Solitaire Gardener

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Tag: organic gardening

  • Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation

    Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation

    A woman standing in a garden, observing tomato plants and other vegetables, surrounded by a wooden fence and greenery.

    At this time of year, the vegetable patch seems to change almost daily. Tomatoes are ripening, potato foliage starts to yellow, and courgettes (zucchini) somehow manage to double in size overnight.

    It’s an exciting, busy time of year, and with so much to do, it’s easy to fall into the trap of constantly thinking about the next job:

    • More watering
    • More sowing
    • More weeding
    • More harvesting
    • More jobs!

    But one of the most valuable gardening skills has very little to do with compost, tools or seed packets. It’s learning to slow down, observe, and really notice what your garden is trying to tell you.

    It sounds simple, but this habit can save you time, prevent problems, and make you a far more confident gardener. Taking just 5 or 10 minutes to practice observing will bring you a greater understanding of plant development and what works (or doesn’t) in your growing space.

    Your Garden Is Always Trying to Teach You Something

    Every season your garden gives you clues. As new gardeners, we naturally look for instructions, when to sow, when to water and how to solve problems.

    Over time, however, you begin to realise that your own garden is often the best teacher. Every plot/patch or pot is different, and the more closely you observe yours, the better you’ll understand what works, what doesn’t, and why.

    The question is whether you’re taking the time to notice and act on what it’s trying to tell you.

    Notice What Thrives – And What Doesn’t

    Have you ever grown a crop in the same place two years in a row and been disappointed both times? Perhaps the plants never seemed particularly vigorous. Maybe they struggled to produce a decent harvest or always looked slightly unhappy.

    It’s tempting to blame the weather and try the same thing again next year. Instead, take a closer look and ask better questions.

    • Is that part of the garden more exposed to wind?
    • Does the soil dry out quickly?
    • Is it shaded for longer than you realised?
    • Could it benefit from a little more shelter?

    Sometimes gardening isn’t about trying harder. It’s about recognising when a crop would simply be happier in a different spot.

    Learn the Difference Between a Problem and a Process

    One of the easiest mistakes for beginner gardeners is assuming that every change in a plant means something has gone wrong.

    In reality, plants are constantly changing as they grow.

    For example, lower leaves on tomatoes may yellow as the plant matures. Potato foliage naturally changes through the season. Onion tops begin to yellow and fall over as the bulbs approach maturity.

    Not every yellow leaf is a crisis; not every blemish needs a treatment.

    One of the biggest steps towards becoming a confident gardener is learning which changes are perfectly normal and which genuinely need your attention. The more seasons you observe, the easier this becomes.

    Watch How Vegetables Grow

    Some of the most valuable observations happen when we simply watch how our crops develop.

    Take potatoes, for example.

    Most people know that potatoes grow underground, but fewer pay attention to the stages above ground. Notice when the plants begin flowering. Different varieties behave differently, but flowering often coincides with tuber development beneath the soil. When the foliage begins to yellow and die back, the tuber is generally ready for harvest.

    You don’t need to keep digging around to see what’s happening. The plant is already giving you information.

    The same is true of onions.

    As harvest approaches, the neck softens, and the foliage begins to yellow and flop over. New gardeners sometimes worry that the plants are dying when, in reality, they are preparing for harvest. For more on harvesting onions see here Harvesting Onions – lift don’t pull!

    Courgettes/zucchini offer another excellent lesson in observation. Early in the season, plants often produce male flowers before female flowers appear.

    The male flowers sit on long, thin stems. Female flowers have a tiny immature courgette directly behind the bloom.

    Once you know the difference, you’ll never look at a courgette plant in quite the same way again. For more on abundant courgettes/zucchini, see here: Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips

    Understanding which flowers are which can help you recognise pollination problems and, if necessary, hand-pollinate flowers yourself.

    More importantly, it helps you understand what the plant is doing and why.

    Once you begin recognising these natural signals, you’ll rely less on the dates printed on seed packets and more on what your own plants are telling you. Growing guides are invaluable, but your garden will always be the best guide to what’s happening in your particular conditions.

    Become Curious About Successes

    Most of us pay close attention when things go wrong.

    We notice:

    • The slug damage.
    • The yellowing leaves.
    • The failed germination.

    But how often do we stop to investigate success?

    Imagine one lettuce survives untouched while the others are reduced to lacework by slugs.

    Do we ask:

    • Was it growing in a slightly drier position?
    • Was it closer to a path?
    • Did it happen to be planted near chives, spring onions, garlic, or another strongly scented plant?
    • Was it simply the first plant the slugs overlooked?

    You may never know for certain, but curiosity is valuable. Curiosity is one of the best gardening tools you can develop. Today’s observation often becomes next year’s success.

    Notice the Patterns in Your Garden

    Every garden develops patterns:

    • The corner that stays damp after rain.
    • The bed that warms up first in spring.
    • The spot where carrots always seem happier.
    • The area where slugs appear after every wet evening.
    • The plants that dry out first during warm weather.
    • The flowers that bees visit most often.

    These patterns become visible only when you slow down enough to see them, and once you do, they can transform how you garden.

    Keeping a small notebook and jotting things down will help.

    Jot down things like:

    • First potato flowers
    • First ripe tomato
    • Areas affected by slugs
    • Crops that performed well
    • Places where plants struggled
    • Unexpected successes

    A few notes this year can make planning next year’s garden far easier.

    Pay Attention to Pests and Problems

    Observing pests in particular is one of the best ways to catch problems early.

    Look for:

    • Small nibbles in lettuce leaves
    • Aphids gathering on soft new growth
    • Whitefly on brassicas
    • Slug trails on damp mornings
    • Powdery mildew on courgettes later in the season
    • Yellowing leaves that spread rather than remain isolated

    Catching an issue early is often easier than solving a major problem later. But the goal isn’t to become anxious or inspect every leaf obsessively. It’s simply to become familiar with what is normal in your garden.

    Notice the Wildlife Too

    Some of the most useful observations have nothing to do with vegetables. Pay attention to the wildlife as well. Bees, hoverflies, ladybirds and birds all tell you something about the health of your garden. A productive vegetable patch isn’t just full of plants; it’s a thriving ecosystem.

    It’s a community of living things interacting with one another. The more you notice those relationships, the more fascinating growing food becomes.

    Your Garden This Year Is Planning Next Year’s Garden

    Every season leaves behind valuable information. The tomatoes that thrived in one bed, the brassicas that struggled in another, the courgette that needed watering more often than you expected – all of these are quietly helping you plan next year’s garden.

    The most experienced gardeners aren’t necessarily those with the biggest gardens or the longest list of qualifications. They’re often the people who’ve simply learnt to notice more.

    Your garden is quietly teaching you how to grow next year’s crops. All you have to do is pay attention.

    Final Thoughts

    Gardening has a wonderful way of reminding us that not every problem needs an immediate solution. Sometimes the best thing we can do is pause, watch, and learn.

    Every healthy plant, every failed crop, every visiting bee and every nibbled leaf is giving you information. The more attention you pay, the more your confidence will grow. Not because you’ve memorised every gardening rule, but because you’ve learnt to understand your garden.

    So the next time you head outside, leave yourself five minutes before picking up the watering can. Walk slowly, look closely, and let your garden tell its story. You might be surprised by just how much it tells you.

    If you want a good video on the topic of observing your growing space, Huw Richards has some useful tips here: Observe and Interact | Ultimate Gardening Skills Series. It’s an older vid, but still relevant.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful, hit the like button and consider subscribing to the Solitaire Gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    More helpful Veg growing blogs see below

    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening and greater self-sufficiency, please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching – Mindset and Motivation. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or are struggling with motivation, then coaching may be for you. I can help you reach your gardening goals, keeping you motivated and help you plan your self-sufficiency dream your way!

  • Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips

    Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips

    A garden scene featuring lush green zucchini plants with various zucchinis visible among the leaves. An overlay text reads 'I'll hide in plain sight' with an arrow pointing to a hidden zucchini.

