Solitaire Gardener

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  • Dehydrate Garlic This January: Save Flavour and Prevent Waste

    Why Garlic Softens Over Winter & Why January Is the Right Time to Act

    A food dehydrator filled with trays of sliced garlic in a kitchen setting, with whole garlic bulbs on the countertop.

    By mid to late January in the UK, stored garlic often starts to change. Even in cool sheds or cupboards, bulbs can slowly lose firmness as heating is ratcheted up & humidity fluctuates. While some of your garlic may no longer be ideal for long term storage through to summer, it is usually still perfectly good to eat. Acting now by dehydrating it preserves flavour, prevents waste, and gives you a reliable supply of garlic well into the year ahead.

    As a general rule I check my pantry stored garlic pretty much every week at this time of year. When I say check, I mean I actively ferret around in the mesh storage bag for bulbs or cloves that do not feel firm to the touch. If I only have a few bulbs I will pop them in the Rayburn (like an AGA and constantly on a low heat). If once prepped, I think I have enough to fill a few trays I will put them in the dehydrator.

    In this post we will look at the different way to approach dehydrating garlic for longer term storage. You don’t need to rush out and by a dehydrator this can also be done in an oven. A small dehydrator will set you back anywhere between £30 to £60, with a large fancy one setting you back significantly more! My best advice if you are in the market for a dehydrator is to start with a smaller, cheaper model, & honestly assess how often you use it before shelling out for a larger model. Dehydrators are useful pieces of kit, & may well save you money over a period of years given the price of gas in the UK. However, it’s not essential certainly if you are just starting your preserving journey.

    For more information on growing your own garlic this post might be helpful Overwintering Garlic: A New Growers Guide

    Preparing Garlic for Dehydration

    Start by breaking your garlic bulbs into cloves, discarding any that are mouldy or badly damaged (soft alone is fine). Peel the cloves and slice them thinly – about 2–3 mm (⅛ inch), the thinner the slice the quicker they will dry. Uniform slices are important because thicker pieces can trap moisture and spoil later.

    Once you have prepped your garlic you can dry it in a few ways. I will say at this point that in the UK at this time of year it’s clearly not going to be dried by the sun 😂

    Dehydrating Garlic: Multiple Methods That Work

    The dehydrator method: Peel and slice each clove into spread slices in a single layer and dry at 50 – 55°C (120–130°F) for 6–10 hours until brittle. Your dehydrator may have a handbook or instruction manual that will also offer specific information your particular machine.

    The oven method: Place the small slices on a baking sheet and use the lowest setting (often 60–70°C / 140–160°F), prop the door slightly open, and turn slices occasionally. Again spread out the slices so air can circulate allowing them to dry more evenly.

    The air-dry method: You can airdry garlic in a warm, well-ventilated room, though this takes several days and works best in dry, stable conditions. This is probably not the best method for most homes in the UK as there will undoubtedly be some humidity.

    In all cases the garlic is ready when it breaks easily and feels brittle. If you are in any doubt leave it a bit longer, any moisture will mean your final product will spoil more quickly.

    Turning Dried Garlic into Flakes or Powder

    Once fully dry and cooled, garlic slices can be stored as flakes or ground into powder. For flakes, lightly crush by hand or pulse briefly in a food processor. For powder, blend longer and sift out any larger pieces.

    Useful tip: grind only small batches if you want garlic powder, as garlic powder loses potency faster than whole flakes. Interestingly, dehydrated garlic often tastes stronger than fresh because the flavour compounds become more concentrated. Generally I find that a 1/4 teaspoon of garlic powder equates to about 2 cloves of garlic. However, you will need to play around with this and adjust for your taste. There’s probably more consistency i.e. 1/4 teaspoon to 1 clove when using shop bought garlic powder, but with homegrown and home dried there are too many variables to maintain that level of consistency.

    Safe Storage for Long-Term Use

    Store dried garlic flakes or powder in airtight jars, ideally glass, and kept in a cool, dark place as you would any other herb or spice. Add a food-safe silica gel sachet or a small amount of dry rice to help absorb any moisture that might build up. Properly dried and stored garlic can last 12 months or more when stored properly. Always check for clumping, off smells, or moisture as these will all be signs that you may need to re-dry or to start again. I don’t need to tell you not to ingest anything you are not 100% sure are safe to consume. Done right, dehydrating garlic turns a potential loss into one of the most useful pantry staples you can make.

    Final Thoughts

    January is a perfect checkpoint for stored garlic. What won’t comfortably last until your next harvest doesn’t need to be wasted. Whether you use flakes or powder, home-preserved garlic is often stronger, cleaner tasting, and far more satisfying than shop-bought alternatives.

    At a glance:
    • Soft garlic in winter is normal and still usable
    • Dehydrate before sprouting starts for best flavour
    • Dehydrators are most reliable but ovens are a good alternative
    • Flakes store longer than powder, but both are useful
    • Keep airtight, dry, and dark for up to a year or more

    A small job in January can save months of waste, and give you one of the most useful staples in your kitchen.

    If you have any tips for dehydrating your garlic please do share them in the comments.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

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  • What Vegetable Seeds to Sow in Late January: A planting Guide for Beginners

    A person gardening indoors in a greenhouse during winter, surrounded by snow. They are sowing seeds in a tray.

    January in the UK is very much a “behind the scenes” gardening month, but there is plenty you can be getting on with if you want to take the chance. With soil cold, wet and often frozen, most vegetable seeds need significant protection, warmth and good light to get going. With last frost dates in the UK falling somewhere between late April and late May depending on region, anything sown now will have to spend a good while indoors or undercover before they can be planted out. The key is to match each crop to the right conditions: warmth for germination, steady moisture, and enough light to prevent weak, leggy growth.

    In this blog we will look at what seeds you might want to start in January and the conditions needed to keep them healthy until planting out time. Before we start, I do need to say that planting in January is not essential and you shouldn’t feel pushed into planting seeds early. You have plenty of time and it’s not the end of the world if you wait a few more weeks or even a month or so. You do you 😊

    And don’t forget to always label you seeds whatever you are planting see ‘Labelling: simple but vital ‘ for guidance on labelling your sowings.

    Chillies, sweet peppers and aubergines can be sow early as they need a long growing season. Sow seeds about ¼ inch (0.5 cm) deep in small modules or seed trays filled with fine, free-draining compost. They germinate best at 21–27°C, (70–80°F) so make sure the seeds have a heat mat, an airing cupboard or warm shelf ideal until shoots appear, this is usually in 7–14 days. Once you have visible shoots move them into bright light. A south-facing windowsill or under grow lights will be fine. Keep compost just moist rather than wet. These plants will stay indoors until after the last frost and are usually planted outside or into an unheated greenhouse in late May or even early June, once nights stay above 10°C (50°F). This means your plants will need to stay indoors for some time, so will need attention to ensure they don’t get cold or leggy. From the first shoots to outside ready I generally wrap mine in some fleece at night as the temperature in the house drops overnight. During the day I keep I keep a them under a plastic closh which covers the seed tray, and keeps them in their own wee microclimate.

    Onions, leeks and early salad crops like winter lettuce can also be started in January. Onions and leeks are best sown thinly in trays, covering seeds with about ½ inch (1 cm) of compost. They germinate in 10 –14 days at around 10 –18°C. (50 – 65°F) and don’t need a heat mat, they should be fine on a windowsill in a seed tray with a closh/ clear plastic lid or in a frost-free greenhouse. Even in a greenhouse I would also use a plastic or glass closh or cover to add further protection. Keep compost evenly moist and give them as much light as possible. They’ll grow slowly at first, producing grass-like leaves, and can be planted out from March or April once soil is workable and no longer waterlogged. Lettuce can be sown shallowly, barely covered with compost, as it needs light to germinate, and will sprout in 7–10 days in cool but bright conditions.

    If you have a sheltered garden or heavy protection such a fleece, there are a few seeds that can be sown direct even in January. Broad beans are the standout option. Choose hardy varieties such as Aguadulce, and sow seeds 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) apart into soil that is not frozen and drains well. A cloche (row cover) or fleece is strongly recommended to protect seedlings from frost and birds. Broad beans germinate slowly in winter, often taking 2–3 weeks, and growth will be minimal until days lengthen. They prefer cool conditions, need little extra watering at this time of year, and benefit from soaking seeds overnight to speed germination.

    Peas can also be started now, but are usually more reliable under cover. Sow them in deep modules or small pots, about 1–1½ inches (3 – 4 cm) deep, and keep them in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame. They germinate in 10–14 days at cool temperatures and don’t need much heat, just protection from hard frost. Light is important to keep growth sturdy, and watering should be modest. Seedlings can be planted out from March, depending on soil condition, with protection if cold weather returns. My best advice is to have a closh at the ready even when planted out and keep a good eye on the weather for colder snaps

    Across all January sowings, water lightly but consistently. Cold, wet compost is the fastest way to lose seedlings. Good drainage is essential, especially for indoor sowings, and bright light after germination is just as important as warmth before it. Soil outside should only be used if it crumbles easily in the hand rather than sticking together, a sign it’s ready to work. By starting the right vegetables now, using windowsills, airing cupboards, heated pads, grow lights or heated greenhouses or cloches as needed, you set yourself up for strong, healthy plants that are ready to thrive once spring truly arrives.

    You can also start chilli seeds in January. Sow them indoors as it’s far too cold outside not even an outside closh or heated greenhouse will be warm enough for the seeds to germinate. Use small pots or a seed tray filled with seed compost (seed-starting mix), lightly press the seeds onto the surface and cover them with a thin layer of compost. To give them the warmth they need, place the pots on a heated propagator or heat mat, aiming for a constant 22–28°C (72–82°F) and use grow lights (plant light) to make up for short winter days, keeping the compost just damp, not wet. They need both light and heat to germinate. Clear lids or plastic covers help retain moisture until seedlings appear, after which keep young plants warm, well lit, and frost-free. One of the biggest problems with planting chillies in January is that the plants can become leggy, so it might be worth considering waiting until late Feb for this one.

