintering onions.

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  • October Gardening: Best Crops to Sow Now

    An infographic illustrating various vegetables to sow in October, including broad beans, carrots, garlic, spinach, spring onions, winter lettuce, and peas, set against a light green background with the title 'What to sow in October'.

    As autumn deepens and we start thinking about putting the heating on, many gardeners put their tools away, assuming the growing season is over. But in the UK and other temperate Zone 9-ish climates, October can be an excellent month for sowing hardy crops that thrive in cooler conditions. The soil is still holding some of the summers warmth and the moisture levels ideal. So now is the time to think ahead. By sowing into open ground, raised beds, or containers, and making use of mulching, you can harvest fresh greens in winter and early spring. Now is the ideal time to enjoy the many benefits of overwintering crops. It’s an ideal strategy for beginner gardeners as the crops below are relatively easy to grow, as long as you keep them protected.

    Broad Beans (Vicia faba)

    Broad beans are a staple October sowing. Sow seeds roughly 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 7 to 8 inches (20 cm) apart in open ground, raised beds or pots. In heavy clay soils, raised beds can improve drainage, but if planting direct make sure the seeds do not get waterlogged. Like many seeds they are prone to rot, so consider sowing under cover until the plat is well established. Germination is best between 10–20°C . Young seedlings benefit from fleece during harsh frosts but the plant will gradually grow into sturdy a stem that will withstand cool conditions. Aphids (Black bean aphid) are a common pest; encourage ladybirds and lacewings, or use organic sprays such as diluted soap solutions. Removing aphids early can help the spread considerably but if its mulching around plants conserves soil warmth and reduces weeds.

    Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

    Spinach thrives in cooler autumn temperatures. Sow seeds 1–2 cm deep in fertile, moist soil, either directly in the ground, in containers or raised beds. Germination occurs best between 10–16°C. Spinach produces leafy rosettes that can be harvested as baby leaves within 6–8 weeks and continue through winter with protection. I cover mine with netting but try to raise it well above the plants to allow for good airflow. I also use further protection for young plants when transplanting into their final position in the form of a closh fashioned from a 5lt water bottle.

    A transparent plastic bottle used as a cloche to protect young plants in a garden bed, with soil visible underneath.

    Mulch with compost to retain soil moisture and a moderate temperature. Slugs and snails are the main threat — organic controls include beer traps, copper tape, or evening hand-picking all work well. If you want to wrap copper tape around your closh that can be helpful. I regularly spray with a home made garlic spray. The pungent smell irritates the slugs and snails sensitive mucus membrane. To make the spray just peel 3 or 4 cloves, cut in half, pop them in a spray bottle and fill with water. Leave this for a few days for the garlic to infuse. Spray directly on the spinach a couple of times a week.

    Winter Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

    Choose hardy varieties such as ‘Winter Density’ or ‘Arctic King’ these are excellent for October sowings. Seeds should be sown thinly, just under the soil surface, either under cloches in the ground or in trays and modules under cover. A green house or polytunnel is ideal, however if you don’t have either cover a seed tray with a clear seed tray cover of lose clear plastic until seeds have germinated. Germination is best at 10–15°C. Plants form compact heads or loose-leaf rosettes that can be harvested from late winter through early spring. Mulch with straw or leaf mould to insulate roots and deter weeds. Protect plants from frost with fleece or cloches. Slugs are the main pest; barriers of wool pellets or sand can provide effective organic defence, or see the tips above for spinach.

    Garlic (Allium sativum) and Spring Onions (Allium cepa var. cepa)

    Garlic cloves should be planted 2–3 cm deep, spaced 10–15 cm apart, in well-drained soil or raised beds. They require a cold spell to develop bulbs. For a full guide on how to grow garlic see my post Overwintering garlic: A new growers guide

    Spring Onions (Allium cepa var. cepa)

    Spring onions, such as ‘White Lisbon Winter Hardy,’ can be sown under cover in modules or trays as soon as possible. Sow thinly at 1 cm deep; germination is best between 10–20°C. Spring onions benefit from mulching, this improves soil structure and keeps weeds at bay. Pests include onion fly and rust; rotating crops, ensuring good airflow and netting will all provide organic prevention.

    Peas (Pisum sativum)

    Hardy varieties like ‘Meteor’ can be sown directly in October for a potential early May crop. Plant seeds 5 cm deep and 5–8 cm apart in double rows, with supports already in place. It’s important to put your supports in when you plant – putting them in once the plant is well established risks damaging the roots as the support goes in. Germination occurs quite reliably in cool soils between 7–15°C. Plants grow slowly through winter before flourishing in early spring. Cover emerging shoots with netting to prevent bird damage. Mildew can be an issue later, but mulching to keep soil moisture consistent, combined with adequate spacing, helps reduce risk organically. Powdery mildew often occurs as the weather warms and the plant tends to get a but humid. Again airflow is key, but some people swear by spraying the affected areas with milk spray. Three parts water, to one part milk in a spray bottle applied to the plant.

    Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus)

    Cold-hardy varieties such as ‘Autumn King’ can still be sown in October in light, sandy soils, ideally in raised beds or pots. Sow thinly 1 cm deep in rows 15–20 cm apart. Germination is best in soils between 7–20°C. Growth will be slow but steady, producing sweet roots by early spring. Carrot fly is the main pest, but mesh barriers or sowing in raised beds taller than 60 cm offer effective organic protection. Mulching helps retain moisture and prevent frost damage to young seedlings. Protect with a loose layer of net and remove when seeds have germinated.

    Final Thoughts

    Sowing in October is all about working with nature’s rhythms. I try to choose hardy varieties that can withstand cooler climates. I use mulches like straw, peat free compost, and leaf mould to insulate roots, suppress weeds, and improve soil health. Because I am an organic gardener I use organic controls to deal with the critters that are attracted to winter crops. By embracing overwintering, and having a little patience to wait for spring, you’ll not only extend your growing season but will also get a head start on the next growing season.

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  • Overwintering Garlic: A New Growers Guide

    Graphic illustrating the process of growing garlic, with animated garlic characters, a text 'From clove to Harvest', and images of garlic plants and bulbs.

    A Guide for new growers

    Garlic is a staple in many kitchens around the world and one of the most rewarding crops to grow at home. Overwintering garlic—planting the cloves in autumn (fall) so they establish roots before winter—ensures a strong, healthy harvest the following summer. Unlike spring planting, autumn sowing allows garlic to benefit from the natural cold period, generally producing larger, more flavoursome bulbs. For gardeners in many areas (particularly in the UK), this is the tried-and-trusted method of getting reliable results from your plot or raised bed or container.

    When you purchase garlic for planting it will generally come as a whole bulb. To plant you will need to separate out the individual cloves. Plant each clove about 2 inches (5cm) deep with the pointed end facing up. They should be about 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) apart. More on this later.

    Two main types of garlic

    There are two main types of garlic: hardneck and softneck. Hardneck garlic produces a firm central stalk known as a scape, with larger cloves arranged in a single ring around the stem. It has a strong, complex flavour but a shorter storage life. I grow both types and try to use my hardneck garlic first. This, as ever, is where it’s important to label your crops Labelling: simple but vital

    Softneck garlic, in contrast, has no central scape and produces more numerous but smaller cloves in multiple layers. While often milder in flavour, softneck garlic stores for much longer. I have been using stored softneck garlic for well over a year. This makes softneck ideal for long term use and there is nothing more lovely than seeing a hanging braid of garlic in the pantry. Your choice of garlic will depend on your local climate and how long you’d like your garlic to keep.

    Hardneck

    Hardneck garlic grows best in colder parts of the world (the UK in particular) and benefits from a pronounced winter chill. It prefers well-drained soil and protection from waterlogging, so raised beds are often a good option. If planting direct in the ground make sure it’s a spot that doesn’t flood or pool in wet weather. I would recommend trying some of the following varieties ‘Carcassonne Wight’, ‘Lautrec Wight’, and ‘Purple Moldovan’, if in the UK. However, it’s always best to choose the variety that is most suited to your particular region, a quick internet search will help you identify appropriate varieties. My pick of varieties will give you patient robust flavours and attractive cloves, though they usually need to be eaten within a few months of harvest. Mulching with straw or compost helps insulate bulbs against frost and keeps weeds down.

    Softneck

    Softneck garlic is more adaptable and better suited to milder regions. It doesn’t need as much cold to form cloves and usually stores far longer than hardnecks. Popular UK varieties include ‘Solent Wight’, ‘Early Purple Wight’, and ‘Messidrome’. These varieties are dependable croppers, producing bulbs that will keep well into the next year. They grow well both in open ground and raised beds, as long as soil remains moist but not waterlogged. A mulch layer is still advisable, especially in exposed gardens. I have had good success with Solent Wight planted in late October/early November.

    Hardneck vs Softneck Garlic at a glance

    Hardneck Garlic

    • Produces a firm central stalk (scape).
    • Larger cloves in a single ring.
    • Strong, complex flavour.
    • Shorter storage life (best eaten within a few months).

    Remember you can also use the scapes in cooking, so two crops for the price of one. Use the scapes a bit like asparagus. Cut the scape about 2 or 3 inches (5 – 8 cm) below the bulb of the scape. Fry them gently in some good olive oil or butter to soften and enjoy as you would asparagus.

    A close-up image of garlic scapes with arrows pointing to them, placed on a wooden surface.

    Softneck Garlic

    • No central scape; produces many smaller cloves.
    • Often milder in flavour.
    • Stores much longer (up to a year).
    • Ideal for braiding and long-term use.

    Your choice will depend on your climate and how long you want your garlic to keep.