    If you’ve ever gone out to admire your courgette/zucchini plants, spotted a perfectly sized fruit, and thought, ‘I’ll pick that tomorrow’. You excitedly wander into the garden the next day, only to discover what appears to be a small submarine lurking under the leaves. You’re not alone. Trust me, I’ve been growing Courgettes/Zucchini for years, and this still happens to me more times than I would like to admit.

    One of the biggest surprises for new gardeners is just how quickly courgettes grow. They seem to spend weeks doing very little and then suddenly decide it’s time to produce more food than any sensible household could possibly eat. The good news is that this means you’re doing something right. The slightly less good news is that if you don’t keep an eye on them, those lovely little courgettes/zucchinis can quickly become full-sized monster marrows.

    Below, we’ll explore how you can avoid this pesky perennial problem with actionable steps.

    From here on in, I’m going to use the term courgette – apologies to folk who use the term zucchini, but here in the UK we call them courgettes, so it’s just a more natural term for me to use.

    When Should You Harvest a Courgette?

    Most courgettes are best harvested when they are around 6–8 inches long (15–20 cm). At this size, the flesh is tender, the skin is soft, and the flavour is arguably at its best. Smaller courgettes are often sweeter and more delicate than larger ones.

    The mistake many new gardeners make is waiting for them to get bigger because bigger feels like better value. In reality, once a courgette is beyond about 10 inches long (25 cm), the seeds begin to develop, the skin thickens, and the texture becomes less appealing.

    That’s not to say larger courgettes are unusable. They can still be grated into cakes, soups, chutneys, and pasta sauces. But if you’re after the classic tender courgette, about 6-8 inches is the perfect size.

    The Secret to More Courgettes

    Here’s a useful trick that newer gardeners should be aware of: picking courgettes regularly actually encourages the plant to produce more fruit.

    The plant’s goal is to mature its fruit and produce seed. If you keep harvesting, the plant thinks it hasn’t finished its job yet and continues producing fresh flowers and new courgettes. Leave several fruits to mature into marrows, and the plant may slow down production considerably.

    Think of harvesting as sending the plant a message: ‘More please!’

    A Few Harvesting Tips

    • Check plants every day during warm weather.
    • Harvest when fruits are 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) long.
    • Use a sharp knife or secateurs rather than pulling fruits off by hand.
    • Cut the stem cleanly about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the fruit.
    • Lift leaves gently when checking plants – courgettes are experts at hiding enormous fruits underneath.

    Many gardeners joke that courgettes don’t grow overnight. They grow when you’re not looking 🫣

    Watering Matters More Than You Might Think

    Courgettes are thirsty plants. Their large leaves lose a lot of moisture, particularly during warm summer weather.

    Aim to water deeply once or twice a week rather than giving little daily sprinkles. During hot spells with temperatures above 25°C (77°F), you may need to water more frequently, especially if plants are growing in containers.

    Try to water around the base of the plant rather than over the leaves. This helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases and ensures water reaches the roots where it’s needed most.

    For more on the concept of ‘deep watering you can read more here Unlock Healthy Growth with Deep Watering Techniques

    A layer of compost or mulch (such as dried leaves, fine wood chips, etc.) around the plant can also help retain moisture and reduce watering needs.

    What If The Leaves Start Looking Papery?

    One thing that often worries new gardeners is when older leaves begin to look dry, rough, or papery.

    In most cases, this is completely normal. Courgette plants produce huge leaves, and as the season progresses, some of the oldest ones naturally age and die back.

    However, papery leaves can sometimes indicate:

    • A lack of water during hot weather
    • Wind scorch
    • Natural ageing of older foliage
    • Powdery mildew later in the season

    If only a few older leaves are affected and the rest of the plant looks healthy, there’s usually no cause for concern. Just remove badly damaged leaves to improve airflow around the plant. In fact, it’s often a good idea to remove some of the lower leaves to help with airflow. Having said that, I wouldn’t lose any sleep over the thinning of leaves. If the plant looks healthy, it should be fine.

    If you notice a white powdery coating developing on leaves, this is often powdery mildew. Improving airflow, watering consistently, and removing the worst-affected leaves can help slow its spread.

    Common Problems and Simple Fixes

    Lots of Flowers But No Courgettes

    Don’t panic. Male flowers appear first and don’t produce fruit. Female flowers arrive shortly afterwards and can be identified by the tiny swelling behind the flower

    Fruits Rotting While Still Small

    This is often caused by poor pollination. Encourage pollinators into the garden by growing flowers nearby, or try hand-pollinating. You can hand-pollinate by using a small paintbrush.

    If you want more information on hand-pollinating courgettes, here are links to a couple of good, easy-to-follow YouTube vids. These will give you more confidence and show you exactly what steps to take to hand-pollinate. Why Aren’t My Squashes Fruiting? Boost pollination of squash, zucchini/courgettes & pumpkins (had pollinating comes in at 5 mins in this vid – but it’s well worth watching the whole thing). This short is also very helpful How to pollinate courgettes!

    Wilted Leaves During the Day

    Courgettes often wilt temporarily in hot sunshine, even when the soil is moist. Check again in the evening before assuming they need water.

    Slugs Attacking Young Plants

    Mature courgettes usually cope well, but younger plants can be vulnerable. Barriers, regular checks, and encouraging natural predators can all help.

    If you’re planting direct, use a closh or netting until the plant is big enough to cope with little beasty slugs.

    If you start seeds in a pot or module tray, pot on into a larger pot until the plant is about 5 – 6 inches tall before transferring to its final growing space. You want a nice, strong, healthy plant before planting out.

    Help! I Have Too Many Courgettes

    This is a surprisingly common problem and one I have almost every year.

    If your plant is producing more than you can eat, consider:

    • Freezing grated courgette
    • Making soup
    • Baking courgette cake
    • Adding it to pasta sauces
    • Making chutney
    • Giving some away to friends, neighbours, or unsuspecting relatives

    You’ll quickly discover that growing courgettes often turns into a community project.

    Although you will be a wee bit late to plant start courgette seeds

    Embrace the Occasional Marrow

    Despite all the jokes, there’s nothing wrong with growing a marrow 😊 In fact, many gardeners deliberately leave one or two fruits on the plant each year to mature into marvellous marrows. These are excellent stuffed, baked, or turned into chutney.

    The important thing is understanding the difference. If you want tender courgettes, harvest little and often. If you want marrows, let them keep growing.

    Either way, few vegetables are as productive, rewarding, or enthusiastic as the humble courgette. Just don’t be surprised if tomorrow’s harvest is twice the size of today’s.

    Final Thoughts

    If your courgettes occasionally get away from you, don’t worry – you’ve joined a very large club of gardeners who’ve discovered a giant fruit lurking under the leaves a week too late. Every oversized courgette is proof that your plant is healthy and productive – so chalk that up as a win.

    Harvest little and often if you can, embrace the occasional marrow if you can’t, and remember: there are far worse gardening problems to have than an abundance of homegrown food. Happy harvesting – and don’t forget to check under those leaves!

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful, hit the like button and consider subscribing to the Solitaire Gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening and greater self-sufficiency, please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching – Mindset and Motivation. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or are struggling with motivation, then coaching may be for you. I can help you reach your gardening goals, keeping you motivated and helping you plan your self-sufficiency dream your way!

  • Top Vegetables to Sow in June for a Bountiful Harvest

    Top Vegetables to Sow in June for a Bountiful Harvest

    A lush garden with various plants and vegetables, surrounded by a wooden fence and a trellis in the background.

    June is a surprisingly good month for sowing vegetables, particularly for crops that enjoy warmer soil and longer daylight hours. While early spring often gets most of the attention, many heat-loving plants actually establish faster and more reliably once the weather and the soil has warmed. In the UK and other temperate climates, June sowings can still provide generous harvests later in summer and well into autumn.

    This is also one of the easiest times for newer gardeners to sow seeds directly into the soil outdoors. Germination is usually quicker, seedlings grow away faster, and there’s less need for heated propagators, grow lights, or balancing trays on windowsills. So if your growing season got off to a slow start, don’t worry, there’s still plenty of time to fill beds, containers, and tubs with healthy, productive vegetables.