    If you are looking for a video demonstrating some of the equipment mentioned in this post Jessie at Plot 37 has an excellent guide to her indoor set up. The set up starts around 14 mins into the vid. However, I have no doubt you will find some if not all the information in her vid useful My DIY Indoor Grow Setup for New Year Chilli Sowing!

    January Sowing Quick Reference Guide

    Chillies, Sweet Peppers & Aubergines
    • Where to sow: Indoors under cover
    • Containers: Modules or seed trays
    • Depth: ¼ inch (0.5 cm)
    • Germination time: 7–14 days
    • Heat needed: High 21–27°C (70–80°F)
    • Light: Very bright once sprouted (windowsill or grow lights (shop lights, daylight lamps)
    • Water: Light but consistent, never waterlogged
    • Soak seeds first: Optional, can speed germination
    • Plant outside: Late May–June, after last frost
    Onions
    • Where to sow: Indoors or frost-free greenhouse
    • Containers: Seed trays
    • Depth: ½ inch (1 cm)
    • Germination time: 10–14 days
    • Heat needed: Low 10–18°C (50–65°F)
    • Light: Bright but cool
    • Water: Even moisture
    • Soak seeds first: Not needed
    • Plant outside: March–April when soil is workable
    Leeks
    • Where to sow: Indoors or under cover
    • Containers: Seed trays
    • Depth: ½ inch (1 cm)
    • Germination time: 10–14 days
    • Heat needed: Low
    • Light: Bright, cool conditions
    • Water: Moderate
    • Soak seeds first: Not needed
    • Plant outside: April–May
    Winter Lettuce
    • Where to sow: Indoors, cold frame or cool greenhouse
    • Containers: Trays or shallow modules
    • Depth: Surface sow, barely covered
    • Germination time: 7–10 days
    • Heat needed: Cool conditions
    • Light: High (needs light to germinate)
    • Water: Light and regular
    • Soak seeds first: No
    • Plant outside: March onwards under protection
    Broad Beans
    • Where to sow: Direct outside or under cloche
    • Containers: Direct sow or deep pots
    • Depth: 2 inches (5 cm)
    • Spacing: 6 inches (15 cm)
    • Germination time: 14–21 days
    • Heat needed: None
    • Light: Natural daylight
    • Water: Minimal in winter
    • Soak seeds first: Yes – overnight recommended
    • Plant outside: Already in position
    Peas
    • Where to sow: Under cover or cold frame
    • Containers: Deep modules or pots
    • Depth: 1–1½ inches (3–4 cm)
    • Germination time: 10–14 days
    • Heat needed: Low
    • Light: Bright to prevent leggy growth
    • Water: Light, avoid soggy compost
    • Soak seeds first: Helpful but optional
    • Plant outside: March with protection
    Chilli
    • Where to sow: Indoors under cover (heated propagator or warm room)
    • Containers: Small pots, seed trays, or modules
    • Depth: Surface sow, lightly covered with compost (about ¼ inch / 0.5 cm)
    • Germination time: 7–21 days
    • Heat needed: High 22–28°C 72–82°F)
    • Light: Very bright; grow lights recommended to prevent leggy growth
    • Water: Light and regular; keep compost damp, not soggy
    • Soak seeds first: Optional, can potentially speed up germination
    • Plant outside: May – June after last frost, harden off first

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

  • Build Your Own Dead Hedge: A Beginners Guide

    Illustration of a dead hedge structure featuring wooden stakes and layered branches, showcasing a simple and natural garden design.

    A dead hedge is one of the simplest, yet most effective & environmentally friendly garden structures you can build. However, for some reason it remains surprisingly under-used in many gardens. This may be a lack of access to materials if you live in a city or very built up area or maybe just because it’s not the first thing people consider when planning a plot or garden.

    Traditionally seen in ancient woodland management, dead hedges are now enjoying something of a revival among gardeners. So if you are looking for a sustainable, low-impact boundary that supports wildlife and deals with your pruning waste, then this is the blog for you. Whether you have a large rural plot, an allotment, or a postage stamp garden, a dead hedge can be easily adapted to fit your space and needs.

    Below we will look at the benefits of a dead hedge and give a step by step guide for the construction of your gloriously natural hedge.

    What is a dead hedge?

    At its core, a dead hedge is a woven barrier made from cut branches, twigs, prunings and other woody waste material. Instead of burning or binning garden waste, you layer it between upright stakes. Hazel or chestnut are good for dead hedges but really any straightish, sturdy branches can be used as the frame for you dead hedge. The beauty is that almost anything woody can go into it: bramble stems, hedge trimmings, fallen branches, pruned fruit tree limbs and even woody perennial cuttings. Larger pieces form the base structure, while thinner twigs weave into the gaps to make it sturdier and more compact.

    Dead hedges are great for nature. They offer shelter and nesting sites for a wide range of wildlife. Robins, wrens, hedgehogs, beetles, frogs and solitary bees can all find sanctuary in a dead hedge. The hedge will provide protection from predators, safe overwintering spots and a steady food source as insects colonise the decaying wood. In areas where hedgehog populations are struggling, a dead hedge can become a vital refuge. Birds benefit from the insects that thrive within the hedge, while frogs enjoy the moist, protected microclimate that forms at the base.

    In larger spaces, you might create a long boundary hedge or use one to section off a composting or woodland area. In smaller gardens, even a short hedge – just a metre (3ft) or so, can offer valuable wildlife habitat. They also make excellent windbreaks, privacy screens and natural barriers to gently steer foot traffic without resorting to fencing. Because they are built from materials already on site, they blend into the landscape far more naturally than manufactured structures.

    Over time, a dead hedge will slowly break down as microbes, fungi and insects do their work. This decomposition is part of the design rather than a flaw. Depending on the materials used and the local climate, a dead hedge can last anywhere from 3 to 10 years. Hardwoods decay more slowly, while softwoods and thin twigs rot down faster. As the structure gradually settles, it enriches the soil beneath it with organic matter, improving soil health and supporting fungi and invertebrate life. In this way, your hedge becomes a living part of a natural nutrient cycle. Because it’s no a one and done, and is added to over time, you can continue to fill it as the original contents breakdown,

    Caring for a dead hedge is about a low-maintenance as it gets. Simply top it up with more prunings, autumn cuttings, winter windfall wood or general garden clippings. This keeps the structure sturdy while giving you a convenient place to recycle garden waste year-round. There’s no need for tools beyond basic loppers and secateurs (pruners). Adding new material every few months creates a layered effect, helping the hedge stay compact and effective as a barrier. It also ensures a constant supply of fresh habitat for insects and small animals.

    Just to give an idea of how a simple dead hedge can be, this is small one I created last season to hold some of my butternut squash plants. Granted it’s not the prettiest you’ll ever see, but hopefully it will give you an idea of it’s simplicity and versatility.

    A small dead hedge structure filled with soil and topped with fallen leaves and twigs, surrounded by green foliage.

    Step-by-step build

    Step 1 – Mark out the line

    Decide on the length or shape of your new dead hedge and mark out your shape with string, or whatever you have to hand. This is just a marker so the stakes go in the correct desired place.

    Step 2 – Set the upright stakes

    Place two rows of stout stakes at roughly 60 –100 cm (2–3 ft) intervals along the line. For small hedges you can go 80 cm or less apart; for very robust hedges reduce spacing. Drive stakes about 30 – 40 cm (12–16 in) into the ground so they’re firm (leaving 1–1.2 m (3 – 4 ft) above ground). These measurements are only a guide, it will very much depend on what you have available. The spacing in the picture above is really quite random as I needed a new growing bed quite quickly and threw it together in a couple of hours one afternoon.

    Step 3 – Make the base

    Lay larger, thicker pieces of wood lengthways between stakes at the base. These form the backbone and help the hedge settle on the ground evenly. They also help to make the structure more sturdy. If you’re creating a longer, taller hedge then I wouldn’t skip this step. However, if the structure is smaller then it’s desirable but not essential to have a base layer of thicker wood go in first.

    Step 4 – Layer and pack

    Begin adding branches and prunings between the stakes, laying them lengthwise along the hedge. Use thicker pieces toward the centre and base; use thinner twigs to fill gaps and add compactness. Pack material tightly so it won’t slump – aim for a dense structure.

    Step 5 – Weave or tie (optional)

    If you want more stability, weave thinner flexible rods (hazel works well, but anything a bit bendy will suffice) horizontally through the stakes (like wattle) or tie bundles with twine to hold them in place. This is more work but makes a neater, longer-lasting barrier.

    Step 6 – Build in layers & habitat

    Continue building in layers until the hedge reaches the desired height. commonly 0.6 –1.5 m (2–5 ft) for garden use, or taller if used as a boundary. Compact each layer as you go. Again these measurements are only a guide. This is all your own creation so what feels right for your design and the space available.

    Step 8 – Cap it off

    Finish with a top layer of smaller twigs and brash to shed rain and give a tidy appearance. If you like, add a “cap” of larger branches laid across to slow decomposition of the top layer and for ascetic affect then feel free – you do you!

    Things you can put in a dead hedge

    • Hedge clippings
    • Prunings from fruit trees and shrubs
    • Brash, bramble (useful for structure)
    • Fallen branches and coppice material
    • Woody perennial cuttings (not diseased)
    • Avoid large quantities of sap-rich green cuttings (they rot anaerobically) and avoid diseased wood
    • Avoid large quantities of weeds – they will tend to spread and can create weeding issues down the line. You don’t need to be too picky if there are a few weeds in a pile of brush. However, I’d save the majority of weeds for the compost bin.

    Care, maintenance & longevity

    • Top up regularly: add fresh prunings every few months or annually to maintain bulk and renew habitat.
    • Longevity: depending on materials and weather, a dead hedge typically lasts 3 –10 years. Hardwoods last longer, softwoods break down quicker.
    • Monitoring: every year check stakes for rot; replace any that become loose. Tidy if necessary, but don’t over-neaten, wildlife prefers a bit of mess.
    • When it collapses: as it decomposes you can either let it integrate into the ground as a wildlife log/compost strip, or dismantle and reuse large pieces in new hedges.

