Solitaire Gardener

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Tag: beginner gardener

Overwintering Garlic: A New Growers Guide
A Guide for new growers

Garlic is a staple in many kitchens around the world and one of the most rewarding crops to grow at home. Overwintering garlic—planting the cloves in autumn (fall) so they establish roots before winter—ensures a strong, healthy harvest the following summer. Unlike spring planting, autumn sowing allows garlic to benefit from the natural cold period, generally producing larger, more flavoursome bulbs. For gardeners in many areas (particularly in the UK), this is the tried-and-trusted method of getting reliable results from your plot or raised bed or container.

When you purchase garlic for planting it will generally come as a whole bulb. To plant you will need to separate out the individual cloves. Plant each clove about 2 inches (5cm) deep with the pointed end facing up. They should be about 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) apart. More on this later.

Two main types of garlic

There are two main types of garlic: hardneck and softneck. Hardneck garlic produces a firm central stalk known as a scape, with larger cloves arranged in a single ring around the stem. It has a strong, complex flavour but a shorter storage life. I grow both types and try to use my hardneck garlic first. This, as ever, is where it’s important to label your crops Labelling: simple but vital

Softneck garlic, in contrast, has no central scape and produces more numerous but smaller cloves in multiple layers. While often milder in flavour, softneck garlic stores for much longer. I have been using stored softneck garlic for well over a year. This makes softneck ideal for long term use and there is nothing more lovely than seeing a hanging braid of garlic in the pantry. Your choice of garlic will depend on your local climate and how long you’d like your garlic to keep.

Hardneck

Hardneck garlic grows best in colder parts of the world (the UK in particular) and benefits from a pronounced winter chill. It prefers well-drained soil and protection from waterlogging, so raised beds are often a good option. If planting direct in the ground make sure it’s a spot that doesn’t flood or pool in wet weather. I would recommend trying some of the following varieties ‘Carcassonne Wight’, ‘Lautrec Wight’, and ‘Purple Moldovan’, if in the UK. However, it’s always best to choose the variety that is most suited to your particular region, a quick internet search will help you identify appropriate varieties. My pick of varieties will give you patient robust flavours and attractive cloves, though they usually need to be eaten within a few months of harvest. Mulching with straw or compost helps insulate bulbs against frost and keeps weeds down.

Softneck

Softneck garlic is more adaptable and better suited to milder regions. It doesn’t need as much cold to form cloves and usually stores far longer than hardnecks. Popular UK varieties include ‘Solent Wight’, ‘Early Purple Wight’, and ‘Messidrome’. These varieties are dependable croppers, producing bulbs that will keep well into the next year. They grow well both in open ground and raised beds, as long as soil remains moist but not waterlogged. A mulch layer is still advisable, especially in exposed gardens. I have had good success with Solent Wight planted in late October/early November.

Hardneck vs Softneck Garlic at a glance
Hardneck Garlic
- Produces a firm central stalk (scape).
- Larger cloves in a single ring.
- Strong, complex flavour.
- Shorter storage life (best eaten within a few months).
Remember you can also use the scapes in cooking, so two crops for the price of one. Use the scapes a bit like asparagus. Cut the scape about 2 or 3 inches (5 – 8 cm) below the bulb of the scape. Fry them gently in some good olive oil or butter to soften and enjoy as you would asparagus.
Softneck Garlic
- No central scape; produces many smaller cloves.
- Often milder in flavour.
- Stores much longer (up to a year).
- Ideal for braiding and long-term use.
Your choice will depend on your climate and how long you want your garlic to keep.

When buying garlic for planting, always source certified seed garlic from a reputable supplier. Tempting as it might be to plant cloves from the supermarket they are often treated to prevent sprouting and may carry disease. Separate the cloves just before planting, keeping their papery skins intact. Plant cloves pointy side up, around 2 inches 95 cm) deep, spacing them 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart with 12 inches (30 cm) between rows. Planting is usually done in October or November, about 4–6 weeks before the ground hardens with frost. Both raised beds and well-prepared garden soil work well, but good drainage is essential. As I say in almost every blog, these are plants not ducks and they don’t like permanently wet feet 🦆

Once your cloves are safely in the ground, garlic needs little attention over the winter months. A mulch of compost, leaves or fine woodchips, will protect against temperature swings and reduce weed growth. Through winter, garlic lies largely dormant, but roots continue to develop below the surface. Come spring, green shoots emerge and regular watering will support their rapid growth. Don’t panic if you start to see green shoots prior to spring, this can happen especially during a mild winter.

Harvest typically comes in July (mid-summer), when the lower leaves begin to yellow but several green leaves remain. Cure your bulbs in a dry, airy place before storing them—softnecks may last until the following spring, while hardnecks are best eaten sooner.

Curing is the process of hanging or laying your garlic harvest out to dry. Hang or lay the whole plant in a raised, shaded, dry spot with plenty of airflow. Do not cure in direct sunlight. I dry mine on a slatted shelf in my polytunnel loosely covered with a ventilated black shade cloth. I also use one of our log stores under which I construct makeshift drying racks. Cure your garlic for around two to four weeks or until the stem are completely brown and dry. The curing process allows the outer papery layers to harden off, which helps significantly with storage longevity.

Growing Garlic in Containers

If you don’t have access to a garden bed or allotment, garlic grows surprisingly well in containers. Choose a pot at least 20 cm (8 inches) deep with plenty of drainage holes. Fill with a free-draining compost mixed with some horticultural grit or sand to prevent waterlogging. Plant cloves 2 inches (5 cm) deep, leaving 4 inches (10 cm) between them. Smaller pots may only fit 3–4 cloves, while larger troughs or planters could hold a full row.

Containers should be placed in the sunniest position you have, such as a patio, or balcony. Water sparingly in winter to avoid soggy compost, then more regularly in spring and early summer as growth accelerates. Just like in the ground, garlic in containers will be ready to harvest in July. Allow bulbs to dry thoroughly before storing, as container-grown garlic is slightly more prone to rot if cured improperly.