    Before we dive in, a word of warning for those with a greenhouse or polytunnel. Last week in the UK it was very hot with many undercover growing areas reaching 40 °C (104 °F) plus. These daytime temps can be quite distressing for seeds, making germination problematic. Seeds generally don’t do well in sizzling soil temperatures. If this is the case for you, It’s worth considering an alternative spot for seed sowing during very hot periods.

    So let’s get into 5 veg seeds you might like to sow in June, some of which will also grow perfectly well in large pots or containers.

    PUMPKINS

    Pumpkins can still be started in early June, particularly in milder parts of the UK and other temperate climates. While giant pumpkins may need a longer season, many smaller and medium-sized varieties grow perfectly well from early June sowings.

    Pumpkins are part of the wide-ranging Cucurbitaceae family. More specifically, they are classified under the genus Cucurbita. Squashes, courgettes/zucchini and butternut squash are also part of this genus. This whole family of plants likes heat and tend to spread out. They require lots of space unless you train them to grow vertically.

    Growing Conditions

    • Sow in rich, fertile soil with plenty of organic matter
    • Ideal temperature: 18–30°C (65–86°F)
    • Sow seeds 1 inch deep (2.5 cm)
    • Plant in a sunny, sheltered position

    Containers?

    It is possible to grow pumpkins in pots – but choose a large container at least 18–24 inches wide (45–60 cm) and keep plants well fed and watered. Pots tend to dry out more quickly, so regular ‘deep watering’ is important. For more on ‘deep watering’, see her Unlock Healthy Growth with Deep Watering Techniques

    Pumpkins are also hungry plants, so adding compost or well-rotted manure before planting will make a noticeable difference to growth and fruit production. In fact, if you have a compost pile that’s not quite ready, it might be the ideal environment to grow pumpkins.

    TURNIPS

    Turnips, bizarrely, are part of the Mustard family (Brassicaceae). I think they are one of the most versatile and underrated vegetables in the garden. A June sowing of turnips can yield a crop of lovely, tender roots for late summer and early autumn.

    They don’t take up much space, and the leaves can be used in a similar way to spinach. So really, you get two crops for the price of one – what’s not to like?

    I know lots of folk, especially in the UK, who view the humble turnip as nothing more than ‘animal feed’. But trust me, a young, sweet roasted turnip with Sunday dinner or in a pan roast with other root veg is an absolute delight.

    Growing Conditions

    • Prefers cooler growing conditions
    • Ideal temperature: 10–18°C (50–65°F)
    • Sow seeds ½ inch deep (1 cm)
    • Thin seedlings carefully for decent-sized roots

    As ever, I try not to thin seeds – I can’t bear ditching them. I try and sow each individual seeds at the allotted packet spacing. However, that’s just my personal preference – you do what works best for you.

    Germination & Harvest

    • Germinates in around 7–10 days
    • Ready in roughly 6–10 weeks

    Containers?

    Turnips can be planted in containers or tubs, but make sure the container is fairly deep. These tasty little all-rounders can have taproots up to 30 inches (76 cm) long, so they need plenty of depth.

    SPRING ONIONS (SCALLIONS)

    Spring onions are fast, satisfying, and ideal for squeezing into spare gaps around the garden. They are extremely versatile in the kitchen, and you can use both the white bulb and the green stalk

    Spring Onions belong to the Amaryllidaceae family – specifically Allium Cepa. This broad family and includes garlic, shallots and chives.

    These are brilliant for small-space gardeners because they take up very little room.

    Growing Conditions

    • Sow directly outdoors
    • Ideal temperature: 10–25°C (50–77°F)
    • Sow thinly at around ½ inch deep (1 cm)
    • Keep watered during dry weather

    Germination & Harvest

    • Germinates in 7–14 days
    • Harvest in roughly 8–10 weeks

    Very suitable for containers and troughs.

    Containers?

    Spring onions are perfect for containers; just make sure the soil in your pots doesn’t dry out. Keep the soil moist (not soaking), and they will be just fine in containers with reasonable spacing.

    KALE (INCLUDING BLACK KALE/CAVOLO NERO)

    Kale is one of the most rewarding crops you can sow in June, particularly because it can continue producing well into autumn and even through winter in milder areas. Black kale, often sold as Cavolo Nero, is especially popular for its dark, crinkled leaves and excellent flavour once the weather cools slightly.

    Kale is another plant belonging to the Brassicaceae family.

    June is an excellent time to sow kale directly outdoors as it often produces sturdier plants with less fuss than earlier indoor sowings. A June sowing can also help avoid some of the early spring pests.

    When harvesting, pick the outside lower leaves first; it will encourage the plant to keep producing for months.

    Growing Conditions

    • Sow directly into prepared soil or raised beds
    • Ideal temperature: 10–24°C (50–75°F)
    • Sow seeds around ½ inch deep (1–1.5 cm)
    • Thin seedlings to around 18 inches apart (45 cm) once established
    • Prefers fertile soil with good moisture retention

    Germination & Harvest

    • Germinates in roughly 5–10 days
    • Baby leaves can be harvested in around 30 days
    • Mature leaves are usually ready in 8–12 weeks

    Containers?

    Yes, kale grows surprisingly well in large tubs or deep containers, particularly the compact varieties. Choose containers at least 12 inches deep (30 cm) and keep plants well watered during dry spells.

    SWEDE (RUTABAGA)

    Swede is one of those vegetables that quietly rewards patient gardeners. Sow direct in June, and it will have plenty of time to develop, ready for harvest through the winter months. Swede benefits from maturing slowly and is well-suited to the UK and generally more temporated growing conditions.

    Swede, along with Turnips (see above) are a part of the Brassicaceae family, commonly known as cruciferous vegetables. They include broccoli, sprouts, kale and cauliflower, etc.

    Young swede seedlings can attract flea beetles and cabbage root fly, so covering newly sown rows with fine mesh or fleece can help plants establish more successfully. Cooler autumn weather also tends to improve the flavour, making roots sweeter and less woody.

    Growing Conditions:

    • Best sown directly outdoors where it is to grow
    • Ideal temperature: 8–20°C (46–68°F)
    • Sow seeds around ½ inch deep (1–1.5 cm)
    • Space rows around 18 inches apart (45 cm)
    • Thin seedlings to roughly 8 inches apart (20 cm)

    Swedes prefer fertile, moisture-retentive soil and grow best when watered consistently during dry periods.

    Germination & Harvest:

    • Germinates in around 7–14 days
    • Harvest from roughly 12–16 weeks after sowing
    • Can often remain in the ground well into winter in milder areas

    Containers?

    Possible, but not ideal unless using a very deep container. If growing in tubs, choose one at least 16 inches deep (40 cm) to allow good root development.

    OTHER VEGETABLES YOU CAN STILL SOW IN JUNE

    If you still have room, June is also a good time to sow:

    • French beans
    • Runner beans
    • Carrots
    • Courgettes (zucchini)
    • Peas
    • Radishes
    • Pak choi
    • Florence fennel

    Many herbs can also be sown in June, such as basil, coriander (cilantro), dill, and parsley. If you haven’t started sowing herbs yet, there is still time – sow a few seeds every 1-2 weeks through June for a good continuous supply.

    Final Thoughts

    June gardening often feels calmer than the frenetic rush of early spring. So if you haven’t started yet, or if earlier sowings didn’t go to plan, there is still plenty of time to grow productive, delicious food this season.

    Start with a few things you genuinely enjoy eating, keep watering simple and consistent during dry spells, and don’t overcomplicate it. A handful of well-cared-for plants will almost always bring more satisfaction than trays and trays of seedlings that become overwhelming.

    Remember – if you’re feeling behind, don’t panic. Garden centres are full of healthy plug plants and young vegetable plants at this time of year, and many crops catch up remarkably quickly once planted into warm soil. Don’t let anyone tell you that if you don’t grow from seed, you are not a proper gardener. Gardening is about enjoyment, and what fits with your lifestyle. So you do you!

