November Gardening: Top Crops to Plant Now

November might feel like it’s time to hibernate with a good gardening book in front of a roaring fire. But for no-dig growers, (and dig gardeners of course) November is the perfect opportunity to prepare and plant hardy crops that will reward you later in the season. Many areas in UK and beyond can still support active sowing and planting, especially under cover and in well-drained raised beds or soil.

Below are some ideas for plants to get started November, complete with planting guides, care and pest control.

Broad Beans (Vicia faba)

Broad beans are a fantastic crop for organic gardeners. The large seeds germinate fairly reliably in cooler soils at around 8–10 °C (46–50 °F). Their roots help fix nitrogen, so will help improve your soil naturally. Sow them about 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) apart. In heavy or wet soil, start them in trays or modules and transplant when seedlings are 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) tall. Add cane supports early, while roots are still shallow, to prevent tall stems snapping or rocking in strong winds. We put the stakes in when planting or early so as not to damage the roots later.

Keep the soil just moist, watering every 10–14 days in beds and weekly if growing in pots under cover. Obviously if it rains a lot this watering won’t be an issue but in your plants are in a greenhouse , polytunnel or under cover then they will need some watering. Pinch out the growing tips when the first flowers start to form pods, this usually happens in late April or May. Pinching out the growing tips both deters blackfly and encourages energy into pod production. If frost threatens, a fleece tunnel will offer good protection. Slugs, snails and mice are all partial to young bean plants and blackfly can be an issue once plants are established. You can help mitigate for the critters with netting and growing undercover. If you get black fly later in the year try washing them off with soapy water. If the problem persists you can try organic nematodes. My best advice for dealing with plant critters is always start more seeds than you actually need. That way is you lose some you will have replacements.

Key points:

• Sow 2 inches (5 cm) deep, 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) apart.
• Support early to prevent root disturbance later.
• Water moderately; protect from frost and mice.
• Pinch tips to deter blackfly and boost pod set.
• Harvest from May; blanch and freeze surplus

Garlic (Allium sativum) and Onions (Allium cepa)

Garlic and overwintering onions love the chill of late autumn. They use winter’s cold to develop strong roots and firm bulbs. Choose varieties bred for overwintering, such as ‘Carcassonne Wight’ or ‘Radar’. Plant garlic cloves point-up, 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) apart in rows spaced 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Onion sets can be planted at the same spacing. I have planted quite a few ‘Sturon’ onions this year, they are hardy and reliable in well drained soil.

Good drainage is essential, if water pools around the bulbs, rot quickly follows. In pots or raised beds, mix in leaf mould or sharp sand for aeration. Water roughly every two weeks to keep compost just moist, and cover with mesh to stop birds tugging up shoots. Again, if it rains significantly over a 2 week period, which let’s face it in a UK climate that’s a given. In which case there’s no need to water. Rotate crops annually to avoid onion fly and white rot. By midsummer, the tops will yellow and flop, signalling harvest time. Cure bulbs in a dry, airy shed for a couple of weeks before storing. For a more detailed blog on onions you might be interested in this The Ultimate guide to growing overwintering onions

Key points:

• Plant garlic 2 inches (5 cm) deep, 6 inches (15 cm) apart.
• Keep soil well-drained and lightly moist.
• Protect shoots from birds; rotate beds yearly.
• Harvest and cure bulbs before storing.

Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica) and Hardy Greens

Kale might just be the perfect no-dig crop. It thrives in cool conditions, laughs in the face of frost (to a point), and keeps producing for months. Sow seeds now in trays or modules under cover, then plant out when 4 inches (10 cm) tall. Germination is happiest at 10–18 °C (50–65 °F). Mulch beds thickly with compost before planting – it feeds the soil and insulates roots over winter.

Once planted, water once a week in pots or every 10 days in the ground, depending on rain. Add a cane beside each young plant to stop “wind rock” — when the base shifts in gusts, stressing the roots. Keep pigeons off with netting and check regularly for slugs, which love the sheltered compost surface. Harvest outer leaves as needed from late winter onwards; new leaves will keep coming through spring.

For a more detailed blog on growing kale you might find this blog helpful How to grow kale organically

Key points:

• Start in trays; transplant seedlings 4 inches (10 cm) tall.
• Mulch well and stake to prevent wind rock.
• Protect from pigeons and slugs with netting
• Pick outer leaves regularly for ongoing harvest.

Winter Salads – Mizuna, Mustard, and Corn Salad (Valerianella locusta)

If you’ve a cold frame, greenhouse, or polytunnel, you can enjoy fresh salads right through winter. Mizuna, mustard greens, and corn salad (lamb’s lettuce) germinate happily in cool conditions. Scatter seed thinly and cover with a light ¼ inch (0.5 cm) of compost. Once seedlings appear, thin to about 6 inches (15 cm) apart.

Water lightly – winter air is damp but soil in containers will dry faster so keep an eye on your pots. Over watering however can encourages rot, so aim for soil that’s just moist to the touch. Protect with mesh or fleece if temperatures dip below freezing. Pick the outer leaves regularly to encourage new growth.

I tend to plant some salad crops outside and some in the poly tunnel. I find they do grow a little better in the polytunnel but I do need to keep an eye on how often I water. Having said that I actually think the ones grown outside taste better.

Key points:

• Sow thinly, cover lightly, thin to 6 inches (15 cm).
• Water sparingly but consistently if under cover
• Protect from frost and slugs – slugs are very fond of young salad leaves
• Pick outer leaves for repeat harvests.

Peas (Pisum sativum) and Winter Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

Hardy pea varieties like ‘Meteor’ and winter spinach like ‘Giant Winter’ are excellent for November sowings. Sow peas 2 inches (5 cm) deep, spacing seeds about 2 inches (5 cm) apart, and spinach 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep. Push in twiggy pea sticks early so their tendrils can climb and the stems don’t snap. Peas benefit from good airflow, so avoid overcrowding.

Both crops need consistent but light watering. Water them about once a week in raised beds. Reduce watering if it rains significantly. Cover young plants with mesh to deter pigeons and keep slugs at bay with organic barriers. I find insect netting works well put loosely over the plant secured at the base. Spinach leaves can be picked after six weeks, while peas will crop from late spring. Both freeze well after blanching.

If you want a deeper dive into planting spinach this blog might be helpful Grow Your Own Spinach

Key points:

• Sow hardy peas and spinach direct in November.
• Add supports early to peas and water lightly.
• Protect from pigeons and slugs netting can help.
• Harvest spinach after six weeks; peas in late spring.

Final Thoughts

The beauty of no-dig gardening in November lies in its calm preparation. You’re not forcing growth, you’re setting the stage and allowing the winter veg to mature slowly. Compost or leave mulches feeds soil microbes and help keep everything alive and healthy through winter. Keep watering consistent if plants are under cover. Make sure plants are protected from strong winds and young plants from frost if outside.

Even in the shortest days, your no-dig plot is quietly at work beneath the mulch. It is turning patience into next season’s abundance.

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