If you have space for a good quality raised bed these are ideal for growing garlic. I purchase mine from a company in the UK called ‘Estate to Garden’ Estate to garden. They have excellent quality raised beds which are reasonably priced and easy to construct. I have no affiliate links with this company, I just like their products.

Regardless of where you choose to grow your garlic make sure you try to harvest your crop on a sunny day. Although your garlic will still dry out, harvesting in dry weather will help prevent fungal disease and decay during storage. Harvesting in dry firm soil will also help damaging the roots when lifting. Garlic should be harvested using the same method as onions – so lift don’t pull, you can read more about lifting here Harvesting Onions – lift don’t pull!

Garlic Planting & Growing Calendar (UK)
- September – Prepare beds with well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Add compost or well-rotted manure.
- October–November – Plant cloves 2 inches ( 5 cm) deep and mulch well.
- December–February (Winter) – Minimal care needed; keep beds weed-free, mulch if needed.
- March–May (Spring) – Shoots appear; water during dry spells and keep soil evenly moist. Feed with a general organic fertiliser if growth is weak. A good comfrey tea would work well.
- June – Watch for signs of maturity: lower leaves begin to yellow. Reduce watering to avoid bulb rot.
- July – Harvest when 5–6 green leaves remain. Cure in a dry, shaded, airy place for 2–3 weeks. Store softneck garlic until spring; enjoy hardneck sooner.
Companion Planting with Garlic

Garlic not only provides delicious bulbs but also acts as a natural pest deterrent in the garden. Its strong scent helps repel aphids, carrot fly, and even slugs to a degree. Garlic pairs well with crops such as carrots, beetroot, strawberries, lettuce, and tomatoes, as it discourages pests while taking up little space. Planting garlic near roses can also help deter greenfly. However, garlic doesn’t get along particularly well with legumes like peas and beans, as it can inhibit their growth. Strategic planting can make your garlic pull double duty: tasty harvests and natural pest protection.

Closing Thoughts

Overwintering garlic is one of the simplest and most rewarding ways to grow. By choosing the right variety for your climate, preparing well-drained soil (containers or raised beds), and giving your cloves a head start in autumn, you’ll enjoy a generous harvest of flavourful bulbs by midsummer. Whether you opt for robust hardnecks long-storing softnecks, or a mixture of both, garlic fits easily into most spaces and even provides benefits to neighbouring plants. With just a little effort in autumn, you’ll be reaping the rewards the following year—garlic that’s fresher, tastier, and more satisfying than anything you’ll find in the shops.

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September 20, 2025
Raised bed gardening
To raise or not to raise?

Growing vegetables in raised garden beds has become increasingly popular among home gardeners, and for good reason. Raised beds provide greater control over soil health, water retention, and pest management compared to planting directly in the ground. They also make gardening more accessible, especially for those with limited mobility or poor-quality soil. While there are upfront costs involved, the long-term benefits often outweigh the initial investment. All that being said, planting vegetables direct into the soil is clearly a good option especially on an allotment, or if growing at scale (market gardening). While I use mostly raised beds I do still plant directly into soil. The soil on our property is very heavy clay which takes time to amend. Consequently, raised beds work well in my situation. The key is to take some time to consider what gardening methods will work for you in your particular situation.

What type of raised beds to choose

When choosing raised beds, many gardeners weigh up the differences between wooden and metal options. Wooden raised beds, often made from untreated cedar or larch, are affordable and easy to build yourself, typically costing between £40–£80 per bed depending on size and timber quality. However, wood does eventually rot and may need replacing every 5–10 years. You can cut the price of wooden beds even further you can use something like a wooden pallet taken apart and reassembled as a raised bed. This will take some work and you will need a few tools, but it’s a relatively simple process. Even more budget friendly if you can get pallets for free (try some of those free sites such as Trash Nothing)

Metal beds, usually made from galvanised steel, are longer-lasting and can withstand weathering for decades. These often cost more upfront from around £60 –£200 per bed depending on width and depth. They are rot resistant, and can be purchased in different in a range of shapes and sizes. So shop around until you find a style and shape that suites your garden aesthetic.

Metal raised bed are generally very easy to put together. They come in sections complete with the screws, nuts, and washers. A small cordless screwdriver will speed up the process of construction, but it’s not essential by any means. The quality of beds can vary, but like most things in life you get what you pay for. I use raised beds from a company called called ‘Estate to Garden’ based in Hampshire UK. Their beds are reasonably priced, the quality is excellent and they offer 5% for new customers quote the code WELCOME5 at checkout. I’m not affiliated in any way, but I’ve been purchasing from them for a few years now and like their products. This is the link if you are in the market for a raised bed https://www.estatetogarden.co.uk/

Whether you choose metal or wood you need to make sure that you have enough soil or compost in which to plant. You are looking for around 12 to 15 inches (about 30 to 38 cm) for most crops. You can get away with about 6 inches (15 cm) for crops with shallow roots such as lettuce, but if you want to be able to plant crops such as carrots you will be looking at at least 8 to 10 inches (17 to 25 cm).

Filling your raised beds

Filling raised beds is another important consideration as the cost can quickly mount if you are filling an 80 cm raised bed with compost alone.

Before you start filling your beds put a few layers of cardboard down as a base for the bed to sit on. You could use organic weed fabric, but carboard boxes are generally free and if you put down two or three layers it will be just as effective. Just make sure each layer overlaps and there are no gaps. Weeds love a gap 👀

If your beds are shallow, layer with some organic material such as dried leaves, fine wood chip, or small twigs or a mixture of all three. Then either garden soil and or compost as your growing medium

One cost-saving, and my preferred method of filling deeper beds is to use hügelkultur. Hügelkultur is a technique where rotting (decomposing) logs, branches, and other organic materials are layered at the bottom of the bed before topping with soil and compost.