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful, please consider subscribing to the Solitaire Gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    For more content, see below:

    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening and greater self-sufficiency, please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching – Mindset and Motivation. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or are struggling with motivation, then coaching may be for you. I can help you reach your gardening goals, keeping you motivated and helping you plan your self-sufficiency dream your way!

  • Unlock Healthy Growth with Deep Watering Techniques

    A woman in overalls watering plants in a lush garden, with a wooden fence and blue sky in the background.

    Watering is one of those gardening skills that feels deceptively simple, yet it’s where many new veg growers lose confidence. Few things make gardeners second-guess themselves, like watering. Too much, too little, too late – it can feel like guesswork until you learn what your plants are really asking for. The truth is, there isn’t a single perfect schedule – but there is a clear goal.

    When we water, we’re not just keeping plants alive; we’re encouraging a strong, resilient root system that can support healthy growth. Get that right, and everything else becomes so much easier.

    A helpful way to think about watering is in terms of depth rather than frequency. Gardeners often debate between “little and often” versus less frequent, deeper/longer watering. ‘Deep watering’ means you saturate the soil to a depth of about 6 ins (7 cms). So you water less often, but concentrate on the slow, deep water penitration.

    My best advice is to go for deep watering, and in this blog, I’ll tell you why I think this method is best.

    Having said that, do I sometimes give my veg patch a quick surface water? Yes, of course I do, especially when I’m really busy, or I can’t be bothered to drag the hose across the garden. Life gets in the way for everyone! But for the most part, I try to stick to a deep watering plan because I know my veg patch will appreciate the effort.

    In most cases, especially for vegetables growing in the ground, a deep watering once or twice a week is far more beneficial than light daily watering. This approach encourages roots to grow down into the soil, where moisture is more stable. Granted it takes longer, but it will produce a better harvest in the long run.

    Deep watering

    • Encourages deeper roots – Deep watering encourages roots to grow further down into the soil where moisture stays more stable, helping plants become stronger and better anchored.
    • Improves drought resilience – Plants with deeper root systems are better able to cope during hot weather or dry spells because they can access water below the dry surface soil.
    • Reduces evaporation – Watering thoroughly allows moisture to soak deeper into the ground instead of sitting on the surface, where it can quickly evaporate in the sun or wind.
    • Creates steadier growth – Consistent moisture lower in the soil helps plants grow more evenly, reducing stress that can lead to wilting, split fruits, bolting, or poor harvests.

    Shallow watering, by contrast, keeps roots near the surface, making plants more vulnerable to drying out.

    If you want a more visual explanation of deep watering, MIGardener has a very informative video on his YouTube channel, Deep Watering – How to do it & Why it Matters to Your Garden

    That said, there are moments in a plant’s life when watering needs to be more attentive. When you first sow seeds or plant out seedlings or plug plants, water plays a crucial role in helping them settle in. A newly planted seedling should be watered in well, which means giving it a generous soak so the soil settles around the roots and removes air pockets. This “anchoring” helps roots establish quickly. From there, you can ease into a more measured watering rhythm, allowing the soil surface to dry slightly between waterings while ensuring moisture remains below.

    As plants grow, their water needs change. Leafy crops like lettuce will need fairly consistent moisture to prevent bolting, while deeper-rooted plants like cabbage or sprouts can go longer between waterings. Once plants begin to produce fruit, such as tomatoes, courgettes, and beans, water becomes even more important. At this stage, inconsistent watering can lead to problems like split fruits or blossom end rot in tomatoes. Regular, deep watering helps maintain steady growth and better-quality harvests.

    It’s also worth adjusting your approach during dry spells or hotter summer weather. If you’ve had a week or more without meaningful rain, your plants will almost certainly need extra support, even if they look fine on the surface. Soil can dry out quickly in warm conditions, especially in containers and raised beds. During these periods, you may need to water more frequently, but still aim to water deeply rather than just wetting the surface. A good soak every few days is far more effective than a quick daily sprinkle.

    A couple of simple habits will make a big difference:

    • Water at the base of the plant, if possible, not over the leaves
    • Water early in the morning or later in the evening to reduce evaporation
    • Check soil moisture before watering, rather than sticking to a rigid schedule

    (Keep an eye on your slug population if watering during the evening. They love dark, damp conditions. If you notice a significant increase, try changing to a morning watering routine if at all possible).

    Watering at the base can feel counterintuitive – after all, plants get rained on from above. But rain is usually gentle and spread out, while a watering can or hose delivers water much more directly. Wet leaves, especially in warm or still conditions, can encourage disease. By watering the soil instead, you’re delivering moisture exactly where it’s needed: the roots. It’s simply a more efficient and safer way to water most vegetable crops.

    If you are new to growing veg don’t get too caught up in trying to water everything at the root – although it’s what I would recommend. Depending on your plant spacing and growing conditions, it’s not always possible to get the hose or the watering can that close to the soil. So, as close to the root of the plant as you can is fine – if you’re half a foot above the ground, the plant will still be fine. Most veg plants, once established, are quite robust, so don’t fret if you can get your hose or watering can that near to the plant root. It’s the amount of water you’re giving the plant that’s key here.

    Perspective – If I am using a hose, I water each plant or a very small section of plants while counting slowly to 20 or 30. To water all my outside raised beds takes around 1 1/2 hours. This sounds like a lot, but I’m only watering around once a week or possibly twice when the weather is very hot.

    To build your confidence, it helps to learn the signs your plants give you. Many vegetables will show early indicators if they need more water:

    • Leaves starting to curl or droop
    • A dull or slightly grey-green leaf colour
    • Soil pulling away from the edges of containers
    • Dry soil when you check below the surface
    • Crispy edges to leaves

    One of the simplest and most reliable methods of checking if your plants need more water is the finger test. Push your finger about 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) into the soil. If it feels dry at that depth, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp, you can wait another couple of days. This removes guesswork and helps you respond to your garden’s actual conditions.

    You’ll often see more advanced setups like drip irrigation or soaker hoses. While these can be very effective (and widely used by market gardeners), they’re not essential for most home gardens or allotments. A simple watering can or hose will do the job perfectly well. What matters far more is consistency and observation, not the equipment you use.

    It’s also worth thinking ahead in terms of water use. With increasingly dry summers and the increasingly common summer hosepipe bans in the UK, even a small amount of water storage can make a difference. A water butt connected to a shed, outside wall or greenhouse is ideal, but even a few containers to catch rainwater can help keep your garden going during dry spells. If you’re growing your own food, a little self-reliance with water goes a long way.

    Finally, a practical tip that’s often overlooked – think about where you plant. If you can, position your most water-hungry crops closer to your water source. The easier it is to water, the more likely you are to stay consistent, especially during busy periods or hot weather. Lugging heavy watering cans across the garden quickly becomes a chore, and anything that removes that friction will help you care for your plants more effectively.

    Conclusion

    Ultimately, watering is less about strict rules and more about observation and consistency. Aiming to water deeply encourages strong roots and responds to what your plants are telling you. With a little practice, observation and patience, it becomes second nature and one of the most satisfying parts of caring for your garden.

    I find watering strangely meditative. Admittedly, there are days when it feels more like a chore than a pleasure, but once I get started, it gives me the chance to slow down, observe my plants more closely, and really appreciate the process of watching them grow. It’s a bit like doing exercise – I never want to do it, but I know that once I’ve started, I’ll enjoy it and I know it’s good for me 😊

    Let me know in the comments what your watering routine is, or if you struggle to keep to a routine.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful, please consider subscribing to the Solitaire Gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. I’ll also email you a copy of my free Organic Pest Control Guide.

    Follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    See below for more content.

    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening and greater self-sufficiency, please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching – Mindset and Motivation. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or struggling with motivation, then coaching may be for you. Garden mindset coaching is not telling you what to grow and when to grow it. It’s about you, your approach, your resilience and your motivation to achieve your gardening and self-sufficiency goals.

  • Five Vegetables to Sow in May for New Gardeners

    A vibrant vegetable garden with raised beds filled with various plants, surrounded by colorful flowers, under a sunny sky with a few birds flying.

