Overwintering Garlic: A New Growers Guide

A Guide for new growers

Garlic is a staple in many kitchens around the world and one of the most rewarding crops to grow at home. Overwintering garlic—planting the cloves in autumn (fall) so they establish roots before winter—ensures a strong, healthy harvest the following summer. Unlike spring planting, autumn sowing allows garlic to benefit from the natural cold period, generally producing larger, more flavoursome bulbs. For gardeners in many areas (particularly in the UK), this is the tried-and-trusted method of getting reliable results from your plot or raised bed or container.

When you purchase garlic for planting it will generally come as a whole bulb. To plant you will need to separate out the individual cloves. Plant each clove about 2 inches (5cm) deep with the pointed end facing up. They should be about 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) apart. More on this later.

Two main types of garlic

There are two main types of garlic: hardneck and softneck. Hardneck garlic produces a firm central stalk known as a scape, with larger cloves arranged in a single ring around the stem. It has a strong, complex flavour but a shorter storage life. I grow both types and try to use my hardneck garlic first. This, as ever, is where it’s important to label your crops Labelling: simple but vital

Softneck garlic, in contrast, has no central scape and produces more numerous but smaller cloves in multiple layers. While often milder in flavour, softneck garlic stores for much longer. I have been using stored softneck garlic for well over a year. This makes softneck ideal for long term use and there is nothing more lovely than seeing a hanging braid of garlic in the pantry. Your choice of garlic will depend on your local climate and how long you’d like your garlic to keep.

Hardneck

Hardneck garlic grows best in colder parts of the world (the UK in particular) and benefits from a pronounced winter chill. It prefers well-drained soil and protection from waterlogging, so raised beds are often a good option. If planting direct in the ground make sure it’s a spot that doesn’t flood or pool in wet weather. I would recommend trying some of the following varieties ‘Carcassonne Wight’, ‘Lautrec Wight’, and ‘Purple Moldovan’, if in the UK. However, it’s always best to choose the variety that is most suited to your particular region, a quick internet search will help you identify appropriate varieties. My pick of varieties will give you patient robust flavours and attractive cloves, though they usually need to be eaten within a few months of harvest. Mulching with straw or compost helps insulate bulbs against frost and keeps weeds down.

Softneck

Softneck garlic is more adaptable and better suited to milder regions. It doesn’t need as much cold to form cloves and usually stores far longer than hardnecks. Popular UK varieties include ‘Solent Wight’, ‘Early Purple Wight’, and ‘Messidrome’. These varieties are dependable croppers, producing bulbs that will keep well into the next year. They grow well both in open ground and raised beds, as long as soil remains moist but not waterlogged. A mulch layer is still advisable, especially in exposed gardens. I have had good success with Solent Wight planted in late October/early November.

Hardneck vs Softneck Garlic at a glance

Your choice will depend on your climate and how long you want your garlic to keep.

When buying garlic for planting, always source certified seed garlic from a reputable supplier. Tempting as it might be to plant cloves from the supermarket they are often treated to prevent sprouting and may carry disease. Separate the cloves just before planting, keeping their papery skins intact. Plant cloves pointy side up, around 2 inches 95 cm) deep, spacing them 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart with 12 inches (30 cm) between rows. Planting is usually done in October or November, about 4–6 weeks before the ground hardens with frost. Both raised beds and well-prepared garden soil work well, but good drainage is essential. As I say in almost every blog, these are plants not ducks and they don’t like permanently wet feet 🦆

Once your cloves are safely in the ground, garlic needs little attention over the winter months. A mulch of compost, leaves or fine woodchips, will protect against temperature swings and reduce weed growth. Through winter, garlic lies largely dormant, but roots continue to develop below the surface. Come spring, green shoots emerge and regular watering will support their rapid growth. Don’t panic if you start to see green shoots prior to spring, this can happen especially during a mild winter.