    Safety & best practice

    • Don’t include treated wood, paint-coated timber or invasive roots.
    • Be careful with thorny material – use gloves and eye protection.
    • If the hedge sits on a boundary, check with neighbours and local bylaws if needed (usually fine in private gardens, but be polite).
    • Avoid building in areas that block water flow or contravene conservation rules (if you’re in a protected site, check with your local council or wildlife trust).

    In an age when many gardeners are trying to reduce waste, support biodiversity and work more closely with nature, a dead hedge is a simple but powerful solution. It turns what would have been green waste into a living, breathing structure that benefits wildlife, improves soil health and offers a cheap easy solution when pennies are tight. Whether tall or low, long or short, rustic or neatly woven, a dead hedge is an easy, ecological and rewarding feature you can build at any time of year.

    If you want straightforward visual information about creating a dead hedge then you might find this video by ‘Lovely Greens’ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2A9k2kk_hs

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

    Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation

    The post emphasizes the importance of observation in gardening, encouraging gardeners to slow down and learn from their plants. By recognising growth patterns and changes, they can address issues effectively and enhance their confidence as gardeners.

    solitairegardener's avatar by solitairegardener

    Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips

    If you’ve ever gone out to admire your courgette/zucchini plants, spotted a perfectly sized fruit, and thought, ‘I’ll pick that tomorrow’. You excitedly wander into the garden the next day, only to discover what appears to be a small submarine lurking under the leaves. You’re not alone. Trust me, I’ve been growing Courgettes/Zucchini for years,…

    solitairegardener's avatar by solitairegardener

    Top Vegetables to Sow in June for a Bountiful Harvest

    June is an excellent month for sowing various heat-loving vegetables, with rapid germination and growth. Ideal conditions for crops like pumpkins, turnips, and spring onions encourage healthy yields. Newer gardeners can still enjoy successful harvests, even if the growing season began slowly.

    solitairegardener's avatar by solitairegardener

    Unlock Healthy Growth with Deep Watering Techniques

    Effective watering fosters strong root systems in plants. Deep watering enhances drought resilience and reduces evaporation, essential for healthy growth. Observational skills help gardeners adjust their watering techniques for optimal results.

    solitairegardener's avatar by solitairegardener

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  • Vegetable Garden Planning for the Coming Year

    Vegetable Garden Planning for the Coming Year

    A cozy indoor scene featuring a wooden table covered with various vegetable seed packets, a notebook, and a pencil. A warm fire burns in a stove nearby, and a Christmas tree is visible in the background.

    Making the Most of the Quiet Season

    I feel like I say this with almost every blog I write, but this really is one of my favourite times of the gardening year. True, nothing much is happening in the garden, but December for me is filled with expectation and the unshakable belief that next year the vegetables I plant will produce the best harvest yet.

    It’s with this excitement that I carve out time over the festive season to do some serious garden planning. Time spent with a cuppa by the fire and a copy of Charles Dowding’s (Not sponsored/affiliated but they do make lovely Xmas presents Calendar, Wallchart & Diary – Charles Dowding) planting calendar can save a whole host of haphazard early spring chaos.

    Those around the world who don’t celebrate the xmas season or for whom it is summer please do map this post onto the time of year that you have a moment to breath and dream of the luscious, abundant harvests to come.

    Whether you’ve a balcony, a postaged stamp sized garden, an allotment or a vast acreage, planning for the coming seasons is a task that will help to ensure a successful growing year.

    So many seeds – so little time 😊

    Choosing the right vegetable seeds for our increasingly unpredictable UK climate is the first step to a productive season. Hardy crops such as beetroot, chard, kale, broad beans, brassicas, leeks and onions tolerate our cooler weather very well, while heat-lovers like peppers (bell peppers) and tomatoes benefit from an early indoor start, where temperatures can be better regulated. The winter break is an ideal time to think about which crops your family truly eats. Will you fill your growing space with reliable staples that store or preserve well such as carrots, potatoes, pumpkins, onions and beets. Or will you save a little room to try something new even if it’s a gamble for storage or taste? You might also consider growing pricier crops that are expensive in the uk to buy such as asparagus or ginger both of which can be frozen for longer storage. Having said that, asparagus in my opinion is never as nice once frozen, but still useful for bakes and quiches. For storage-heavy crops like onions, garlic and winter squash, choose varieties bred for long keeping, as they can dramatically extend your self-sufficiency into the colder months.

    Deciding what to focus on will help you plan out your year more effectively.

    Out with the old

    This quiet period is also perfect for sorting and organising your seed collection. Seed viability differs widely: parsnip seeds rarely last beyond a year or two year, while tomatoes, brassicas, lettuce and many herbs can remain viable for three to five years when stored properly. Older seeds can still germinate and may well surprise you, but germination rates naturally decline with age. When using older packets, sow a little more heavily to increase your chances of getting enough strong seedlings. The key to preserving viability is understanding the three main threats: humidity, heat and repeated freezing. Seeds stored in a warm, centrally heated room may lose viability more quickly, while a damp shed or garage can trigger mould or early sprouting. On the other hand, a freezing, uninsulated garage can damage seeds if temperatures fluctuate dramatically. Aim for cool, stable, dry conditions, an airtight tin, jar or sealed box stored in a cupboard is ideal.

    Seed sorting & storing

    When it comes to storing and categorising seeds, simple systems are often the most effective. Many UK growers use photo storage boxes, recipe-card boxes, tins, or small drawers to organise their packets. You might store them chronologically by sowing month, making it easy to pull out what’s needed each month. Alternatively you might decide to group similar varieties together, such as brassicas, roots, salads and herbs. Whatever system you choose, keep seeds in their original packets inside a sealed container with silica gel or rice to absorb moisture, store them away from radiators and heating vents, and avoid locations with fluctuating temperatures. Properly stored seeds stay viable far longer and save money year after year.

    My seed sorting strategy is always to take one of the days between xmas and the new year (if new year is in January for you) get all my seeds out, make a big mess, ditch any that are five years old, then sort them by planting month. I can then fill in the gaps with new seeds if I need them. I say if I need them, knowing full well I will be lured into purchasing twice as many throughout the year than I started with! who can resist a seed sale 😊 By mid Autumn my seed trunk (and it is a trunk, not a wee box) looks like a bomb has hit it – and so the process of promising to be tidier next year beings again.

    Winter vegetable garden planning isn’t about doing, it’s about imagining. The garden may be quiet, but this stillness invites creativity and clarity. Spread your seed packets out on the table, build your plan around the food you genuinely enjoy, review any notes you made last year and enjoy this gentle pause before the rush of spring. By taking this reflective approach now, you step into the next growing season with confidence, organisation and a renewed connection to the simple joy of growing your own food. Patience over the next couple couple of months is the key – the opportunity to get those seeds in their little module trays is coming, but for now, organising and planning will put you in a stronger position to hit the ground running come early spring.

    Consider your growing space

    Adequate crop spacing is one of the most important and yet often most overlooked elements of successful vegetable garden planning. Each crop has its own requirements, and planning this during winter prevents overcrowding, poor airflow, and reduced yields later on. Large brassicas such as cabbage, cauliflower and sprouts need generous room to expand, often 40–60cm between plants, i have been growing brassicas for many years and am still always surprised at the space they take up in my beds. Fast-growing crops like lettuce or spinach can be sown more densely or succession-planted for a steady supply. Root crops such as carrots and beetroot rely on looser soil and fairly even spacing to grow straight and strong. Climbing crops like runner beans, French beans and peas require vertical support and enough horizontal space to allow air movement around the stems, helping prevent mildew. Sprawling plants such as courgettes, pumpkins and winter squash need far more space than many expect often taking a full square metre or more. When planning your layout, also consider sunlight, crop rotation (if you rotate – some growers, myself included don’t rotate regularly) the mature size of each plant, and whether you want to interplant quick growers like radishes between slower crops. Thinking about spacing now ensures healthier plants, easier maintenance and a garden layout that feels intentional rather than overcrowded and chaotic. When you are planning for next season, read over your seed packets as most will give the planting distances, the keep that in mind when deciding where you you will plant.

    When the waiting becomes too much

    If the itch to sow becomes irresistible, you’ll be pleased to know that several seeds can be started as early as January or February in the UK. Chillies (hot peppers), aubergines (eggplants), onions from seed, early tomatoes, hardy broad beans and possibly celeriac, are all good early candidates. These crops benefit from long growing seasons and thrive when started indoors on a windowsill or under grow lights. All these long growing season crops will have a certain temperature range at which they are most likely to germinate, this should be stated on the seed packet. If not just look up the exact variety online. The germination temperature is important as is the need to mitigate for temperature fluctuation.

    Final Thoughts

    Planning your veg patch is about about imagining, dreaming & organising. Winter in the garden tends to be slower and this stillness invites some creativity and clarity. Spread your seed packets out on the table, build your plan around the food you love to eat, review your favourite monthly planning guidance, and enjoy this gentle pause before spring returns in earnest. By taking this reflective approach now, you will move into the next growing season with confidence, organisation and a renewed connection to the joy of growing your own healthy organic food.

    If you want a bit more on planting strategies & growing space Huw Richards has some good, & relatively affordable courses on the ‘Abundance Academy’ which are worth checking out. They are about £30 a pop & with lifetime access https://abundanceacademy.online/ (I’m not affiliated in any way – but purchased one a few years ago and found it helpful).

    Again I’m not affiliate in any way but Charles Dowding also has some really good courses on his website https://shop.charlesdowding.co.uk/collections/online-courses.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

    I also have a free 10 page guide to Organic DIY pest control. Subscribe for your free copy.

  • A Beginners Guide to Leaf Mould

    An illustration of a tree with colorful autumn leaves shedding onto a pile of fallen leaves, with a light background.