My method is as follows:
- Layer 1: decomposing decaying logs
- Layer 2: tree clippings small branches with foliage that is brown and unlikely to root
- Layer 3: garden leaves (luckily we have a lot of trees on our property so leaves are not an issue to source)
- Layer 4: spent (used) compost from pots and my potato bags – I keep all my spent soil in a big bag to use whenever I need a filler
- Layer 5: garden soil (perhaps also include some manure)
- Layer 6: compost about 4 – 5 inches (10 cm)
Filling in this lasagne method not only saves money on filling material but also improves water retention and nutrient cycling as the buried wood slowly decomposes. Over time, hügelkultur beds become self-sustaining and reduce the need for fertilisers, so a good organic gardening option. There are a couple of woods to steer clear of if filling beds in this way. Avoid black walnut as your initial log layer as that can leach toxins and cedar as it will take forever to breakdown.

You will find the soil level of your beds will reduce as the soil and compost settles over time. You can easily top them up with top soil and compost as this happens. My top tip here is to fill you raised bed, then wait a couple of weeks before planting to give the soil a chance to settle and all the layers to get to know each other. That way if the soil level drops significantly you are not in danger of planting into soil that’s not deep enough to support the plant.

Water retention

Water retention in raised beds is generally better controlled than in open ground, especially if you use mulch and organic matter to cover the soil surface. Wooden and metal beds can both dry out faster than in-ground gardens, so regular monitoring is essential. Stick your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle; if it feels dry, it’s time to water. You can also install a simple moisture meter to keep track more accurately. Adding compost annually and rotating crops helps maintain soil structure and fertility without the need for heavy amendments. Raised beds benefit from deep the watering of plants at their base. A layer of mulch around the plants base will also help with water retention and evaporation.

Pest control

A key advantage of raised beds is pest control. Because the growing area is elevated and defined, it’s easier to install barriers such as mesh covers or netting. Raised beds also discourage some crawling pests, like slugs, compared to planting directly in the soil. You’ll deal with fewer problems related to compacted ground, weeds, and soil-borne diseases. And unlike traditional gardens, you won’t need to spend time amending poor soil, since you control exactly what goes into the bed from the start.

Having said that, any kind of raised bed won’t solve pest problems completely. There will still be slugs, snails, caterpillars and various moulds to contend with. However, as plants are raised from the ground and contained, it will at least give you a head start on controlling the critter population. For more on organic methods to control caterpillars see Butterflies can spell trouble for your brassicas

Raised beds can also help with weed control you will find you have generally fewer weeds. The ones that do date to pop up are easier to spot and pull out as the soil is less compacted and freer draining. Again, this method won’t eliminate weeds completely, but will certainly make give you a fighting chance at controlling them. So don’t skimp on your initial cardboard base, as mentioned earlier make this at least 2 or 3 layers thick.

Final thoughts

Lastly, think carefully about where to position your raised beds. Observe your garden space for a few weeks to see which areas get the most sun, where water naturally drains, and whether nearby trees might cast unwanted shade. Remember that raised beds do involve extra costs, whether you build them yourself or purchase ready-made versions. DIY beds can save money if you have basic carpentry skills, while store-bought models save time and effort but require more investment. Either way, the benefits — potentially healthier crops, easier maintenance, and improved yields — make raised beds a smart choice for gardeners looking to grow organic vegetables efficiently.

Gardening friends and colleagues may disagree with my raised bed love affair, but for me it works well – it gives me a degree of control over the plants environment and all the physical work is front loaded with the initial filling. Ideal for this slightly lazy solitaire gardener 😊

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September 2, 2025
What to sow in September
Keeping the garden productive with winter veg

As summer fades into autumn, September in the UK still offers a surprising range of vegetable seeds that can be sown for late harvests or overwintering. With cooler nights and shorter days, it’s important to choose crops suited to the changing season. Many of these vegetables prefer mild conditions, and some will thrive with a little protection under cloches, cold frames, or greenhouses.

Don’t forget you can also plant in pots if space is at a premium, and a cloche can be as simple as a five litre water bottle with the bottom removed and holes poked in the sides for air flow.

Below we will discuss some potential crops to sow in September to keep the garden productive.

Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

Spinach seeds are small, angular, and slightly rough to the touch. They can be sown directly in the soil or in seed trays for later transplanting. Sow seeds about 1/2 to 1 cm deep. In September sowing, direct sowing works well in moist, fertile soil. They prefer a sunny spot but will also tolerate light shade, especially in early autumn. spinach seeds are big enough to handle so plant seeds about 7–10 cm apart. If planting in rows keep a spacing of around 20 – 40 cms between rows. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Spinach seeds will germinate in about 7–14 days at temperatures between 10–20°C. Plants will be ready to harvest in 6–8 weeks, and if you take the outer leaves first you will be able to harvest for months to come.
- Seed shape: small, angular, rough
- Germination: 7–14 days, 10–20°C
- Position: sunny or partial shade
- Maturity: 6–8 weeks
- Watering: consistent, moist soil
Pests & Protection: Spinach is vulnerable to slugs, snails, and leaf miners. Protect young seedlings with cloches or net, use beer traps, finely crushed egg shells, or wool pellets against slugs. Vile as it sounds handpicking slugs at dusk can help keep down the slimy slug population. Companion planting with onions and garlic helps deter leaf miners. If leaf miner occurs, remove affected leaves when first detected.

Spring Onion (Allium fistulosum)

It’s not too late to try a sowing of these tiny, black, and angular seeds. Best sown directly into shallow drills outdoors, but you can also start them in seed trays to transplant later. Germination takes 10–21 days at 13–21°C. They thrive in sunny, well-drained soil and are ready in 8–12 weeks
- Seed shape: tiny, black, angular
- Sowing depth: 1 cm
- Row spacing: 15–20 cm apart, thin seedlings to 2–3 cm
- Germination: 10–21 days, 13–21°C
- Position: full sun, well-drained soil
- Maturity: 8–12 weeks
- Watering: light, regular moisture
Pests & Protection: Vulnerable to onion fly and thrips (thunder flies). Use fine mesh netting, encourage ladybirds, and interplant with carrots.