    May might be one of the most exciting months in the gardening calendar. The soil is warming up, the risk of frost is fading, and there’s a wide range of crops you can sow directly outdoors or start undercover. For new gardeners, it’s the perfect time to build momentum and fill your growing space with reliable, productive vegetables. Below are five excellent crops to sow in May, along with everything you need to know to grow them successfully.

    My advice, as always, is to start slowly – If you are anything like me, you want to plant everything, but trust me when I say, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. So start small, build your skills and enjoy your success.

    Carrotts

    Carrots are best sown directly into the ground, as they dislike being transplanted. You might try varieties such as ‘Early Nantes’, ‘Chatenay’ or ‘Autumn King’

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds outdoors in shallow drills/lines about ½ inch (1–1.5 cm) deep
    • Space rows 12 inches (30 cm) apart
    • Ideal soil temperature: 10–18°C (50–65°F)

    Because carrot seeds are teeny tiny most people sow and then ‘thin out’. ‘Thinning out’ just means once the seedlings are about an inch or so high, you take some of them out, so those left have space to grow. I can never quite bring myself to ditch the crowded seedlings. So I take the time to space each seed about 2-3 inches apart. It’s a faff, but I think it’s worth it.

    Conditions:

    • Light, stone-free soil is essential for straight roots
    • Keep soil consistently moist during germination (10–21 days)

    Care:

    • Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding if needed
    • Water regularly to prevent roots from becoming tough
    • Keep as weed-free as possible

    Containers/raised beds:

    • They grow well in deep containers (at least 12 inches / 30 cm)
    • Easily grown in raised beds

    Pests:

    • Carrot root fly

    Protection tips:

    • Cover crops with fine mesh or fleece to block egg-laying flies
    • Avoid thinning seedlings on windy days (this releases scents which carrot root fly adore)
    • Grow in raised beds or containers where the risk of root fly is lower

    Harvest:

    • Ready in 8–12 weeks, depending on variety (longer varieties may take a little more time to mature)
    • Harvest when roots reach usable size

    French Beans (Dwarf or Climbing)

    French beans are fast-growing and perfect for May sowing, but wait until the risk of frost has passed. These can be sown direct or under cover to get them started, then planted out to their final position.

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds 1 inch deep (2.5 cm)
    • Space 6 inches apart (15 cm) for dwarf varieties
    • Ideal temperature: 15–25°C (59–77°F)

    Conditions:

    • Warm, sunny position
    • Well-drained soil

    Indoor option:

    • Can be started indoors in pots and planted out after 3–4 weeks
    • Sow one or two seeds at the most into a small pot
    • Start on a sunny windowsill, in a greenhouse, or in a raised bed with a glass cover. A raised bed with a clear plastic hoop cover will be fine as long as there is some airflow

    Care:

    • Water regularly, especially during flowering
    • Provide support for climbing varieties
    • Put the supports in when you plant to avoid damaging the roots when the plant is established

    Containers/raised beds:

    • Dwarf beans grow well in containers
    • Climbing beans suit raised beds with supports

    Pests:

    • Slugs (young plants)
    • Aphids

    Protection tips:

    • Use slug barriers or wildlife-friendly pellets when plants are young
    • Check plants regularly and remove aphids by hand or with a water spray
    • Encourage beneficial insects like ladybirds

    I’d love to say I have solved the problem of slugs in my garden – but they are seanky little blighters. My best advice is to protect the plant as much as possible. I tend to start most beans in the greenhouse and plant out when they are a good size. When plants are a little larger, they’re less vulnerable and more robust. I also protect them with a closh – nothing fancy, just a 5lt clear plastic water bottle cut in half with some holes for airflow. The RHS website has some helpful tips and tricks for slugs, which you can read here RHS slug advice

    Harvest:

    • Pick regularly when pods are young and tender to encourage more production

    Salad Lettuce

    Lettuce is ideal for succession sowing, giving continuous harvests through summer. Sow a few seeds every couple of weeks for a good supply. Lettuce comes in four main categories: crisphead, butterhead, romaine, and loose leaf. Each has its own distinctive flavour. My favourite is a loose leaf and romaine: loose leaf is versatile in salads and sarnies, while the slight bitterness of the romaine varieties gives an interesting twist.

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds thinly at ¼ inch deep (0.5 cm)
    • Space rows 12 inches (30 cm) apart
    • Ideal temperature: 10–20°C (50–68°F)

    Conditions:

    • Prefers cooler conditions and partial shade in warmer weather
    • In hot weather, lettuce tends to bolt – once the plant has bolted, the leaves can become slightly bitter

    Indoor option:

    • Can be started in trays or modules and transplanted
    • A sunny windowsill will be fine – make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely

    Potting on:

    • Transplant when seedlings are large enough to handle
    • Keep young plants protected by covering them with a cloche, or by using a simple pot barrier. This can be made by cutting the bottom off a large plastic plant pot and placing it over the seedling once it’s planted in the ground. This helps shield the plant from pests like slugs while it gets established. For even extra protection, pop some copper tape around the pot.

    Don’t be too hasty to get your lettuce in the ground. Again, a strong, slightly larger plant will fare better than a tender, young seedling.

    Care:

    • Keep soil consistently moist
    • Avoid letting plants dry out, as this can trigger bolting

    Containers/raised beds:

    • Perfect for pots, window boxes, and raised beds

    Pests:

    • Slugs and snails
    • Aphids

    Protection tips:

    • Use copper tape, barriers, or evening checks for slugs and snails
    • Grow in raised containers to reduce slug damage
    • Spray aphids off with water or use a mild soapy solution

    Rehoming slugs and snails at dusk is probably one of the most effective ways to control the slug and snail population. It’s messy and a bit gross, but it’s worth the effort.

    Harvest:

    • Pick outer leaves as needed or harvest whole heads

    Courgettes (Zucchini)

    Courgettes are productive and perfect for sowing in May. My last blog was focused on courgettes – but they are worth mentioning again because they are such prolific producers. Just two or three plants will see you through the summer months. If you want a deeper dive into growing courgettes/zucchini, see here How to Grow Courgettes: A Simple Step-by-Step

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds 1 inch deep (2.5 cm)
    • Space plants 36 inches apart (90 cm / 3 feet)
    • Ideal temperature: 18–24°C (65–75°F)

    Indoor option:

    • Start indoors earlier, or sow outdoors in May

    Conditions:

    • Warm, sunny position
    • Rich, fertile soil – use plenty of compost and mulch around the base, especially if you’re growing vertically

    Care:

    • Water deeply and regularly
    • Feed weekly once flowering begins – use a comfrey or nettle tea

    Containers/raised beds:

    Pests:

    • Slugs (young plants)
    • Aphids

    Protection tips:

    • Protect young plants with cloches or fleece early on
    • Use slug barriers until plants are established
    • Rinse off aphids or pinch out heavily affected tips

    Harvest:

    • Pick when fruits are 6–8 inches long (15–20 cm)
    • Harvest frequently to encourage more fruit

    Beetroot

    Beetroot is easy to grow and ideal for sowing directly outdoors, but equally happy when started under cover. I prefer the non-red varieties, such as chioggia or Golden Burpees.

    How to sow:

    • Sow seeds 1 inch deep (2.5 cm)
    • Space rows 12 inches (30 cm) apart
    • Ideal temperature: 10–20°C (50–68°F)
    • Beet seeds are easy to handle, so pop one or two seeds per module if starting indoors.

    If starting seeds outside, you can plant two or even three seeds quite close together; as the roots develop, they will push each other apart. This sometimes results in slightly smaller beets, but they are fabulous for roasting and pickling.

    You can do the same with the beet seeds you start in modules or pots. When you plant them out, you can pop them in the ground together or gently tease them apart to plant separately if you wish.