    Black Gold

    Leaf mould isn’t called ‘black gold’ or ‘gardeners gold’ for nothing – it’s a truly magical garden ingredient and it’s beauty is in the simplicity – just leaves!

    Unlike more traditional composts which are rich in nutrients formed by bacteria decomposition like the materials in your compost bin. Leaf mould is created almost entirely by the action of fungi which is a much slower process.

    The results of fully decomposed leaf mould is a dark, crumbly, sweet-smelling material that looks a bit like the rich soil you get under tress in dense woodland. Leaf mould is not technically a fertiliser, as it doesn’t contain some of the things most plants need to grow like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. So why make it I hear you say? Well it’s main benefits are its innate ability to improve soil structure. Leaf mould enhances aeration, improves drainage in clay soils and boosts moisture retention in sandy soils. It encourages the growth of mycorrhizal fungi, which forms a mutually beneficial relationship with plant roots and helps them absorbed water and soil nutrients. All this from a pile of decomposed leaves makes leaf mould a must for the garden.

    Below we will look at how leaf mould is made, best and worst types of leaves to use (and why) where to source your leaves, how to store them and how long the whole processes takes.

    How Leaf Mould Is Made

    Making leaf mould couldn’t be easier – it’s about patience rather than effort. Ideally collect fallen leaves in autumn when they’re dry and crisp. Pile them into a corner of the garden, a wire mesh bin, or large heavy-duty plastic sacks with holes poked in for air circulation. Add a little moisture if they’re too dry, then leave nature to do the rest. Over the next 12–24 months, fungi and microscopic organisms will slowly digest the tough leaf tissue, transforming it into that soft, dark, earthy material. The cooler temperatures of the UK (and similar climates) mean this process takes time, but it’s entirely self-sustaining, so no turning, no feeding. You just pile up your leaves and wait. I store my leaf mould in the large 1200 ltr. bags in which we get our mushroom compost delivered. My top tip is to make sure whatever you use to store your leaf mould has plenty of airflow, without getting it too wet.

    The Breakdown Process – and How Long It Takes

    Because leaf mould doesn’t create as much heat as regular compost and the cooler decomposition process is slower, you will need some patience to create good ‘gardeners gold’. The fungi in the leaf mould feeds on the carbon rich cell walls of the leaves, gradually converting them into humus (the soft, spongy organic matter that gives soil it’s structure). In the UK’s mildish, damp winters this process can take anything from 18 months to 2 years.

    You can speed this process up somewhat if you shred the leaves before storing them. This can cut as much as a year from the decomposition process. My tip here is to lay your leaves on the ground and run the lawn mower over them. That should break them down enough to speed up the process. You will know your leaf mould is ready when it’s dark brown, crumbly, and smells like a woodland floor. If it still looks a bit ‘leafy’ then leave it a few more months.

    If you really can’t wait the length of time it takes for the leaves to proper decompose, you can still use your leaves for a general mulch. The coarser texture will help with weed control and also help to moderate the soil temperature below.

    The Best Leaves to Use – and Why

    Some leaves break down more easily and produce better-quality leaf mould than others. The best choices are oak, beech, hornbeam, birch, hazel, and alder – these are thin, rich in lignin (Lignin is a complex organic polymer that provides rigidity, strength, and support to the cell walls of plants). Maple, ash, and fruit tree leaves also work beautifully, producing a fine, crumbly texture. Sycamore and plane tree (Platanus) leaves are slower to rot, but still usable if shredded first. For the best results, use a mix of leaves – this mimics the natural diversity of a forest floor and encourages a broader range of beneficial fungi.

    Leaves to Avoid – and Why

    Not all leaves are suitable for leaf mould. Avoid evergreen leaves like holly, laurel, conifer, and Leylandii, they have a waxy coating and resins that resist decomposition and can even inhibit fungal growth. Laurel and in particular Cherry Laurel are problematic as they contain cyanogenic glycosides, which when cut or damaged can release hydrocyanic acid (that’s cyanide to you and me.). If you are going to use laurel leaves it’s probably best to use them sparingly in your general compost with other ingredients to allow any toxins to dissipate over time in an outdoor environment. Alternatively make a separate pile and leave it to decompose for around 3 + years or use them around the base of trees as a mulch. We have quite a bit of Laurel on our property which needs regular cutting back. So I have a pile of laurel leaves which I store in one spot, then after a good few years I will those at the very base of my raised beds and around other trees. Using them in the bottom of the bed works well as it means they are mixed with other material and safer to use.

    Black walnut and eucalyptus leaves are also best left out – they contain natural chemicals (juglone and cineole) that can suppress plant growth and harm soil microbes. Tough leaves such as sycamore, horse chestnut, and magnolia can be used in moderation, but shred or mow them first to speed up breakdown. Keeping the right balance ensures your leaf mould matures evenly and safely.

    One final point on what types of leaves to use: Pine leaves (needles) are also slow to breakdown and tend to create a more acid environment. So use these around acid loving plants such as blueberries, or azaleas.

    Storing and Managing Leaf Mould as It Breaks Down

    If you have space, a simple chicken wire cage or wooden frame about 1 metre square is perfect. Line the sides with hessian or cardboard to hold in moisture, and position it in a shaded, sheltered corner where wind won’t dry out your leaf mould pile. Alternatively, use sturdy bin liners or compost sacks with a few holes for ventilation. Check the pile occasionally – if the leaves feel dry, sprinkle with water; if they’re soggy, loosen the pile for airflow. The key is maintaining steady moisture, like a wrung-out sponge. Label the bags with the year, so you can tell which batch is ready first, and remember patience is the key to excellent leaf mould.

    How to Use Leaf Mould in the Garden

    Mature leaf mould is incredibly versatile. Use it as a soil improver by spreading a few centimetres over beds in autumn or spring – it lightens heavy clay, improves drainage, and helps sandy soils hold water. It can also be mixed 50:50 with compost to create a gentle, organic seed-sowing mix, perfect for seedlings that prefer lower nutrient levels. As a mulch, it protects soil from erosion and feeds beneficial fungi that form symbiotic relationships with plant roots. Over time, it helps build rich, living soil that supports stronger, healthier, and more resilient plants. Gardeners who use leaf mould year after year find their beds become easier to work and their crops more productive – it’s the quiet miracle of decomposition at work.

    Where to Collect Leaves If You Don’t Have Trees

    If your garden or allotment doesn’t have trees, don’t worry – there are plenty of ways to gather leaves responsibly. Local parks, public paths, and wooded verges often have piles of fallen leaves that councils are happy for residents to collect, especially if it helps keep paths clear (always check local rules first, or talk to your local council). Ask neighbours with large gardens if you can take a few bags off their hands. Many municipal recycling centres or allotment associations also have leaf drop-off piles you can dip into. Bring a few reusable bags and a rake, and you’ll have enough to fill a compost cage in no time. Just make sure to avoid leaves from busy roadsides, as they may contain pollutants or salt residues.

    Final Thoughts

    Leaf mould is one of gardening’s simplest pleasures – a gift from the trees that costs nothing but patience. By gathering, storing, and reusing fallen leaves, you’re not just tidying up the garden; you’re closing the nutrient loop, enriching your soil naturally, and supporting the hidden life beneath your feet. Once you’ve used homemade leaf mould, you’ll never want to throw another leaf away.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts and exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky.

    I also have a free 10 page guide to Organic DIY pest control. Subscribe for your free copy.

    Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation
    Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips
    Top Vegetables to Sow in June for a Bountiful Harvest
    Simple Ways to Preserve Everyday Herbs (Without Fancy Equipment)
    Find Peace: Calm the Chaos and Remember, It’s Not Too Late
    Unlock Healthy Growth with Deep Watering Techniques

  • 10 Winter Garden Tasks for a Thriving Spring

    A colorful illustration of a farm scene featuring a wooden bridge, a storage shed, and bags labeled 'MULCH' and 'SOIL'. The sun is shining in the background, adding to the vibrant atmosphere.

    The day by day advance of winter is a magical time of year, with the sun low in the sky chilly mornings, and longer evenings it can feel like gardening season is coming to an end. But the growing season never truly sleeps – it simply slows down.

    When UK temperatures begin to drop, the soil rests, and nature exhales, your garden ‘to do’ list can sometimes go the way of all those new years resolutions. Yet even on cold, short days, a few easy maintenance jobs now can make all the difference come spring. These small winter tasks don’t take much effort, but you will reap the rewards later with healthier soil, fewer pests, and a smoother start to the next growing season. So wrap up warm, grab a mug of tea, and tick off a few of these satisfying, low-energy garden wins.

    1. Give Your Compost Bin Some Love

    Compost heaps slow down in winter, but they never stop working decomposing all that beautiful organic matter. If you’ve not done this already then it’s time to turn your compost or at least give a good poke around with an aerator tool. Turning your compost will allow more oxygen into the mix, which, in turn will help the aerobic bacteria work more efficiently. It will also help your compost from getting smelly and compacted. Covering your compost with a piece of ply wood, hessian sacks or a tarp will help retain warmth and moisture and protect it form getting too wet when it rains
    Healthy compost means free, organic soil conditioner for next season – and every handful means money you save on buying compost next year.

    2. Check and Clean Your Tools

    Blunt, dirty tools spread disease and make garden jobs harder. Take a quiet afternoon to wash, sharpen, and oil your secateurs, spades, and hoes. Use a dab of organic linseed oil on wooden handles to stop cracking, and a touch of vinegar or bicarbonate of soda or WD40 to remove rust. It’s a good idea to first brush tools with a small stiff brush to ensure the dirt and debris is removed. Even this small task can help the moving parts move function more freely.
    Clean tools last longer, work better, and prevent plant infections. So while this might seem like an insignificant task it will increase the lifespan of your tools and save you money in the long run.