Cauliflower – All Year Round (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)

Cauliflower seeds are small, round, and dark brown. The “All Year Round” variety can be sown in September through to late October. They can be sown in seed trays or modules, ready for transplanting outdoors once young plants are sturdy. Germination takes 7–12 days at 15–20°C. Cauliflower prefers firm, fertile soil in full sun and benefits from steady watering. Maturity is usually 20–26 weeks, making it a longer-term crop but one well worth the wait for dense, tasty curds (the white part of the cauliflower).
- Seed shape: small, round, dark brown
- Sowing depth: 1 cm
- Row spacing: 60 cm apart, thin or transplant seedlings to 50 cm spacing within rows
- Germination: 7–12 days, 15–20°C
- Position: full sun, fertile, firm soil
- Maturity: 20–26 weeks
- Watering: steady, consistent moisture (avoid drought stress)
Pests & Protection: Cauliflower is vulnerable to cabbage white butterflies, pigeons, clubroot, and aphids. Protect seedlings with fine mesh netting to prevent caterpillars and bird damage. Firm the soil well when transplanting. Interplant with celery, dill, or nasturtiums to deter pests. Regular checks for aphids can be managed with a neem oil spray or by encouraging beneficial insects such as ladybirds. When using neem oil, follow the instructions on the bottle and don’t overconcentrate the solution. Too concentrated will leave too much oil on your plants that will easily fry in the sun.

Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

Lettuce seeds are tiny, oval, and flat. They germinate in 7–10 days at 10–18°C. Can be direct sown under cloches or started in trays. Prefers sun or light shade. Plants mature in 6–10 weeks and need consistent moisture. Lettuces also do really well in pots, just make sure the pot has the depth of at least 50 cm. so they can put down strong root.
- Seed shape: tiny, oval, light brown
- Sowing depth: 0.5 cm (surface sow with light covering)
- Row spacing: 25–30 cm apart, thin seedlings to 15–20 cm
- Germination: 7–10 days, 10–18°C
- Position: sunny or partial shade
- Maturity: 6–10 weeks
- Watering: regular, avoid waterlogging
Pests & Protection: Lettuce is susceptible to slugs, snails, and aphids. Use beer traps, seaweed mulch, netting and encourage beneficial insects. Interplant with chives or garlic for natural deterrence. Again it may sound gross, but hand remove slugs at dusk if possible. If growing in pots get yourself some copper electricians taps and wrap it round the middle of your pot. It is said that slugs and snails won’t slither over the tape. Although I have to say that’s no guarantee 😊

Radish (Raphanus sativus)

Radish seeds are small, round, and reddish-brown. They germinate in 4–7 days at 8–20°C. Quick-growing, they dislike transplanting, so sow direct. Maturity in just 3–4 weeks
- Seed shape: small, round, reddish-brown
- Sowing depth: 1 cm
- Row spacing: 15 cm apart, thin seedlings to 2–3 cm
- Germination: 4–7 days, 8–20°C
- Position: full sun, light soil
- Maturity: 3–4 weeks
- Watering: regular to prevent splitting
Pests & Protection: Vulnerable to flea beetles and cabbage root maggots. Use horticultural fleece and companion plant with nasturtiums as trap crops. Rotate to prevent soil-borne pests.

Pak Choi (Brassica rapa var. chinensis)

Pak choi seeds are small, round, and dark brown. They germinate in 7–10 days at 10–25°C. Can be direct sown or in seed trays to transplant later. Plants mature in 6–8 weeks, thriving in sun or partial shade.
- Seed shape: small, round, dark brown
- Sowing depth: 1 cm
- Row spacing: 30 cm apart, thin seedlings to 20–25 cm
- Germination: 7–10 days, 10–25°C
- Position: sunny or partial shade
- Maturity: 6–8 weeks
- Watering: consistent, avoid drying out
Pests & Protection: Targeted by cabbage whites, flea beetles, and slugs. Use fine mesh netting, organic straw mulches, and beer traps. Companion plant with mint or dill to confuse pests

Broad Beans (Vicia faba)

Broad beans are large, flat, and kidney-shaped. Sow direct in drills for overwintering. Seeds germinate in 7–14 days at 8–15°C. They prefer sun and fertile soil. September sowings mature in spring–early summer. Broad beans also do really well in pots, as ever just make sure your pots are deep enough.
- Seed shape: large, flat, kidney-shaped
- Sowing depth: 5 cm
- Row spacing: 45 cm apart, plants 20 cm within rows
- Germination: 7–14 days, 8–15°C
- Position: full sun, fertile soil
- Maturity: harvest in spring–early summer
- Watering: water well when pods form
Pests & Protection: Often attacked by blackfly. Prevent by pinching out growing tips after flowering. Encourage ladybirds and plant marigolds or nasturtiums nearby as diversions. Cloches protect overwintered seedlings from slugs.

👉 In summary, September in the UK and potentially other more temperate climates still provides plenty of opportunities to sow seeds. By paying attention to sowing depth, row spacing, and organic pest management, you can enjoy organic crops throughout the autumn and winter months.

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August 27, 2025
How to grow Kale Organically
From seed to harvest

3 types of Kale

In recent years the humble kale (Brassica oleracea) has become something of a garden hero with it’s elevation to a ‘superfood’ in 2008. It is said to have more absorbable calcium than a small carton of semi skimmed milk. It’s rich in vitamins A, C, E, and K and contains folate, magnesium and potassium. So no surprises that it’s status as a health food from kale chips to smoothies is cemented in our current thinking.

From the classic curly green types to the elegant Cavolo Nero (Tuscan kale) and the striking Red Russian, there’s a kale for every plate and every plot. Growing this healthy vegetable organically is easier than you might think. Whether starting it in seed/module trays for transplanting when true leave appear or sowing directly in the ground. Below we will go over each step with some tips and hints along the way.

Growing Kale in Module Trays

Planting: Kale seeds are small, dark, and round, rather like tiny peppercorns. To sow in trays, choose a peat-free seed compost and fill your modules or tray to the top. Water the compost prior to sowing. Place one seed per cell at about 1/2 to 1 cm deep, or about 3 cm apart if using a seed tray. Cover the seed with the compost and firm in gently to ensure the seed has good contact with the soil. Keep the compost consistently moist, not soggy, as I always say they are seeds, not ducks, no plant like soggy feet.