Harvest typically comes in July (mid-summer), when the lower leaves begin to yellow but several green leaves remain. Cure your bulbs in a dry, airy place before storing them—softnecks may last until the following spring, while hardnecks are best eaten sooner.

Curing is the process of hanging or laying your garlic harvest out to dry. Hang or lay the whole plant in a raised, shaded, dry spot with plenty of airflow. Do not cure in direct sunlight. I dry mine on a slatted shelf in my polytunnel loosely covered with a ventilated black shade cloth. I also use one of our log stores under which I construct makeshift drying racks. Cure your garlic for around two to four weeks or until the stem are completely brown and dry. The curing process allows the outer papery layers to harden off, which helps significantly with storage longevity.

Growing Garlic in Containers

If you don’t have access to a garden bed or allotment, garlic grows surprisingly well in containers. Choose a pot at least 20 cm (8 inches) deep with plenty of drainage holes. Fill with a free-draining compost mixed with some horticultural grit or sand to prevent waterlogging. Plant cloves 2 inches (5 cm) deep, leaving 4 inches (10 cm) between them. Smaller pots may only fit 3–4 cloves, while larger troughs or planters could hold a full row.

Containers should be placed in the sunniest position you have, such as a patio, or balcony. Water sparingly in winter to avoid soggy compost, then more regularly in spring and early summer as growth accelerates. Just like in the ground, garlic in containers will be ready to harvest in July. Allow bulbs to dry thoroughly before storing, as container-grown garlic is slightly more prone to rot if cured improperly.

If you have space for a good quality raised bed these are ideal for growing garlic. I purchase mine from a company in the UK called ‘Estate to Garden’ Estate to garden. They have excellent quality raised beds which are reasonably priced and easy to construct. I have no affiliate links with this company, I just like their products.

Regardless of where you choose to grow your garlic make sure you try to harvest your crop on a sunny day. Although your garlic will still dry out, harvesting in dry weather will help prevent fungal disease and decay during storage. Harvesting in dry firm soil will also help damaging the roots when lifting. Garlic should be harvested using the same method as onions – so lift don’t pull, you can read more about lifting here Harvesting Onions – lift don’t pull!

Garlic Planting & Growing Calendar (UK)

• September – Prepare beds with well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Add compost or well-rotted manure.
• October–November – Plant cloves 2 inches ( 5 cm) deep and mulch well.
• December–February (Winter) – Minimal care needed; keep beds weed-free, mulch if needed.
• March–May (Spring) – Shoots appear; water during dry spells and keep soil evenly moist. Feed with a general organic fertiliser if growth is weak. A good comfrey tea would work well.
• June – Watch for signs of maturity: lower leaves begin to yellow. Reduce watering to avoid bulb rot.
• July – Harvest when 5–6 green leaves remain. Cure in a dry, shaded, airy place for 2–3 weeks. Store softneck garlic until spring; enjoy hardneck sooner.

Companion Planting with Garlic

Garlic not only provides delicious bulbs but also acts as a natural pest deterrent in the garden. Its strong scent helps repel aphids, carrot fly, and even slugs to a degree. Garlic pairs well with crops such as carrots, beetroot, strawberries, lettuce, and tomatoes, as it discourages pests while taking up little space. Planting garlic near roses can also help deter greenfly. However, garlic doesn’t get along particularly well with legumes like peas and beans, as it can inhibit their growth. Strategic planting can make your garlic pull double duty: tasty harvests and natural pest protection.

Closing Thoughts

Overwintering garlic is one of the simplest and most rewarding ways to grow. By choosing the right variety for your climate, preparing well-drained soil (containers or raised beds), and giving your cloves a head start in autumn, you’ll enjoy a generous harvest of flavourful bulbs by midsummer. Whether you opt for robust hardnecks long-storing softnecks, or a mixture of both, garlic fits easily into most spaces and even provides benefits to neighbouring plants. With just a little effort in autumn, you’ll be reaping the rewards the following year—garlic that’s fresher, tastier, and more satisfying than anything you’ll find in the shops.

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