    Conditions:

    • Well-drained soil in a sunny or lightly shaded spot

    Care:

    • Water regularly for even root development
    • Keep weed-free

    Containers/raised beds:

    • Suitable for containers at least 10 inches (25 cm) deep

    Pests:

    • Leaf miners – Leaf miners are small insect larvae that live inside leaves, creating pale, winding tunnels as they feed between the layers of the leaf (don’t panic!)
    • Slugs

    Protection tips:

    • Leaf miner – Remove affected leaves quickly to prevent the spread of leaf miners. Wash the leaves with soapy water every couple of days until the problem resolves. I find it easier to apply this soapy water solution with a spray bottle.
    • Use netting if infestations are persistent
    • Protect young plants from slugs with barriers or regular checks

    Harvest:

    • Harvest when roots reach golf ball to tennis ball size
    • Leaves can also be eaten when young, much like spinach.

    Final Thoughts

    May is a generous month for sowing, offering warm soil and long daylight hours that help seeds germinate quickly and plants establish strongly. Whether you’re sowing directly into the ground, starting seeds in trays, or growing in containers, the key to success is consistent watering, good spacing, and keeping a close eye on young plants as they establish.

    For new gardeners in the UK and other temperate climates, these five vegetables offer a reliable and high-yielding place to start. With just a little care and attention, you’ll be well on your way to a heap of healthy veg you can use throughout the summer months or preserve for later.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful, please consider subscribing to the Solitaire Gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening and greater self-sufficiency, please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching – Mindset and Motivation. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or are struggling with motivation, then coaching may be for you. I can help you reach your gardening goals, keeping you motivated and helping you plan your self-sufficiency dream your way!

  • What to Sow in March

    A vibrant cartoon scene of a farm with a scarecrow standing in a field of young plants, surrounded by greenery and a clear sky.

    We are now officially in meteorological spring in the UK and finally the seed packets that have been burning a hole in your seed box are ready to be unleashed.

    It’s an amazing time of year – the daffodils are in full bloom, the days are getting longer and there is a real feeling of hope and anticipation in the air.

    The tendency is to frenetically start sowing seeds left, right and sideways. However, my advice here is to practice a degree of restraint – yes we want to get planting, but we don’t want to get overwhelmed or swamped with seeds we can’t nurture properly.

    In this blog we will look at a number of seeds you could start in March, and talk a little about soil prep ready for your young plants. I will link to earlier blogs for more planting information if you need it and will do a deeper dive into more plants over the coming weeks.

    What you can sow indoors

    * Plant by end of March beginning of April

    The above list covers some of the basics but is by no means exhaustive. My best advice here is to ensure you always read the seed packet to check the best time to sow your seeds.

    In terms of sowing seeds indoors, in a greenhouse or in a polytunnel we still need to be a bit careful with regard to temperatures. The days are certainly getting warmer, but the nights are still chilly and the weather particularly in the U.K. can change quite considerably come late March. Snow at Easter time is not unheard of, so use cloches and propagators for extra protection. In fact even indoors at this time of year I would use a clear plastic cover over seed trays and pots.

    The process of planting is fairly simple: Fill a seed try or seed modules with seed or potting compost. I generally make sure the seed compost is moist prior to sowing as I’m always a bit concerned that I will dislodge the seeds with my watering can – I can be a bit heavy handed even with my tiny seed watering can 😊

    Once your soil is dampened pop your seed on the surface and cover with a light smattering of soil and press down lightly. You firm them in lightly to make sure the seed has good contact with the soil. The general rule is don’t cover your seeds with soil more 2 or 3 times the width of the seed. You want them deep enough to be moist and dark – but not so deep that they run out of energy trying to break the soil surface. This is not an exact science, but generally if the seeds are small don’t bury them too deep. Remember to label your seeds! – trust me you will forget no matter how much you convince yourself you will remember what you’ve planted Labelling: simple but vital

    Your seed packet will tell you roughly how long your seeds will take to germinate. Once your seeds are around 2 to 3 inches tall you can repot them into a slightly bigger pot until you, and the weather, are ready to pop them into their final growing spot.

    If you are on a budget you might find this blog useful, it’s all about what alternatives you can use for seed trays, cloches or propagators Starting Seeds on a Budget: Simple Tips for Beginners

    If you are looking for a recommendation for seed modules, I use Charles Dowding’s version – they are a bit more expensive but I’ve had mine for 5 years now and they are as good as the day I bought them Charles Dowding seed containers

    Sow direct outdoors

    • Parsnips
    • Potatoes
    • Chard
    • Carrots
    • asparagus crowns
    • Spinach
    • Peas
    • Broad beans
    • Onion & Shallot (Sets not seeds)
    • Jerusalem artichokes

    Planting outside (planting direct) can be a bit hit and miss this time of year, but it’s still worth giving it a go. For example if you missed an autumn planting you get another opportunity to plant garlic – the bulbs may not be quite as large with a spring planting, but they will still be perfectly serviceable.

    If you are planting seeds direct it’s worth keeping an eye on the weather and consider using some horticultural fleece at night or if temperatures dip during the day. In fact whenever I plant outside at this time of year I still cover each seed with a closh. This is no more than the top of a 5 litre water bottle with holes in for airflow and pinned down with a garden U peg or tent peg.

    A clear plastic bottle placed upside down in soil, with green grass and a wire fence in the background.

    Makeshift closh to protect young plants.

    Soil Preparation.

    Soil preparation is important and worth spending some time on as it will give your young plants a stable start and allow them to put down firm roots.

    Make sure your planting area is clear of weeds and debris if you are planting in the ground you might want to give it a little rake just to break up any clumps. Add organic matter such as manure or compost – pop your young plant in the soil and cover the surface with a mulch (a good couple of inches or about 5 – 8 cm’s) to help retain water. For mulch you could use leaves, more compost, bark (fine broken down bark is always good) straw, or grass clippings.

    I wouldn’t get too hung up with the thickness of your mulch – if you don’t have enough to put 5 – 8 cm’s worth, don’t worry. Even a small layer is better than nothing at all.

    Obviously if you are planting seeds direct then don’t mulch until your plant is about 4 or 5 inches – 10 to 12 cm’s. Otherwise you will bury your seed too deep.

    Try not to mulch up the stem of your lovely young plant. Too much mulch around the stem can create excessive moisture and leave your plant venerable to rot and disease. I will often pop my plants into the soil, then mulch the whole bed. After that, I go round and move the mulch away from each plant creating a little mulch free circle around each plant.

    I garden in mostly raised beds as I find this easier, and it certainly means I have less weeding to do. The same principle as above applies when prepping your raised beds. However, raised beds generally hold water better than planting in the ground so you may not need quite so much mulch.

    Final Thoughts

    My best advice as the season gets going is not to panic. March, April and May are really busy times for veg growers, particularly if you are gardening on your own Tips for Successful Solo Vegetable Gardening . But you have time, we are still only in early spring, so plan out your seed sowing routine over the coming weeks and months. Gardening is a bit like the rest of life – little and often is often the answer. Sowing 5 tomato seeds this week and another 5 in two weeks time will mean you are not repotting dozens of plants at the same time and ensure you have a succession sowings.

    Over the next few weeks I will do a deep dive into some of the plants I have mentioned in this blog. Hopefully this will give you a more in-depth information – planting depths, best growing conditions, what pests to look out for etc. So keep an eye on these pages or subscribe to the site so you get upcoming blogs direct to your inbox.

    Let me know in the comments what fruit or veg you would like me to focus on over the coming weeks – and don’t forget to follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest and Instagram.

    If you are interested in coaching or mentoring focused on gardening please visit my coaching pages here Garden Coaching. If your feeling overwhelmed by your garden projects or are struggling with motivation then coaching may be for you.

  • Tips for Successful Solo Vegetable Gardening

    A person gardening with a wheelbarrow in a lush garden, surrounded by blooming flowers and greenery, with a wooden fence and trees in the background.

    The solitaire gardeners philosophy

    My blog site is called solitaire gardener because mostly that’s what I am, a solo gardener. Yes I’ve had some help over the years but pretty much the food I produce is done on a solo basis.

    I’ve always craved a connection with nature and have generally had what I believe is a healthy scepticism for our commercial food system. While fresh strawberries in December may be amazing – I think we lack an appreciation for our food when it’s available from the supermarket all year round.