Germination: Kale germinates best between 15–20°C, so in the UK or USDA zone 9, sowing from April to June will give summer crops a good start, while July to September sowings are perfect for overwintering varieties that will sweeten in the frost. This means that you can pretty much have an almost year round supply of this healthy veg.

Planting out: The seedlings first produce rounded seed leaves (cotyledons), followed by their true leaves—miniature versions of the kale variety you’re growing, complete with curly, flat, or spear-shaped edges. When they have 3–4 true leaves, they’re ready to move outdoors. Harden them off for a week first by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions. Transplant into rich, fertile soil that’s been improved with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure, spacing each row about 45 cm apart and each plant about 50 cm apart. You can get away with reducing the spacing for something like ‘Cavolo Nero’ which doesn’t fill out quite as much. Although spacing is important, I wouldn’t fret too much if you are a few centimetres out. When transplanting into it’s final position firm the soil around the base of the plant. The brassica family like to feel secure in the ground. I always go round the base of the plant with my fists to compress the soil a little to ensure stability. Once in the ground give it a good drink.

Care and Pests: Kale loves an open, sunny position with free-draining soil. It’s also tolerant of cooler weather, which makes it a reliable crop in temperate climates. Once established, plants need little care beyond watering in dry spells and keeping an eye out for pests. In summer, flea beetles can riddle the leaves with holes and slugs can be an issue at ground level, so organic barriers such as crushed eggshells, wool pellets, or beer traps can be effective. Cabbage white caterpillars and pigeons, are partial to kale and can cause significant damage to your plant. So be vigilant, hand picking caterpillars from the plant or using a garlic wash/spray can help keep infestations down. Netting your crop will also help but make sure there are no holes or gaps. Butterflies are beautiful, but you don’t want them laying eggs on you kale leading to a caterpillar party on your kale leaves. Even with netting, I would still check for pest every couple of days. Mulching with compost or straw helps conserve moisture and keeps weeds down, giving your kale the best chance to thrive.

You’ll usually be ready to harvest leaves 8–10 weeks after sowing. Pick the lower or outer leaves first and keep the central crown intact for ongoing production right through the season.

Sowing tips summery for starting in seed trays
- Seeds are small, dark, and round—sow one per cell, about 1 cm deep.
  - Use peat-free seed compost and keep the soil moist (not waterlogged).
  - Germination is best at 15–20°C (7–10 days to sprout).
- When to sow
  - April–June → for summer/autumn crops
  - July–October → for overwintering crops (sweeter after frost)
- Transplanting
  - Harden off seedlings with 3–4 true leaves before planting out.
  - Space rows about 45 cm apart in fertile, well-drained soil enriched with compost or manure.
  - space each plant about 50 cm apart
  - Kale thrives in sun but tolerates partial shade.
- Pest protection
  - Use fine mesh or netting to protect from pigeons and cabbage white butterflies.
  - Hand-pick caterpillars or try organic garlic spray if infestations build.
- Harvest
  - Ready 8–10 weeks after sowing.
  - Pick lower or outer leaves first, leaving the central crown to keep producing.
Growing Kale Directly in the Ground

Planting: If you prefer to keep things simple, sowing direct into the soil can be just as effective. Prepare your chosen kale patch by removing weeds and adding in plenty of organic matter or peat free compost from a reputable garden centre. You can then either sow seeds thinly in shallow drills about 1 cm deep, leaving around 45 cm between rows and thin out later leaving only the strongest plants (like you might thin carrots). Alternatively sow individual seeds about 50 to 60 cm (24 inches) apart. This is obviously a slightly longer process and a wee bit more fiddly, but cuts out the need to thin out the weaker plants later. Either way leave about 45 cm (17 inches) between each row. I much prefer trying to sow seeds individually as I always feel a little guilty about the seedlings that are discarded when thinning out 😂

Cover the rows with compost and firm in gently. Water each row being careful not to disturb the newly planted seeds (a watering can with a rose attachment will work best). Don’t blast them with a hose as you risk disturbing the soil and dislodging the seed.

Seedlings usually appear (usually within 7–10 days). Proper spacing improves airflow, which lowers the risk of pests and disease. Keep the area as weed free as possible and keep moist – again they are seeds not ducks! so avoid waterlogged soil.

Protection: By the time true leaves appear, you’ll already notice their characteristic kale shape. Protect seedlings with netting that is well secured without gaps if you can. To avoid repeating myself, refer to the paragraph on Care and pests in the planting in seed trays section above. It contains tips on controlling pests like slugs and caterpillars.

Maturing and Harvesting: Your kale plants should take around 40 to 75 days to fully mature. However, if you grow them for use as baby greens, you may be able to harvest them in as little as 4 to 6 weeks. Harvesting is best done gradually. Pick the outer leaves as you need them. This allows the plant to keep producing from the centre. This “cut-and-come-again” approach means one kale plant can feed you for months. In fact, kale is biennial, meaning it grows leaves in its first year and flowers in its second. If you keep harvesting regularly and don’t let the plant get too stressed, it will remain productive until spring. Left unharvested, it will eventually bolt—sending up flower stalks and going to seed.

Sowing tips summary for direct planting
- Sowing tips
  - Prepare the ground with compost or manure.
  - Sow seeds thinly in shallow drills (1 cm deep), rows 45 cm apart.
  - Thin seedlings gradually, let the strongest plants grow on
- When to sow
  - for summer/autumn crops
  - July–September → for overwintering crops (sweeter after frost)
- Protection & care
  - Cover seedlings with netting against flea beetles and pigeons.
  - Use organic slug controls: crushed eggshells, wool pellets, or beer traps.
  - Mulch with compost or straw to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
- Harvest
  - Pick outer leaves regularly (“cut-and-come-again”).
  - Plants stay productive from summer into winter and early spring.
  - Kale is biennial → best harvest in year one, goes to seed in year two.
Whether sowing directly into the soil or starting in seed trays, take steps to ensure a steady supply. Try succession sowing every 3–4 weeks during the main season.