    3. Clean Out Greenhouses and Cold Frames

    Before storing some of your over wintering plants in your greenhouse, polytunnel or cold frames it’s always a good idea to give them a pre-winter clean. I do my major clean in late February early March before the bulk of my new seasons seed are planted. But I do like to give the greenhouse a bit of pre winter clean. I choose a mild, dry day to wash greenhouse glass, lids, and shelving with a warm, eco-friendly soap (Dr. Bronners is my favourite). Remove moss, algae, and old plant debris, as these harbour pests and block precious winter light.
    A clean greenhouse warms faster, lets in more sunlight, and reduces the disease risk for seedlings or overwintering plants. It’s one of the simplest ways to make your space feel fresh and ready for the new season.

    4. Check Your Shed, Water Butts, and Paths

    Inspect your shed for damp, leaks, or pests. Rats and mice love dark sheds and signs of the little blighters are easily spotted. You will see corners and edges nibbled and will often see their droppings.

    Its a good idea to tighten shed hinges, sweep the floor, and organse tools or pots while things are relatively quiet in the garden. Clean out water butts to prevent algae build-up, and check any associated guttering for blockages so you can collect clean rainwater over the winter months.
    Tidy up slippery paths by sweeping with a broom and some sand, or lay woodchip where mud gathers. Keep some salt to hand in case you need it for icy paths. . All these jobs take some effort – emptying a full water butt for cleaning isn’t a five minute job but these little bits of maintenance keep your garden safer and more efficient.

    5. Look After the Wildlife

    A thriving garden depends on its wildlife. Clean bird feeders with warm water and refill regularly; scatter seed and fat balls during cold spells. Leave a few piles of leaves or logs undisturbed for hedgehogs and insects or get the children/grandchildren involved in building a bug house.
    Encouraging birds and beneficial creatures helps with future pest problems – they’re nature’s own gardeners, and they’ll repay your kindness in spring by keeping aphids and slugs in check.

    6. Feed the Soil, Not Just the Plants

    Add a layer of well-rotted compost, leaf mould, or seaweed to your beds now, even if nothing’s growing. This feeds the soil ecosystem that underpins every healthy plant.
    Winter moisture helps nutrients filter down gently, ensuring your spring seedlings have a rich, fertile base. Investing time in soil health now educes the need for digging or feeding during the busy planting months. It’s always a good idea once you’ve fed your soil to pop on a good layer of mulch – leaves, compost, woodchips etc. will all keep your soil comfy and cosy for the winter.

    7. Harvest the Last of the Greens

    Pick over any hardy winter crops like leeks, kale, chard, or spinach, and remove yellowing leaves to prevent rot. Don’t forget evergreen herbs such as thyme, rosemary, and parsley, which can still be harvested sparingly.
    Clearing damaged leaves reduces overwintering pests and diseases, while feeding or mulching around surviving crops helps them produce fresh growth in early spring. A little attention now means stronger plants and better yields later.

    8. Organise and Clean Your Pots and Seed Trays

    Winter is the ideal time to sort through that stack of pots and seed trays hiding in both in the shed and around the garden. Wash and give them a bit of a scrub with warm, soapy water to remove algae, pests, and old soil. Stack them neatly by size and recycle any cracked plastics.
    Cleaning containers reduces the risk of fungal diseases like damping-off, and having everything organised now means you’ll save time when sowing time.

    9. Refresh Your No-Dig Beds

    If you follow the no-dig method, winter is your secret weapon. Instead of turning the soil, simply add a generous 5 – 10 cm (2 – 4 inch) layer of compost or well-rotted organic matter right on top. The worms and microbes will do the digging for you, pulling nutrients down as they feed.
    This approach preserves soil structure, protects fungal networks, and reduces weed germination, while locking in carbon and moisture. It’s the ultimate low-effort, high-reward winter job that builds long-term fertility without lifting a spade.

    10. Dream, Read, and Learn

    Finally, give yourself permission to slow down. Curl up with a good gardening book, browse seed catalogues, or make a list of new crops you’d like to try. Winter is the gardener’s pause – a time to reflect, plan, and gather inspiration. Read through your gardening notes, assess what worked and what you might do differently next season.
    A good plan now will result in saved money and time come planting season. Plus, dreaming about tomatoes and courgettes is a lovely way to banish those winter blues.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts and exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button.

    I also have a free 10 page guide to Organic DIY pest control. Subscribe for your free copy.

  • Essential Gardening Tools for No-Dig Organic Gardening

    An assortment of gardening tools including a hand trowel, seed tray, secateurs, small handle fork, small hoe, garden knife, watering can, shovel, and long handle fork on a light green background.

    I garden in a no-dig organic way mostly in raised beds so soil health is everything. Instead of turning over soil, I layer compost and organic matter and let the worms and microbes do all the hard work. That means I need fewer heavy tools for growing vegetables.

    But as a new gardener before rushing out to buy shiny fancy new rakes and dibbers, remember: you can start small and simple. Many great gardeners began with little more than a trowel, a bucket, and a truck load of creativity. You really don’t need to go overboard when you’re starting out, but there are some basics that will make your fledgling garden easier.

    Below we will go over some basic tools, their uses, some alternatives, and toward the end I’ll talk about where to look for pre-loved tools. But keep in mind, while all of the tools mentioned below are useful, people have been growing food thousands of years with whatever they have available.

    Let’s begin with the most important issue, and that’s maintenance. Whatever tools you have they will not perform well unless there’re maintained properly. Kept them clean, sharpened and oiled if needed.

    🔧 Tool Care and Maintenance

    Good tools, whether makeshift, new, or second-hand deserve care. The more you take the time to look after them, the better they will perform.

    Routine care:

    • Wipe off soil and dry after use.
    • Apply a touch of linseed oil to metal and wooden parts.
    • Sharpen blades regularly with a sharpening block or stick
    • Hang or store upright in a dry environment

    DIY maintenance tools:

    • Bucket of oily sand – stab metal tools in after use to clean and protect. Just be careful with really sharp tools as sometimes they can blunt in the sand. Trowels and hand tools should be fine.
    • Old toothbrushes – for scrubbing the soil from tools
    • Rags dipped in natural oils – for wiping down handles.
    • Vinegar scrub – for removing rust in the absence of some WD40.

    🪴 Seed Trays and Pots

    Starting seeds doesn’t require professional trays, just a bit of imagination. Reusing and repurposing household items reduces plastic waste and cost.

    Uses:

    • To sow seeds for germination
    • Seed trays are portable so allow you to control the germination climate
    • Easier protection from pests
    • Allow you to choose the strongest seedling to plant on

    Makeshift alternatives:

    • Ice cube trays, egg boxes/cartons, small containers (the ones that mushrooms come in), take away containers for seed starting. Make sure you put a few drainage holes in the bottom.
    • Yoghurt pots, or any pot roughly the shape as a plant pot for when your seeds need potting on
    • Cardboard tubes (like toilet rolls) for root crops such as beans or leeks – they can be planted directly into the soil tube and all as that will break down as the plant grows
    • Shallow cardboard boxes lined with compostable paper – easy to move and recycle
    • Newspaper pots – you can make your own pots from folded newspaper. There are lot’s of examples on YouTube – Lovely greens has a simple to follow example here Two ways to make Newspaper Plant Pots (the simple way + the origami method)

    Later, you might invest in sturdy, reusable seed trays made from recycled plastic or biodegradable fibre pots. I get my seed trays form Charles Dowding https://containerwise.co.uk/product-category/charles-dowding/ (not affiliated). They are a little more expensive, but they are amazing and will last for many years.

    ✂️ Hand Pruners (Secateurs)

    A reliable pair of secateurs (garden clippers or pruning shears) is one of the most versatile small tools in your kit. In an organic, no-dig garden, where you aim to manage growth naturally rather than by force, pruners are invaluable for keeping everything healthy, accessible, and productive. Secateurs are honestly the tool I use most in my garden.

    Uses:

    • Cutting back overgrown foliage
    • Trimming spent stems
    • Removing dead or damaged leaves
    • Deadheading flowering plants
    • Snipping small branches or woody stems
    • Shaping plants and training growth
    • Harvesting cleanly
    • Light pruning in tight spaces

    Makeshift alternatives:

    • Sharp kitchen or craft scissors
    • Utility or Stanley knife (box cutter)

    Tip: If you are going to purchase a secateurs, my advice would be to by the best you can afford. Apparently (according to an internet search) Monty Don uses Felcon No.2 secateurs which come in at about £50 (about $80 in the US according to Felcon’s website). However, that’s quite the investment for a new gardener, or an experienced one come to that. I would go for something from about £20 to £30 if your finances allow. Mine were a xmas pressie & are from Kent and Stowe at £34.99 (https://kentandstowe.com/products/kent-stowe-eversharp-bypass-secateurs I’m not affiliated). They are excellent, and I keep them well sharpened weekly.

    🥄 Trowel

    A hand trowel is a good tool to have around. Trowels have many uses but essentially they are scoops to move soil.

    Uses:

    • Digging small holes in compost for seedlings or transplants
    • Mixing organic fertilisers or adding compost around a plant
    • Lifting small weeds or dividing herb
    • Prying weeds from the soil
    • Creating little drills or furrows in the soil for planting

    Homemade or makeshift alternatives:

    • Large serving spoon or dessert spoon – perfect for container gardening or smaller veg patches.
    • Repurposed paint scraper or a small plastering trowel.
    • An old mug or cup: For scooping potting soil or compost, a hard plastic or metal cup with a handle is an easy substitute
    • 2 ltr repurposed plastic milk bottle: there are plenty of youtube vids on how to make a scoop from a plastic bottle

    Pretty much anything that can easily shovel small amounts of soil will suffice

    Perfect for planting when larger holes are needed for transplants.
    If you decide to purchase a trowel choose with a sturdy handle and rust-rust resistant.

    💧 Watering Can

    Gentle watering is key in no-dig and organic systems – keep the soil moist, not soggy. Remember we are growing plants not ducks 🦆

    Uses:

    • Watering seedlings and raised beds
    • Adding liquid feeds like comfrey or nettle tea
    • Moistening compost heaps

    Homemade or makeshift alternatives:

    • Plastic milk bottle with holes poked in the lid
    • Water jug
    • Old teapot
    • Colander or sieve – for sprinkling water over seed trays.
    • Bucket – be with a bucket around seedlings

    If you don’t have fancy hoses or cans a simple bucket or washing up bowl will suffice for small scale gardening. If you have a larger plot then a decent watering hose may be the order of the day. But for smaller plots a simple bucket, 5 litre water bottle or will do just fine.