    I love the idea of locally grown and seasonally available produce, and what can be more local than your own veg patch.

    My issue has always been the fact that those around me don’t share my vision quite so passionately 😊

    Hence growing veg mostly on my own.

    The pivot here though, is that I don’t see solo gardening as a disadvantage – it’s actually liberating, enjoyable and fulfilling.

    Here are some of the reasons why:

    • You’re the boss
    • You dictate what you grow
    • You dictate how much you grow
    • Progress happens at your own pace
    • You are in control
    • You don’t need to impress anyone
    • You learn under your own steam

    I know gardening solo may seem overwhelming, but keep those bullet points in mind as they will help guide you through the next few frantic gardening months.

    Take control

    Now is the time to start taking control by deciding what you are going to grow.

    We all know that late winter feeling of wanting to grow everything, everywhere, all at once. But now is your chance to really forge your own path and ensure you are not overwhelmed.

    What to consider

    I’ve written a couple of blogs that may help you decide what seeds to sow in late winter – but the lists given are by no means exhaustive. I’ll give you a quick overview in the next section, but you can also read more here What Seeds To Start In February and here Herb Seeds to Sow Indoors in Late Winter

    The important thing here for the solo gardener is to not let your seed staring in particular get out of hand.

    So below are some tips to help shape the growing season ahead.

    • Focus on what you know you will eat
    • Focus on filling the space you have not, the space you would like to have
    • Think carefully about more vertical growing if space is limited
    • Think carefully about how you are going to store your produce. Unless of course you intend to share with family and friends. In which case trust me after the 20th courgette (zucchini) they may not be so keen to accept your bountiful gifts.
    • Consider the time you have available and be realistic

    Seed staring ideas

    As I suggested in the previous section I’ve written a couple of blogs around what you might sow this time of year indoors in the UK.

    But as promised here is a round up of all those mentioned and a couple more you might want to consider, again this is not an exhaustive list and is tailored to more temperate growing zones.

    • Aubergines    
    • Tomatoes
    • Cabbage
    • Radish
    • Peppers
    • Carrots
    • Onion
    • Leeks
    • Beets
    • Chilli
    • Peas
    • Broad beans
    • winter Lettuce
    • Basil
    • Sage
    • Thyme
    • Rosemary
    • Spinach

    You can also start celery (start indoors), and parsnips direct if you ground isn’t too waterlogged.

    It’s so tempting to want to grow everything, but my suggestion when you’re first starting out or gardening solo is to pick 5 different seeds to start indoors now. Sow them, nurture them, prepare the space outside where they will grow and mature. When each batch of seeds is established and about an inch (2.5 c.ms) – only then sow succession batches. This ensures that you:

    • Are dealing with small enough batches to handle.
    • Can concentrate your efforts
    • Have succession plants ready in case your plants fail when planted out

    Obviously you do you, and garden in your own way – but this is about trying not get overwhelmed and keeping you solo veg growing journey manageable.

    You decide how you garden – Minimal setup, minimal stress

    My top tip for basic decision whether it’s a garden, allotment or your own land is to keep it as simple at first. Life is complicated enough without making growing your own food stressful, especially when gardening on your own.

    This is about removing anything that intimidates or is unnecessarily complicated. You don’t need the perfect set up – you need a workable one.

    For your outside planting space you will need to consider some of the following:

    • Planting direct into the soil – garden beds
    • raised beds
    • a mixture of raised beds and garden beds
    • a compost bin or pile
    • watering -water butts, hoses and watering cans

    Once you’ve considered these basics, work with it for a while and amend as needed. Remember that daily attention and observation can be worth more than a tonne of fancy gardening gadgets.

    While gadgets can be fun and there’s no denying they can sometimes make life a little easier – they are not the be all and end all. You can garden perfectly adequacy without them.

    The idea with a any garden is to sort your basics, and get into a rhythm that fits with your lifestyle. If you work full time and only have evenings to tend your garden, then be realistic about the amount of plants you can look after. This is not defeatism, it’s realism and will stop you getting overwhelmed.

    So many times I have gotten ahead of myself – thinking it’s fine I’ll make time. When that time doesn’t materialise I’ve gotten frustrated and despondent about my progress. Far better to scale it back a bit, celebrate and enjoy your successes.

    Building gardening momentum

    As a newer gardener you need to build a rhythm and momentum. The daily gardening habits you build can often be more important than the actual technique.

    This is how I would recommend you begin that journey :

    • Start small
      • wins build energy, over committing drains it.
    • Grow what you eat and what you enjoy
      • your motivation lives in the relevance of the food you decide to grow
    • Expect imperfection
      • don’t compare yourself with perfect social media channel were all the veg looks perfect and the person delivering the message looks amazing – that’s not the reality, it’s curated for views
    • Check your plants daily
      • This will not only teach you how each plant develops, but will also allow you to deal with any problems early doors. Gardening is no different to live – the sooner you deal with a problem the better the outcome
    • Sow in small batches
      • As I mentioned earlier – this will help you plan and stay in control

    And finally ……

    Gardening on your own can be an absolute joy – you have the freedom to do things your own way. Find your own groove, and remember small harvesters are meaningful, you are free to learn in your own way, and small regular tasks build momentum.

    Take your time, be kind to yourself, and you will grow food that is nourishes both your body and soul.

    Let me know in the comments your top tips for solo gardening – what helps and what hinders? I’d love to hear your thoughts.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    For more posts see below…….

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  • Starting Seeds on a Budget: Simple Tips for Beginners

    Starting Seeds on a Budget: Simple Tips for Beginners

    A windowsill garden with young plants growing in a tray, alongside a small succulent pot, and a snowy landscape visible outside.

    If you’ve spent any time looking up how to start seeds, you could be forgiven for thinking you need a heated propagator, grow lights, specialist compost, and a dedicated space to do it properly. For beginners especially, that kind of advice can feel overwhelming and not to mention very expensive

    Thankfully the truth is much more sustainable and cheaper.

    Plants have been grown for millennia without fancy equipment. You don’t need to buy anything new to get started, and you don’t need perfect conditions.

    What you do need is an understanding of what seeds actually require, and a willingness to work with what you already have.

    When I first stated gardening I made do with whatever I could recycle or reuse. In fact most of the time I still do. I’ve been gardening for many years now, so do now have a few fancy bits and bobs. But please don’t let anyone tell you that you need expensive equipment to get started.

    If you can afford it – that’s great, but it’s not going to make you a better gardener or mean that your seeds are any more likely to germinate. Seeds still fail under grow lights and die in posh terracotta pots. So garden in your own way, with whatever you can lay your hands on.

    Below we are going to look at what seeds actually need, along with some suggestions of everyday items you can use to start your veg growing journey.

    What Seeds Actually Need (and What They Don’t)

    Before we talk about containers or compost, it helps to strip things back to basics.

    Seeds need:

    • Moisture – damp compost, not soaking wet remember they are seeds not ducks 🦆
    • Warmth – enough to trigger germination, but not excessive heat, your seed packet will tell you the ideal germination temp
    • Light – once your seeds have germinated
    • Time – Some seeds will show in a matter of days and some can take about a month. Patience my dear friend.

    Seeds don’t necessarily need:

    • Heated propagators
    • Grow lights (in most cases – the exception would be if you want to germinate something very early or your daylight levels are very low)
    • Brand-new trays or pots

    If you focus on meeting the basic needs, the rest will come in time.

    Starting Seeds on a Windowsill

    A simple windowsill works surprisingly well for many seeds.

    In the UK, a south or west facing window is usually best. Early in the year January/February, light levels are still low, so the brightest, sunniest spot you have matters more than anything else.

    A few practical tips:

    • Rotate pots or trays every couple of days to stop seedlings leaning toward the light
    • Watch night-time temperatures. When the heating goes off in the house the temperature can drop quite quickly
    • Move seedlings away from the window overnight if frost is forecast
    • Cover the seedlings with a closh at night – we will look at how to make a closh later

    A light bright windowsill won’t suit every crop, but for many late February early March sowings it’s more than adequate.