    When buying garlic for planting, always source certified seed garlic from a reputable supplier. Tempting as it might be to plant cloves from the supermarket they are often treated to prevent sprouting and may carry disease. Separate the cloves just before planting, keeping their papery skins intact. Plant cloves pointy side up, around 2 inches 95 cm) deep, spacing them 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart with 12 inches (30 cm) between rows. Planting is usually done in October or November, about 4–6 weeks before the ground hardens with frost. Both raised beds and well-prepared garden soil work well, but good drainage is essential. As I say in almost every blog, these are plants not ducks and they don’t like permanently wet feet 🦆

    Once your cloves are safely in the ground, garlic needs little attention over the winter months. A mulch of compost, leaves or fine woodchips, will protect against temperature swings and reduce weed growth. Through winter, garlic lies largely dormant, but roots continue to develop below the surface. Come spring, green shoots emerge and regular watering will support their rapid growth. Don’t panic if you start to see green shoots prior to spring, this can happen especially during a mild winter.

    Harvest typically comes in July (mid-summer), when the lower leaves begin to yellow but several green leaves remain. Cure your bulbs in a dry, airy place before storing them—softnecks may last until the following spring, while hardnecks are best eaten sooner.

    Curing is the process of hanging or laying your garlic harvest out to dry. Hang or lay the whole plant in a raised, shaded, dry spot with plenty of airflow. Do not cure in direct sunlight. I dry mine on a slatted shelf in my polytunnel loosely covered with a ventilated black shade cloth. I also use one of our log stores under which I construct makeshift drying racks. Cure your garlic for around two to four weeks or until the stem are completely brown and dry. The curing process allows the outer papery layers to harden off, which helps significantly with storage longevity.

    Growing Garlic in Containers

    If you don’t have access to a garden bed or allotment, garlic grows surprisingly well in containers. Choose a pot at least 20 cm (8 inches) deep with plenty of drainage holes. Fill with a free-draining compost mixed with some horticultural grit or sand to prevent waterlogging. Plant cloves 2 inches (5 cm) deep, leaving 4 inches (10 cm) between them. Smaller pots may only fit 3–4 cloves, while larger troughs or planters could hold a full row.

    Containers should be placed in the sunniest position you have, such as a patio, or balcony. Water sparingly in winter to avoid soggy compost, then more regularly in spring and early summer as growth accelerates. Just like in the ground, garlic in containers will be ready to harvest in July. Allow bulbs to dry thoroughly before storing, as container-grown garlic is slightly more prone to rot if cured improperly.

    If you have space for a good quality raised bed these are ideal for growing garlic. I purchase mine from a company in the UK called ‘Estate to Garden’ Estate to garden. They have excellent quality raised beds which are reasonably priced and easy to construct. I have no affiliate links with this company, I just like their products.

    Regardless of where you choose to grow your garlic make sure you try to harvest your crop on a sunny day. Although your garlic will still dry out, harvesting in dry weather will help prevent fungal disease and decay during storage. Harvesting in dry firm soil will also help damaging the roots when lifting. Garlic should be harvested using the same method as onions – so lift don’t pull, you can read more about lifting here Harvesting Onions – lift don’t pull!

    Garlic Planting & Growing Calendar (UK)

    • September – Prepare beds with well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Add compost or well-rotted manure.
    • October–November – Plant cloves 2 inches ( 5 cm) deep and mulch well.
    • December–February (Winter) – Minimal care needed; keep beds weed-free, mulch if needed.
    • March–May (Spring) – Shoots appear; water during dry spells and keep soil evenly moist. Feed with a general organic fertiliser if growth is weak. A good comfrey tea would work well.
    • June – Watch for signs of maturity: lower leaves begin to yellow. Reduce watering to avoid bulb rot.
    • July – Harvest when 5–6 green leaves remain. Cure in a dry, shaded, airy place for 2–3 weeks. Store softneck garlic until spring; enjoy hardneck sooner.

    Companion Planting with Garlic

    Garlic not only provides delicious bulbs but also acts as a natural pest deterrent in the garden. Its strong scent helps repel aphids, carrot fly, and even slugs to a degree. Garlic pairs well with crops such as carrots, beetroot, strawberries, lettuce, and tomatoes, as it discourages pests while taking up little space. Planting garlic near roses can also help deter greenfly. However, garlic doesn’t get along particularly well with legumes like peas and beans, as it can inhibit their growth. Strategic planting can make your garlic pull double duty: tasty harvests and natural pest protection.

    Closing Thoughts

    Overwintering garlic is one of the simplest and most rewarding ways to grow. By choosing the right variety for your climate, preparing well-drained soil (containers or raised beds), and giving your cloves a head start in autumn, you’ll enjoy a generous harvest of flavourful bulbs by midsummer. Whether you opt for robust hardnecks long-storing softnecks, or a mixture of both, garlic fits easily into most spaces and even provides benefits to neighbouring plants. With just a little effort in autumn, you’ll be reaping the rewards the following year—garlic that’s fresher, tastier, and more satisfying than anything you’ll find in the shops.

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