Kale also benefits from companion planting: growing it alongside onions, garlic, or herbs like dill can help deter pests naturally. Because kale is a heavy feeder, rotate it with legumes (such as beans or peas) in following seasons. This will help add nitrogen to the soil so improving soil health.

Don’t forget that if your space is limited you can try growing in pots. You can pop a few seeds in a pot as you would for direct sowing and thin out as they start to grow. Or transplant one of your seed tray seedlings when it has it true leaves. Make sure your pot has good drainage, is at least 30 cm (10 to 12 inches) deep, and mulch around the top to lock in moisture. I would also consider covering with a piece of netting to protect from those pesky caterpillars.

Finally, don’t be afraid to experiment with different varieties of kale. Cavolo Nero’s long, dark leaves are stunning in both the garden and on the plate. Red Russian offers a softer, sweeter leaf with striking purple veins. The classic curly kale remains a tough, winter-hardy staple. With good soil, a little protection, and steady harvesting, your kale patch can keep you in fresh greens for much of the year.

For more tips on growing hardy superfoods see this post Grow your own spinach or for beginner organic gardeners see How to start your first organic veg garden

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August 23, 2025
How to Start Your First Organic Vegetable Garden
A beginners guide

Starting an organic vegetable garden is one of the most rewarding ways to grow your own fresh, healthy food at home. Whether you have a spacious garden or a small balcony, this beginner-friendly ‘first steps’ guide will help you get started with the basics.

Organic gardening is both practical, and I guess philosophical. The premise is eliminating the use of manufactured chemicals, therefore limiting the damage to interdependent eco systems. For example the dreaded blue chemical slug pellets. While effective in controlling the slug population, they also damage other insects and can affect soil health. Organic gardening is about ensuring good soil health, and working with nature rather than trying to control her with chemicals.

So if you want to tread a little lighter on the planet and grow some good nutritious food, below are some simple tips to get you started.

1. Choosing the Right Location

Your garden’s success starts with picking the right planting spot. Most vegetables need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day to grow well. Obviously, this is not possible in many regions but you are looking for the sunniest patch you can find for summer veg. Winter veg will tolerate some shade, but they are not total vampires and will need some sunlight, which is why we plant them in late summer, as it gives them the last of sunshine to get established.

Look for an area with good drainage (no puddles after rain) and enough space to plant your chosen vegetables comfortably. Most vegetables don’t like permanently soggy feet, just remember they’re plants, not ducks!

Before you commit to planting anything, spend a few weeks observing your garden space at different times of the day. Notice which areas get the most sun in the morning, midday, and afternoon, and which are shaded. This will help you match sun-loving plants (like tomatoes and courgettes/zucchini) to the brightest spots, and reserve partially shaded areas for crops that can tolerate less direct sun, such as lettuce or spinach. If space is tight, consider raised beds or container gardening to make the most of your area. I’m a great proponent of raised bed gardening as it cuts down on weeding and can help with drainage. Some raised beds can be quite expensive and large to fill, so my suggestion is to use what you have. All you’re really looking for is something to contain the soil, a rectangle of house bricks two or three rows high, some breeze blocks, or some simple wooden boards will all suffice. Whatever you choose, just make sure there is drainage. Also remember that if you are using untreated wood, after a few years it will start to rot and break down.

2. Preparing Your Soil

Healthy soil is the foundation of an organic garden.

Testing your soil: Test your soil’s texture and pH — you can buy an easy soil test kit at a garden centre or online.
Testing your soil is important because it tells you whether your soil is acidic, neutral, or alkaline, and whether it’s sandy, loamy, or clay-heavy. This helps you decide which crops will thrive naturally in your soil and whether you need to add organic matter or adjust pH levels to suit your chosen plants. Testing your soil is definitely best practice, but if I’m honest I don’t always test soil. So, while soil testing it is best practice, and will ensure your plants get the right nutrients. It not the end of the world if you don’t. You will learn over time which plants struggle in your soil and which will thrive.

Organic compost: add plenty of organic compost to enrich the soil with nutrients. Spread a 5–7 cm (2–3 inch) layer of compost on top and gently fork it into the top 15 cm (6 inches) of soil. This improves texture, water retention, and fertility. Unless you have access to plenty of home grown compost, you will need to purchase few bags from the garden centre. To stay loyal to the principles of organic growing go for ‘peat fee’ compost.:

Try a no dig solution: Once you have identified your growing spot, lay down a couple of layers of cardboard and pop your compost on top. The cardboard will help act as a weed barrier. This is where some kind of raised bed can be helpful to contain the soil. If you are using this method I would recommend at least 7 inches of compost. This will allow the plant roots to spread and anchor themselves. Brassicas in particular like their roots to feel firm and secure in soil.

Mulching around your plants with straw, shredded leaves, grass clippings, or wood shavings helps keep moisture in and weeds down.

3. Selecting Easy Vegetables to Grow

As a beginner, choose vegetables that are known for being easy to grow and quick to harvest. This will not only give you a crop, but will also help you learn about your growing conditions, your soil and how a plant develops.

Here are a few great options:
- Lettuce: Fast-growing and perfect for salads.
- Radishes: Ready to harvest in just a few weeks.
- Runner beans/pole beans: Produce a good yield with minimal fuss.
- Courgettes/zucchini: Very productive and tolerant of various conditions.
- Carrots: Grow well in loose soil and don’t require much care.
- Garlic: easy to grow and don’t require too much care, but do take longer to mature
- Herbs: most herbs are fairly easy to grow,
Start small — it’s better to succeed with a few crops than get overwhelmed, and remember grow what you like to eat. If you don’t like to eat it, don’t grow it.

If your a little impatient (which we all are from time to time) you don’t need to grow everything from seed. You can buy small plants normally called ‘starts’ at a reputable garden centre. Look for healthy robust starts and get them in the ground or your chosen pot as soon as possible.