    A quick word about water butts – if you are lugging water it can be a pain but decent water butts can be expensive. So capture rainwater in whatever you have. An old bin, some buckets anything you can leave near your plot so you make watering a but easier.

    Tip: I use a small child’s watering can to water my seedlings especially ones in the greenhouse or small carrot seeds planted direct in my raised beds. These little kiddies cans are cheap and the flow of water from the rose spout is gentle enough not to disturb newly planted seeds.

    As seedlings become young plants, you’ll need simple tools to help maintain healthy, living soil. The no-dig approach means fewer tools, less disturbance, and more natural resilience.

    🌾 Garden Fork (long and small handle)

    A fork is useful, but in no-dig gardening, it’s used sparingly to aerate compacted areas or lift crops, not to turn the soil. In my experience the best use of a long handled garden fork is to turn the compost bin 😂

    Uses:

    • Gently lifting root crops – both long and small handled forks
    • Turning compost heaps – long handled fork
    • Loosening compacted ground before top-dressing with compost – long handles

    Makeshift alternatives: for small handle forks

    • Sturdy barbecue fork
    • Old cutlery fork
    • Broken table fork or serving fork
    • Repurposed metal kebab skewers

    Makeshift alternatives: for long handle fork

    It’s difficult to find an alternative for a long handled fork. There are ideas online to construct wooden alternatives, but you would need to ensure it was reinforced particularly if your soil is heavy. A pitchfork or spade will also substitute if you already have one or know of somewhere you can borrow one.

    Tip: For small beds or raised beds, a hand fork gives great control without disturbing soil layers.

    🥕 Spade (Shovel)

    As a no dig raised bed gardener I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of times in a year I use a spade. Generally the only time i use one is to fill a new raised bed or shovel compost. However, it is a very useful tool to have around.
    Uses:

    • Moving compost or mulch onto beds
    • Shaping edges of paths or borders
    • Transplanting shrubs or fruit bushes and trees

    Makeshift alternatives:

    • Old coal shovel or fireplace shovel – great for smaller jobs
    • Dustpan – for smaller transfers, if you have a metal one that’s even better as it will be more sturdy than a plastic one.

    I would say there is probably no decent substitute for a shovel if you need to move significant amounts of soil or dig a hole.

    🌾 Hoe

    A hoe is a brilliant tool for weed management – helpful in organic systems where chemicals are avoided. These can be long handled if you are planting direct in the soil or lower raised beds and short handle ones if you have waist high raised beds. The idea is the hoe removes the tops of the weeds which can then decompose on the soil surface or be put on the compost bin.

    Uses:

    • Skimming weeds off just below the surface (leave them to compost in place or put them on the compost heap)
    • Creating shallow trenches for seeds
    • Loosening compacted top layers without digging deeply

    Makeshift alternatives:

    • Old kitchen spatula or knife
    • Car windscreen scraper
    • Old butter knife or cake server

    Tip: If you know you have to contend with a variety of weeds particularly over the summer. Make sure you sow your seeds at least the width of you hoe so you can easily get in-between your planting rows. There are many types of Hoe ‘Dutch Hoes’ ‘Oscillating hoe’ ‘draw hoe’ so if you are thinking about buying one consider the type of hoe that’s right for you.

    🔪 Garden Knife

    A garden knife (gardening utility knife) is one of those underrated tools that quickly becomes indispensable. It’s my second most used tool in my garden. In a no-dig garden, where soil is left undisturbed and planting is done by hand, a sturdy knife helps with precision work – from lifting seedlings to slicing compost bags.

    Uses:

    • Cutting through roots and stems cleanly
    • Easing seedlings or transplants out of pots
    • Harvesting crops
    • Trimming roots, stalks, or foliage
    • Cutting garden twine, jute, or netting
    • Opening compost, mulch, or soil bag
    • Scraping off stubborn soil
    • Whittling plant labels or stakes
    • Cutting through light cardboard or weed membrane

    Makeshift alternatives:

    • Old kitchen knife
    • Craft knife or Stanley knife (box cutter)
    • Multi-tool or penknife

    Tip: Obviously when using sharp knives make sure you keep it safe and out of reach of children. Also think about how you carry your knife so when you bend you don’t stab yourself. I know this sounds so basic, but having stabbed myself on numerous occasions I now always wrap my knife in a cloth

    ♻️ Budget-Friendly & Sustainable Sources

    Sustainable gardening doesn’t require a fortune – just resourcefulness and keeping your eyes open for bargains. Older tools are often superior – forged steel and ash handles can outlast more modern materials.

    Where to find tools:

    • Car boot sales (flea markets).
    • Charity shops, jumble sales, and thrift stores.
    • Salvage yards or community recycling centres.
    • Tool libraries or local community gardens – for borrowing.
    • Online marketplaces – Freecycle, Gumtree, or Facebook.
    • Local tip or dump – many tips in the U.K. have a facility whereby you can purchase old tools

    Tip: If you have an allotment very often people will lend you tools until you can source your own. Sometimes your local allotment shop will also sell used tools.

    🌻 Final Thoughts:

    No-dig organic gardening is about working with nature, not against it, and that includes how we use tools. From spoons as trowels from milk bottles to watering cans, every homemade creation and recycled tool saves money and keeps waste out of landfill.

    Start small, repurpose what you have, and let the way you choose to garden dictate the tools you need.

    Let me know in the comments what tools you could not do without or what makeshift alternatives are you still using years later?

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  • Ultimate Guide to Growing Overwintering Onions

    A collection of brown onions on the top half and red onions on the bottom half of the image.

    🧅 Why Grow Overwintering Onions?

    I love onions and grow at least 50 from both sets and seeds every year – more about onion sets later. This humble Allium is a kitchen essential; it’s the base for many dishes around the world, from an Italian ragu to Indian curry. Onions bring sweetness, sharpness, and depth to cooking everywhere. In our house, they are the Queen of our home crops. Onions have been valued for centuries for their health benefits, being rich in antioxidants, vitamin C, and sulphur compounds that can support heart health and overall immunity.

    Onions are believed to have arrived in Britain with the Romans, who prized them for their flavour, ease of storage, and medicinal uses. Today, onions are still one of the easiest and most rewarding crops to grow. They are often one of the first crops people consider when trying a more self-sufficient lifestyle, as they are relatively easy to grow.

    In this post, we will discover the overwintering method along with some practical tips to make your harvest a success.

    🌿 The Ideal Soil for Onions

    Onions thrive in well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH (6.5–7.5). Heavy clay should be improved with compost or grit to prevent waterlogging, which can rot bulbs during wet winters. Even these hardy crops don’t like to be constantly wet – they are plants not 🦆 ducks.

    If soil isn’t ideal, you can try raised beds or containers. I grow most of my veg in no-dig raised beds, partly because we are on heavy clay and I find I get far fewer weeds with raised beds.

    • Raised beds: Warm faster in spring and drain more freely – ideal for onions.
    • Large containers: At least 12 in (30 cm) deep, filled with loam-based compost mixed with sharp sand, are excellent for compact spaces.

    Before planting, if possible, try using an organic soil feed, such as seaweed, alfalfa meal (lucerne meal), or a mix of home-made compost or quality peat-free compost and rock dust (organic rock dust mineral fertiliser or volcanic rock dust available from most good garden centres) . These provide slow-release nutrients and trace minerals that support healthy bulb formation and soil structure.
    Avoid excessive nitrogen – lush leaves may look good, but they’ll reduce bulb size and shorten storage life. These are not essential, but may be helpful, especially if your soil is poor or you want nice big bulbs.

    🌰 Planting Onions for Overwintering

    Overwintering onions are best planted from sets (small immature bulbs) between late September and early November, giving them time to root before their winter dormancy. Onion sets can be purchased from any quality garden centre or nursery. I generally decide on hardy verities which I find work well in a UK climate.

    Planting guide:

    • Depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) deep, with just the tip of the bulb visible.
    • Spacing: 4–6 in (10–15 cm) between bulbs and 10–12 in (25–30 cm) between rows.
    • Site: Choose a sunny, sheltered spot protected from frost pockets and waterlogging.
    • How: Plant with the root end in the soil, pointy end toward the sky – I know sounds obvious, but when I was new to growing my own veg I needed all the help I could get!
    • Cover: This is optional but I always cover my newly planted onion sets with a fine piece of chicken wire. I’m convinced our local bird life watch me plant, and when the coast is clear they swoop down and dig them all up. So I peg down some chicken wire until the bulbs become a little more established.
    A collage of various onion bulbs showing their planting ends, labeled 'Planting End'.

    For raised beds and pots follow the same rules – just ensure proper drainage and airflow.

    I’ve mentioned in previous posts that I buy my raised beds from a company called ‘Estate to Garden’ https://www.estatetogarden.co.uk/ I’m not affiliated in any way, I just love their products.

    If you are interested in finding out more about gardening in raised beds, this might be the read for you How to start with raised beds

    ❄️Caring for Onions Through Winter

    Once planted, onions are fairly low-maintenance, but they do need attention during the cold months or with a run of dry weather.

    • Watering: Only if the soil dries out during mild spells.
    • Weeding: Keep the planting area clear of weeds to reduce competition.
    • Protection: In very cold conditions (below –5 °C / 23 °F), cover with fleece or cloches.
    • Feeding: In early spring, you might want to use some organic potash to boost bulb formation.

    As days begin to lengthen in spring, your onions will burst into growth – keep soil loose and weed-free to ensure good air circulation.