4. Tools You’ll Need

You don’t need a lot of fancy kit to get started, but a few basics make gardening easier:
- A small trowel for digging and planting
- Gardening gloves to protect your hands
- A watering can or hose with a gentle spray nozzle
- A garden fork or hoe for soil preparation (optional but useful)
- A pair of secateurs, these are great for cutting and snipping anything from string to small stems and twigs.
- Containers if not planting direct into the ground. You can use module trays and seed trays from the garden centre. However, as long as you poke some holes in the base for drainage pretty much anything will do – yoghurt pots, the kids little fromage frais pots, egg cartons,
Keep your tools clean and stored in a dry place to make them last.

5. Planting Your Garden

Follow the seed packet or plant label instructions for planting depth and spacing. Sow seeds directly into prepared soil or start seedlings indoors in a sunny spot and transplant them once they’re strong enough.

When we say “strong enough,” we mean the seedlings have developed their first set of “true leaves” — these are the leaves that appear after the initial seed leaves (cotyledons). Seed leaves are usually smooth, simple and the first to appear., Their main job is to feed the young plant until it can photosynthesise on its own. True leaves look more like the adult leaves of the plant and indicate the seedling is ready to cope with outdoor conditions. Don’t be too keen to get seeds planted in seed trays or modules in the ground. You want those first true leaves to look healthy and established, before transferring them to their final growing spot.

Water the soil gently but thoroughly after planting, and keep it consistently moist until seedlings emerge.

6. Maintaining Your Garden

Water your plants regularly — most vegetables prefer about 2.5 cm (1 inch) of water per week. Early morning watering is ideal because it allows plants to absorb moisture before the day warms up, reducing stress from heat and evaporation loss. It also means leaves dry out quickly, which helps prevent fungal diseases.
If you water in the evening, plants still benefit from the moisture, but damp leaves overnight can sometimes encourage fungal problems — especially in cool, humid weather. If evenings are your only option, water at the base of plants to keep foliage dry and reduce risk
- Handpicking visible insects like caterpillars (kids love doing this and transferring them to a bug hotel)
- Planting companion plants (e.g., marigolds to deter aphids) Companion planting is the process of planting a specific plant near the plant you want to protect. The companion plant can help to either attract beneficial insects or deter pests.
- Using natural sprays like neem oil (follow the instructions and don’t under-dilute) Some people swear by very diluted soapy water in a spray bottle. You could also try a garlic solution which can help deter pests. Pop 2/4 cloves of garlic cut into quarters into a spray bottle, fill with water and leave for about a week. It will then be ready to spay onto your plants.
Prevention is belter than cure when it comes to pests – observe your plants on a regular basis, and take action early. Netting can be your friend and there are plenty of articles and help online around specific pests and disease.

7. Harvesting Your Vegetables

Harvest vegetables when they’re ripe but still tender. For example, pick lettuce leaves young for best flavour, or harvest beans when pods are firm but before seeds bulge. Your seed packets should give you an indication when the plant will be ready to harvest. Most seed packets have a small calendar that will indicate the best months to ‘sow’ ‘plant outside’ & ‘harvest’. You can also find many online guides that will give you the optimum growing window for each plant. If you order your seeds online this information is often supplied by the seed seller.

Regular harvesting encourages plants to produce more. Use clean scissors or your secateurs to avoid damaging plants.

Final Thoughts

Starting your first organic vegetable garden is easier than you might think. Take it step-by-step, be patient, and don’t get discouraged if things don’t work the first time. My advice would be to sow seeds about every 2 – 3 weeks to ensure you have backup options. So if your first seeds don’t germinate or get damaged when planted out, you will be safe in the knowledge that you have more on the way.

With practice, you’ll soon be harvesting fresh vegetables you grew yourself — healthy, delicious, and chemical-free.

For more beginner tips, check out my other posts Labelling: Simple, but vital, Starting with Herbs, or Grow your own spinach: A year round superfood for the garden

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August 19, 2025
Rosemary – not just a pretty name.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is an evergreen shrub which can grow up to about 5 ft (1.5m) tall.

It is a wonderfully aromatic and versatile herb that is a must in any kitchen garden. Whether you’re growing it from seed, starting with plug plants, planting it in the ground, or tending it in pots, rosemary rewards you with year-round greenery and flavour. Though it’s a Mediterranean native, with the right care, rosemary can thrive in a wide range of climates including here in the U.K.

Technically Rosemary is a type of sage – it was moved into the genus salvia in 2019 (who knew). This makes it a really good companion for those other drought tolerant herbs such as thyme and lavender.

Starting Out: Seeds vs Plug Plants

Growing rosemary from seed can be slow and challenging. Germination is often unreliable and can take 2–4 weeks.

If you want to grow it from seed it’s best to use a heated propagator or a warm windowsill, be patient, and sow a few seeds every week or so to avoid disappointment.

Plug plants are a quicker and more reliable option—perfect for beginners or anyone eager to harvest sooner. When planting plugs in pots, ensure the pot is at least 20–30 cm wide with good drainage holes. If planting directly in the ground, space plants about 45–60 cm apart to allow airflow and growth.

Soil, Positioning, and Feeding

Rosemary loves a warm, sunny spot with well-drained soil, a south-facing wall or balcony would be ideal.

If you have heavy clay soil it’s a good idea to mix in some grit. If growing in pots general compost should be fine, but again mixing with a little grit won’t do your plant any harm.

Avoid over-watering; rosemary hates wet feet. Feed sparingly with a balanced organic fertilizer in spring and again in midsummer if growing in pots. In the ground, once-established rosemary rarely needs extra feeding.

Growth, Pruning, and Harvesting

As it grows, rosemary becomes a woody shrub, and can get quite unruly if not pruned. To keep it compact and bushy, prune lightly after flowering (usually in late spring or early summer). Avoid cutting into old wood as it may not resprout. You can harvest sprigs at any time once the plant is established—usually after the first full growing season. Cut above a leaf node to encourage branching.

In the Kitchen and Storage Tips

Rosemary’s strong, pine-like aroma beautifully enhances a range of savoury dishes. Use it in roasted meats, potatoes, focaccia bread, tomato sauces, and even infused oils or teas. For long-term storage, dry sprigs in a warm, dark place until brittle, then store in airtight jars. You can also freeze whole sprigs or chop and mix them with olive oil in ice cube trays for quick use in cooking.

🌱 Top Tips for Luscious, Productive Rosemary
- 🪴 Choose a sunny, well-drained spot – Rosemary thrives in full sun and hates soggy soil.
- 🌱 Start from plug plants for quicker results – Seeds are slow and less reliable.
- 🚿 Avoid overwatering – Let the soil dry out between watering sessions.
- ✂️ Prune lightly after flowering – Keeps the plant bushy and productive.
- 🌿 Harvest regularly but sparingly – Take sprigs as needed without overcutting.
- 🍽️ Use in hearty dishes – Pairs well with lamb, chicken, roasted vegetables, and bread.
- 🧊 Store by drying or freezing – Extend its use all year long.
Whether in a pot or in a garden border, rosemary is a low-maintenance but high-reward herb. With the right care, it’ll become a fragrant fixture in your cooking and garden for years to come.

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June 27, 2025
Labelling: simple but vital
The Power of the Plant Tag: Why Labelling Your Vegetable Seeds Matters

Two young plants that at first sight look very similar. On the right is celery on the left celeriac.

Planting a vegetable patch is an exciting adventure, filled with the promise of fresh homegrown goodness. However, in the initial enthusiasm it’s easy to overlook a crucial step: labeling your seeds when planted.

Taking a few extra moments to label your seeds immediately after planting can save you a world of confusion, misidentification, and frustration later on. While it might seem like a minor detail in the grand scheme of things, taking a few seconds to clearly mark what you’ve planted can save you a world of confusion and potential disappointment down the line. Proper labelling eliminates guesswork, ensuring you can accurately track the progress of each variety and provide the specific care it needs.

Beyond simple identification, labels become invaluable as your garden matures. Knowing exactly what you planted allows you to anticipate harvest times and plan your meals accordingly. It also helps you observe the particular characteristics of each plant, noting which varieties thrive in your specific soil and microclimate. Furthermore, if you’re saving seeds for future planting, accurate labelling is absolutely essential to maintain the integrity of each variety. Without clear markers, you risk cross-pollination and the unintentional creation of hybrid plants, potentially losing the desirable traits of the original seeds.

In essence, labelling your vegetable seeds is an act of foresight and organisation that pays dividends throughout the growing season. It transforms your garden from a collection of anonymous green shoots into a well-documented and manageable space. So, grab your labels and make sure each tiny seed has its name proudly displayed – your future gardening self will thank you!

Why Early Labelling Is Important
1. Avoid Misidentification: Many seedlings look nearly identical in their early stages. Without a label, distinguishing between celeriac from celery or cauliflower from cabbage can be next to impossible even as the plants start to mature.
2. Better Care Planning: Different vegetables have different watering, spacing, and feeding needs. Accurate labels ensure each plant gets the care it needs from day one.
3. Track Germination: Labeling allows you to keep track of when and where seeds were planted, making it easier to monitor germination success or failure.
4. Succession Planting: If you’re planning multiple crops in the same bed, labels help you manage timelines and avoid overcrowding or forgotten crops.
5. Seed Saving: Knowing exactly what you planted is essential for collecting seeds at the end of the season, especially for heirloom varieties.
6. You won’t remember: If I had a gold coin for every time I have said to myself that I don’t need to label because I will remember – then I would be a very rich woman. No matter the intention you won’t remember to go back and label 70% of the time. So again, label the second that seed hits the soil.
Types of Plant Labels

You don’t need anything fancy, but a little forethought helps. Here are some reliable options:
- Plastic or Bamboo Plant Tags: Widely available and reusable. Write with a permanent marker or pencil for best longevity.
- Wooden lolly Sticks: Affordable and biodegradable, great for indoor or short-term use. I say indoor because it makes no real difference what type of marker/pen or pencil you use eventually with a bit of rain or watering the lettering will smudge and you’re right back where you started.
- Repurposed Items: Cut up old blinds, yogurt tubs, into lables. Even flat stones make excellent DIY labels. It might be worth popping a splash of varnish (clear nail varnish will do) over the lettering as equally the text will wash off over time.
- Printable Garden Labels: These can be laminated for weatherproofing and aesthetics.
- Digital Garden Maps: Not physical labels, but helpful for larger gardens where a master plan can guide your layout. Having said that, if you’re anything like me I can plan all I want to but will still plant randomly if my plan isn’t to hand.
Tips for Staying Organised
1. Create a Labelling Kit: Keep a small box with labels, a waterproof marker, twine, and scissors near to where you are planting your seeds.
2. Label straight away: Make it a rule—no seed goes in the soil without a label going in right after. Delaying even by a few minutes can mean you move onto something else and forget.
3. Use Abbreviations for Small Spaces: If you’re short on room, create a shorthand system—just be sure to note it somewhere! Perhaps keep it in your labeling kit box.
4. Colour-Code by Plant Type: Use coloured labels or pens to distinguish herbs, vegetables, or flowers at a glance.
5. Keep a Garden Journal: Record what you planted and where. If a label fades or disappears, your journal can save the day.
6. Use both sides of your label: You can use both sides of your label especially those little white plastic ones. Yes I know it’s plastic, but they are significantly cheaper than some of the more fancy garden centre labels. If you intend to use the clean side of your label for some of this years seeds or event next year, make sure you cross out the text on the used side. Nothing more frustrating than having a label with writing on both sides and not knowing which is which.
Your Future Self will Thank You

Good labelling isn’t just about staying organised today. Later in the season, you’ll be glad you made the effort. From harvest planning to crop rotation next year, having a clear record of what was planted where, can improve your yields and reduce the risk of disease. It’s also a huge help if you want to share tips or seeds with other gardeners—or just avoid that courgette/zucchini overload you accidentally caused last year!

Final Thought

Labelling may seem like an insignificant task compared to digging or watering, but trust me it will save a whole lot of hassle later on. A little organisation early on leads to a smoother, more successful growing season. So next time you open that seed packet, grab your marker too—you’ll thank yourself later

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May 19, 2025