    Don’t worry if you see a little growth over winter, especially if conditions are mild. This generally means the plant is establishing itself. Just watch out for sudden frost. If you know a frost is due after a dry warm spell then protect the bulbs with a light fleece or row cover. A good mulch will also help insulate the soil. Generally onions are hardy plants as long as they don’t get waterlogged which can cause the bulb to rot.

    My general advice if planting overwinter onions is to choose a hardy variety for your particular growing zone. For more on hardiness zones see https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/rhs-hardiness-rating The UK is mostly falls into the US zones 6 to 9.

    🌾 Best Onion Varieties for Overwintering in the UK

    Not all onions are equal when it comes to overwintering. Some varieties store for months; others deliver unbeatable flavour or frost resistance. Here are five of the best for UK gardeners:

    🟡 ‘Senshyu Yellow’

    • Origin: Japanese variety
    • Strengths: Hardy, early to mature, mild flavour
    • Storage: 2–3 months
    • Best for: Early harvests and reliable performance

    🧄 ‘Radar’

    • Strengths: Extremely hardy, frost-resistant, strong flavour
    • Storage: Up to 4 months -dehydrate or freeze for longer storage.
    • Best for: Tough UK winters and dependable yields

    🔴 ‘Electric’ (Red Onion)

    • Strengths: Sweet, colourful, and full of character
    • Storage: Shorter (2 months) again freeze or dehydrate for longer storage
    • Best for: Flavour and visual appeal in salads and cooking

    🟤 ‘Shakespeare’

    • Strengths: Vigorous, disease-resistant, long storage life (up to 6 months)
    • Best for: Resilience and long-term use in the kitchen

    ⚪ ‘Troy’

    • Strengths: Quick-growing, balanced flavour, bolt-resistant
    • Storage: Moderate (3–4 months)
    • Best for: Consistent results and high yields

    🐛 Organic Pest Control for Overwintering Onions

    Even the hardiest onions can attract a few unwelcome guests. Overwintered crops are particularly vulnerable to onion fly, slugs, and allium leaf miner. Keeping these critters in check organically will protect your bulbs without harming beneficial insects.

    🪰 Onion Fly

    Onion fly larvae tunnel into the bulbs, causing rot and stunted growth.


    Prevention tips:

    • Use fine mesh or insect netting from planting time until mid-summer to block egg-laying adults.
    • Rotate crops yearly – received wisdom is never plant onions or leeks in the same bed two years running. But with the no-dig method of gardening, I would argue to the contrary. Personally, I have planted both leeks and onions in the same place for several years with no issue. However, each to their own, as with all gardening, you will find what works best for your own growing conditions.
    • Lift and destroy affected bulbs promptly to stop larvae spreading.

    🐌 Slugs and Snails

    These pests can damage emerging shoots during mild spells.


    Control methods:

    • Scatter crushed eggshells, wool pellets, or natural slug barriers around plants.
    • Hedgehogs, frogs, and ground beetles – your best allies in slug control.
    • Avoid beer traps over winter; they attract slugs from surrounding. One of the best ways to to ensure the planting area is clear of debris, and had pick the offending beasties at dusk.

    🪱 Allium Leaf Miner

    A newer UK pest, the allium leaf miner, lays eggs in onion leaves, causing wilting and discolouration.

    Protection tips:

    • Cover crops with fine insect mesh from October through spring.
    • Remove and dispose of any infested foliage—do not compost it.
    • Growing strong-smelling herbs like chives or rosemary nearby may also deter adults

    🌞 When to Harvest and How to Cure Onions

    By June or early July, your overwintered onions should be ready to harvest. When the leaves start to yellow and bend naturally, it’s time to lift them. I have a post about harvesting onions that might be of use here Harvesting Onion – Lift don’t pull.

    Harvesting steps:
    • Gently loosen soil with a fork and avoid bruising the bulbs.
    • Lay onions in a dry, airy location such as a greenhouse or shed. If the greenhouse gets overly hot and sunny, it might be worth covering with a dark netting just to shield them a bit from the direct sunlight
    • Let them cure for 2–3 weeks until the skins are papery and necks sealed.

    Once cured, trim leaves and roots. Store in mesh bags or trays in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space. Check periodically, removing any soft or mouldy bulbs.

    🌻 Final Thoughts

    With the right soil, hardy varieties, and minimal care, you can enjoy an early harvest of onions. Whether in raised beds, borders, or pots, these resilient bulbs prove that patience and preparation pay off in the garden.

    Let me know in the comments your top tips for overwintering onions.

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  • Accessible Gardening Tips for Everyone

    Gardening is one of life’s great joys. It keeps us active, brings us outside, and rewards us with fresh, healthy food. But sometimes the work involved—bending, lifting, carrying, and long hours on the plot—can become harder to manage. There are many reasons why at various time in your life gardening may prove more challenging. Times when your health or physical ability are limited, either temporarily or permanently. The good news is that with a few clever adaptations, some forward planning you can still enjoy growing your own vegetables, without it feeling overwhelming.

    This post address some of the adaptions, and suggestions for making gardening a bit more accessible for everyone.

    I do need to set some boundaries before we start. Firstly I’m not an expert, I have taken the suggestions in this blog from various disability focused websites, a wee bit of personal experience and general internet research. Secondly please don’t take my suggestions without doing your own research first, especially if you intend to spend money on a product. Thirdly I would also strongly recommend you consult a doctor or specialist to discuss your health needs in connection with gardening.

    Reduce bending, kneeling and repetitive strain

    Bending and kneeling are often the hardest parts of gardening. With the right setup and tools, you can protect your back and joints.

    Practical ideas:

    • Raised beds at different heights: Bringing the soil up to waist level means less stooping and kneeling. Beds can be built to suit different needs—standing, seated, or wheelchair height.
    • Containers on benches or tables: Lift pots (get someone to help you lift) and troughs up onto sturdy surfaces. Not only does this save your back, it can also create a lovely display of grouped vegetables or herbs.
    • Long-handled and ergonomic tools: If plants are at ground level extended handles can help keep you upright while hoeing or weeding. Padded grips can reduce strain on wrists.
    • Vertical gardening: Grow upwards with trellises, wigwams, or wall planters can help reduce bending. Beans, cucumbers, and tomatoes all climb well, making harvesting easier.
    • Garden kneelers with handles: These double as a seat and a support when you need to get lower. My advice for these types of garden kneelers is to buy the best you can afford as the cheaper ones often break. If you know a good carpenter they may be able to make you something bespoke and you can a cushion for extra comfort.
    • Back supports and braces: These can give extra stability, especially for longer sessions. They can be quite reasonably priced but may get hot and uncomfortable in the heat of the summer. They are useful for infrequent digging and twisting jobs where muscles are not built up for those particular tasks.
    • Use wheels for heavy loads: A lightweight barrow, trolley, or rolling cart saves your back. Break heavy jobs into smaller tasks and carry lighter loads. More frequent trips with lighter loads might seem counter intuitive but it can save injury or further muscle strain.
    • Switch tasks regularly: Avoid long spells of the same job. Alternate between sowing, watering, and harvesting to give your body a break.
    A sturdy hand truck with a tall frame and a large rubber wheel, designed for transporting heavy items easily.

    Improve mobility and access in the garden

    Getting around the garden or allotment safely and easily makes a big difference. Uneven paths, heavy tools, and long walks with a watering can all take the joy out of gardening.

    Practical ideas:

    • Smooth, wide pathways: Level, firm paths reduce trip hazards and make moving around more comfortable. Paths can be expensive to put in – but if you need them to be able to enjoy your garden then it might be worth considering. It also helps to keep your gardening space clear of possible trip hazards i.e. errant pots, bits of netting, garden tools. Obviously if you need ramps for wheelchair or frame access you may need to take advice from a qualified garden designer or builder to ensure ramps and paths are safe.
    • Zoning your space: Keep your most-used beds, compost bins, and water butts close together so you don’t have to make long trips. It’s worth taking time to consider the design of your gardening area, think about what you will need an plan your area well.
    • Rolling stools or wagons: Sit while you work, and use the storage underneath for tools. If you are in the market for one of these pieces of kit make sure you go to a reputable supplier and try them out before you buy. Some are studier than others so make sure you feel secure on it when sitting.
    • Tool caddies and buckets: Keep tools with you to save repeated trips to the shed. Anything from a bucket, basket, or box will do just make sure it’s easy to carry.
    • Lightweight barrows and trolleys: Two-wheeled barrows and folding carts are stable and easy to manoeuvre. Four wheeled barrows can also be useful as they are more stable yet still manoeuvrable. Keep in mind when planning your plot and you beds to leave enough space to wheel your barrow between the beds.
    • Accessible allotments: Many councils and allotment associations offer plots with wider paths, water points nearby, or raised beds. It’s always worth asking about options.

    Make planting and harvesting easier for tired or low vision eyes

    Gardening relies a lot on eyesight—spotting seedlings, reading seed packets, or identifying weeds. With small changes, you can make tasks simpler and safer.

    Practical ideas:

    • Large, clear labels: Use bold, high-contrast plant markers so crops are easy to identify. Labels can be colour coded with tape or tied with bright ribbon.
    • Bigger seeds or pre-spaced seed tapes: Beans, peas, and courgettes are easier to handle than tiny seeds. Seed tapes can reduce the fiddly part of sowing.
    • Contrasting containers and edging: Growing in light pots with dark soil (or vice versa) makes seedlings stand out. Raised bed edges also help define planting spaces. Put tape or paint darker pots so they stand out.
    • Smell and touch: Herbs and textured plants like mint, rosemary, or chives are easy to recognise without relying on sight alone.
    • Bright tape: Use this to mark the edged of garden beds, garden furniture, or your small handle tools to distinguish their use.
    • Sound beacon: A water feature, or wind chimes to identify certain areas of your space. Leave a radio on where you are working, so if you move from your work area you can easily identify your way back to your workspace.
    • Good lighting: Solar or plug-in task lights make evening gardening safer and easier.

    Make watering and feeding less effort

    Watering is essential but can be one of the heaviest jobs. Smart systems help reduce the strain.

    Practical ideas:

    • Drip irrigation or soaker hoses: These water plants slowly and directly at the roots, cutting out most manual watering. These can get expensive so make sure you do some research before you buy.
    • Water butts near beds: Place several around the garden so there’s always a nearby water source. Anything will do to collect water, an old bin, or a large bucket. Our polytunnel is away from the house & while our extendable hose will reach it’s a pain to get out and drag down to the tunnel. So we keep a water butt in the polytunnel, fill it when we have the hose out, then use the water from the butt. It’s ideal for those quick watering’s without having to drag 200 foot of hose across the garden
    • Self-watering pots and wicking beds: Containers with built-in reservoirs reduce the need for daily watering. Again these can be pricy although during the colder wetter months you can often find these on sale.
    • Mulching: A thick layer of compost, straw or small woodchips holds moisture, reduces weeds, can cut down on watering. Don’t underestimate the power of a good mulch. If you get the chance one summer do a test of side by side pots, mulch one and leave the other – after a few days pop you finger about an inch into the soil underneath and notice how the mulched pot retains moisture.
    • Lightweight watering tools: Choose smaller watering cans, a hose reel on wheels, or spray nozzles with easy triggers. Many hose attachments have a trigger, but be careful as some of them you have to manually depress constantly. This can be tricky with conditions such as arthritis, so try to get one that you don’t need to keep depressed.

    Choose easy, rewarding crops

    The right crops can give you healthy harvests with less work.

    Good options:

    • Salad leaves and spinach: Quick, forgiving, and keep producing after cutting.
    • Bush beans and dwarf peas: Productive, compact, and easy to harvest.
    • Cherry tomatoes: Perfect for pots, only need light staking, and crop for weeks.
    • Potatoes in bags or towers: No digging required—just tip out when ready.
    • Herbs: Low-maintenance, fragrant, and useful every day in the kitchen.
    • Perennials like asparagus or rhubarb: Plant once, harvest for years
    • Crops that can be grown vertically such as beans, cucumber, tomatoes,

    Extra tips for allotments

    Allotments are wonderful community spaces, but they can sometimes be more demanding than home gardens. A few changes help make them easier to manage.

    Practical ideas:

    • Ask for accessible plots: Many allotment associations now provide raised beds, level paths, or plots near entrances.
    • Share work with neighbours: Team up for heavy jobs like turning compost or moving soil.
    • Shared resources: Look for communal tool sheds, compost bays, or water points to reduce trips.
    • Ask for help: Don’t be afraid to ask for help, we all want our independence, but there is no point in making your condition worse or tiring yourself out because you didn’t ask the folk around you to help.

    Look after your body as well as your garden

    Gardening is exercise, so treat it that way. Working smart helps you stay comfortable.

    Practical ideas:

    • Warm up before tasks: Simple stretches protect your joints. It sounds silly to say warm and stretch your body before you do physical gardening tasks but it’s wise to approach this in the same way you would an exercise class.
    • Work “little and often”: 20–30 minute sessions with breaks are easier than hours at a stretch.
    • Alternate sitting and standing: Vary positions to avoid strain.
    • Supportive footwear and gloves: Prevent slips and protect your hands. It’s really tempting to just pop your flip fops on to do a bit of light gardening. However, once you are out there and get side tracked (we all get side tracked in the garden 😊) with more meaty tasks you risk not only damaging your feet, but also slips and trips. It’s a pain we all know – but please put your gardening shoes on!
    • Again ask for help when needed: Whether it’s lifting bags of compost or installing raised beds, sharing the load means you can keep gardening for longer.

    Quick Checklist

    • At least one raised bed at waist height.
    • Rolling stool or kneeler with handles nearby.
    • Long-handled tools and lightweight barrow.
    • Drip hose or water butt close to beds.
    • Clear labels and bold markers for plants.
    • 20–30 minutes of work, then a break.

    Final Thoughts

    Gardening doesn’t have to stop when the work feels harder. With a few smart adjustments—whether it’s raised beds, lighter tools, or watering systems—you can keep enjoying fresh vegetables without compromising your health. The key is to garden smarter, not harder, and to create a space that works for you. It doesn’t need to be pretty, it just needs to be safe and allow you to continue enjoy your garden.

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  • October Gardening: Best Crops to Sow Now

    An infographic illustrating various vegetables to sow in October, including broad beans, carrots, garlic, spinach, spring onions, winter lettuce, and peas, set against a light green background with the title 'What to sow in October'.

    As autumn deepens and we start thinking about putting the heating on, many gardeners put their tools away, assuming the growing season is over. But in the UK and other temperate Zone 9-ish climates, October can be an excellent month for sowing hardy crops that thrive in cooler conditions. The soil is still holding some of the summers warmth and the moisture levels ideal. So now is the time to think ahead. By sowing into open ground, raised beds, or containers, and making use of mulching, you can harvest fresh greens in winter and early spring. Now is the ideal time to enjoy the many benefits of overwintering crops. It’s an ideal strategy for beginner gardeners as the crops below are relatively easy to grow, as long as you keep them protected.

    Broad Beans (Vicia faba)

    Broad beans are a staple October sowing. Sow seeds roughly 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 7 to 8 inches (20 cm) apart in open ground, raised beds or pots. In heavy clay soils, raised beds can improve drainage, but if planting direct make sure the seeds do not get waterlogged. Like many seeds they are prone to rot, so consider sowing under cover until the plat is well established. Germination is best between 10–20°C . Young seedlings benefit from fleece during harsh frosts but the plant will gradually grow into sturdy a stem that will withstand cool conditions. Aphids (Black bean aphid) are a common pest; encourage ladybirds and lacewings, or use organic sprays such as diluted soap solutions. Removing aphids early can help the spread considerably but if its mulching around plants conserves soil warmth and reduces weeds.

    Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

    Spinach thrives in cooler autumn temperatures. Sow seeds 1–2 cm deep in fertile, moist soil, either directly in the ground, in containers or raised beds. Germination occurs best between 10–16°C. Spinach produces leafy rosettes that can be harvested as baby leaves within 6–8 weeks and continue through winter with protection. I cover mine with netting but try to raise it well above the plants to allow for good airflow. I also use further protection for young plants when transplanting into their final position in the form of a closh fashioned from a 5lt water bottle.

    A transparent plastic bottle used as a cloche to protect young plants in a garden bed, with soil visible underneath.

    Mulch with compost to retain soil moisture and a moderate temperature. Slugs and snails are the main threat — organic controls include beer traps, copper tape, or evening hand-picking all work well. If you want to wrap copper tape around your closh that can be helpful. I regularly spray with a home made garlic spray. The pungent smell irritates the slugs and snails sensitive mucus membrane. To make the spray just peel 3 or 4 cloves, cut in half, pop them in a spray bottle and fill with water. Leave this for a few days for the garlic to infuse. Spray directly on the spinach a couple of times a week.

    Winter Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

    Choose hardy varieties such as ‘Winter Density’ or ‘Arctic King’ these are excellent for October sowings. Seeds should be sown thinly, just under the soil surface, either under cloches in the ground or in trays and modules under cover. A green house or polytunnel is ideal, however if you don’t have either cover a seed tray with a clear seed tray cover of lose clear plastic until seeds have germinated. Germination is best at 10–15°C. Plants form compact heads or loose-leaf rosettes that can be harvested from late winter through early spring. Mulch with straw or leaf mould to insulate roots and deter weeds. Protect plants from frost with fleece or cloches. Slugs are the main pest; barriers of wool pellets or sand can provide effective organic defence, or see the tips above for spinach.

    Garlic (Allium sativum) and Spring Onions (Allium cepa var. cepa)

    Garlic cloves should be planted 2–3 cm deep, spaced 10–15 cm apart, in well-drained soil or raised beds. They require a cold spell to develop bulbs. For a full guide on how to grow garlic see my post Overwintering garlic: A new growers guide

    Spring Onions (Allium cepa var. cepa)

    Spring onions, such as ‘White Lisbon Winter Hardy,’ can be sown under cover in modules or trays as soon as possible. Sow thinly at 1 cm deep; germination is best between 10–20°C. Spring onions benefit from mulching, this improves soil structure and keeps weeds at bay. Pests include onion fly and rust; rotating crops, ensuring good airflow and netting will all provide organic prevention.

    Peas (Pisum sativum)

    Hardy varieties like ‘Meteor’ can be sown directly in October for a potential early May crop. Plant seeds 5 cm deep and 5–8 cm apart in double rows, with supports already in place. It’s important to put your supports in when you plant – putting them in once the plant is well established risks damaging the roots as the support goes in. Germination occurs quite reliably in cool soils between 7–15°C. Plants grow slowly through winter before flourishing in early spring. Cover emerging shoots with netting to prevent bird damage. Mildew can be an issue later, but mulching to keep soil moisture consistent, combined with adequate spacing, helps reduce risk organically. Powdery mildew often occurs as the weather warms and the plant tends to get a but humid. Again airflow is key, but some people swear by spraying the affected areas with milk spray. Three parts water, to one part milk in a spray bottle applied to the plant.

    Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus)

    Cold-hardy varieties such as ‘Autumn King’ can still be sown in October in light, sandy soils, ideally in raised beds or pots. Sow thinly 1 cm deep in rows 15–20 cm apart. Germination is best in soils between 7–20°C. Growth will be slow but steady, producing sweet roots by early spring. Carrot fly is the main pest, but mesh barriers or sowing in raised beds taller than 60 cm offer effective organic protection. Mulching helps retain moisture and prevent frost damage to young seedlings. Protect with a loose layer of net and remove when seeds have germinated.

    Final Thoughts

    Sowing in October is all about working with nature’s rhythms. I try to choose hardy varieties that can withstand cooler climates. I use mulches like straw, peat free compost, and leaf mould to insulate roots, suppress weeds, and improve soil health. Because I am an organic gardener I use organic controls to deal with the critters that are attracted to winter crops. By embracing overwintering, and having a little patience to wait for spring, you’ll not only extend your growing season but will also get a head start on the next growing season.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts and exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button.