    Reused Containers Work Perfectly Well

    You don’t need seed trays or modules. You need something that holds compost and allows water to drain away. It is literally that simple.

    Some reliable options – all the options below will need drainage holes poked in the bottom base of the container:

    • Yoghurt pots
    • Mushroom trays
    • Plastic food containers
    • Takeaway tubs
    • Cut down clear water bottles
    • Egg carton/box
    • Empty toilet rolls

    Drainage is far more important than the container itself. If water can’t escape, compost becomes waterlogged and seeds rot.

    I’ve grown healthy seedlings in all sorts of reused containers, and they do just fine.

    DIY Mini Greenhouses (No Kit Required)

    Creating a slightly warmer, more humid environment can help seeds germinate -and this is where everyday items really shine.

    Cut Plastic Bottles

    Clear plastic drinks bottles with the bottoms cut off make excellent mini cloches. It’s also an excellent way of recycling used water bottles.

    • Place them over pots or trays indoors or outside
    • Remove the lid during the day for ventilation
    An image showing plastic bottle components labeled as 'bottom', 'sides', and 'top' on a wooden surface.

    I use these constantly, especially early in the season and outside as the gardening season continues. They make brilliant closhes and can also protect young plants when they go outside.

    If you cut the bottle as in the photo above you get the top, and both sides to use as a cover or closh and the bottom section can then be used as a seed tray or mini closh

    Clear plastic storage boxes

    • Place pots or modules inside the storage container
    • Leave the lid slightly ajar – seeds must have airflow
    • Watch for condensation – too much means it’s time to ventilate
    Clear plastic storage container with a lid and side handles.

    Once seedlings emerge, remove the lid to prevent weak, leggy growth.

    You can also use a clear plastic bag in a similar way. Place your seed tray in a clear plastic bag with the end open for air flow

    Makeshift mini greenhouse

    Compost Choices (Keep It Simple)

    Seed compost is often recommended because it’s fine and generally low in nutrients, ideal for young roots. Believe it or not too many nutrients can actually damage seeds. In simple terms it overwhelms them – it’s a bit like giving a child too much sugar then having to peel the off the ceiling an hour later!

    I believe the US terms are seed-starting mix vs potting mix, but happy to be corrected by folk living in the US

    Nowadays I do buy quality peat free seed starting compost, but it can get pricy, so I tend to mix it with a quality general compost. The ideal of course would be to start making your own – but that’s a whole other blog topic.

    I guess what I’m saying here is don’t let the plethora of composts available stop you starting seeds at home. A general compost should be fine for most seeds.

    My recommendation here is if you are going to spend money on anything, then it would be compost. For seeds I use ‘Petersfield growing mediums – potting supreme’ It costs about £12:99 for a bag of 60 litres which I agree is quite pricy. However, it’s peat free, reliable and can be mixed with a cheaper compost at a ration of 60/40 (60 potting/40 general) to eek the contents out over time.

    For clarity I am not affiliated in any way with the Petersfield range of composts – It’s just a product I use, like and am happy to recommend.

    Finding the Right Temperature at Home

    Most seeds don’t need extreme heat.

    A typical indoor room temperature is enough for many vegetables sown in late winter and early spring. But if they need a bit of extra warmth a window sill above a radiator may be an option

    Avoid placing seeds:

    • Directly on top of radiators
    • Directly above heaters – seeds may overheat and the soil will dry out
    • Against very cold glass overnight

    Sometimes a shelf, table, or sideboard performs better than a windowsill early on. Observation beats rigid rules every time. In fact this is the case for most of the gardening rules – there are some that hold true, but there is huge variation in even from gardens that are next door to one another.

    Light: The Key to Strong Seedlings

    Once seeds germinate, light becomes the priority.

    If seedlings stretch, lean, or look pale, they generally need more light.

    Simple fixes:

    • Move them closer to the window
    • Remove covers when shoots appear
    • Turn pots regularly so each part of the plant gets equal amounts of light

    Some seeds can germinate in the dark such as onions or coriander (cilantro) – but the vast majority they need plenty of light. You can find more online about exactly which seeds need light and which don’t and I’ll try to cover this in later posts. Generally if the seed doesn’t need light to germinate it should say on the seed packet.

    Beginner worries are perfectly normal

    If this is your first year starting seeds, you may be worrying that you’re doing it wrong, especially if seeds are taking time to show.

    Some reassurance:

    • Small seedlings are normal
    • Uneven germination is normal
    • Some seeds take weeks, not days

    Gardening teaches us patience whether we want it to or not.

    What to Sow Now

    If you’re wondering which seeds are worth starting at this point in the year, you might find these these two previous blogs helpful

    Final Thoughts

    Starting seeds indoors isn’t about having the right equipment it’s about paying attention and leaning as you go. It’s about using what you have and not letting disappointments stop you growing and experimenting.

    Last but by no means least – if it all goes wrong don’t forget that garden centres and nursery’s sell pretty much everything. So if you seeds don’t behave – just pop out a buy a plug plants from the garden centre

    What are you using to start seeds this year, and what’s been the trickiest part so far?
    Share your setup in the comments, or let me know what gardening concerns you have and I’ll try to cover them in future posts.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    Other posts you may enjoy

  • Herb Seeds to Sow Indoors in Late Winter

    Herb Seeds to Sow Indoors in Late Winter

    A sunny outdoor scene featuring several potted plants on a round table. The plants include basil and a small shrub on the table, with rosemary and sage plants in orange pots beside them, set against a green background with soft clouds.

    Most people buy herbs as small potted plants from a garden centre, nursery or even a supermarket. However, with a little patience you can sow your own herb seeds indoors in late January or February for a fraction of the cost.

    Home grown herbs will make you wonder why you ever bought bunches of sad looking herbs wrapped in plastic from the supermarket. Growing herbs from seed at home will not only save you money, it will also result in less waste, and give you an abundance of garden aromatics you can preserve for longer term storage.

    The post below is written with newer gardeners in mind and focuses on herbs that are useful in everyday cooking, reliable to start indoors, and happy in a UK climate. We will look at basil, rosemary, thyme, and sage, covering how to sow, what conditions they need to germinate, and how to care for each plant through to maturity.

    We will refer to a propagator which is clear (plastic or glass) cover for seed trays or pots that trap warmth and humidity to help germination. You can also get heated versions which provide gentle bottom heat. Heated propagators are great, but don’t fret if you don’t have one. Popping your seed pot or module tray in a clear plastic bag (a food zip lock bag is fine) and keeping it on a sunny window sill should suffice. Many seeds like to soil warmer at this time of year, so bring your seed compost indoors a few days before planting. This will allow the compost to warm up a bit and result in happier seeds.

    You’ll also see references to succession sowing (sowing small batches at intervals so you always have fresh plants coming along) and transplanting (moving plants on into larger pots or outside once conditions are right). Both are simple, practical techniques that quickly become second nature.

    General Setup for late winter Sowing

    Before we dive into individual herbs, it’s worth getting the basics right.

    You will need:

    • Seed trays or small pots (2–3 in / 5–7.5 cm) deep
    • Multi‑purpose compost or seed compost
    • A warm sunny windowsill
    • Clear plastic bags or a clear lid (for humidity) or heated propogator

    Light & warmth: In January/February, light levels are low. A bright windowsill is ideal. Most herbs germinate best at approximately 10 –21°C. (60–70°F). The best advice for seed germination temperatures will be written on each seed packet.

    Watering: Keep compost damp, not wet. Overwatering is the quickest way to lose seedlings. Seeds can get mouldy if they are too wet.

    Humidity trick: For slow or fussy germinators, loosely place a clear plastic bag over the pot or seed tray to trap humidity. Remove it as soon as seedlings appear. This is a good idea for most seeds started indoors at this time of year such as chillies or aubergines (Eggplant). Unless of course you have a heated propagator.

    See here for seeds to sow in late January What Vegetable Seeds to Sow in Late January: A planting Guide for Beginners

    Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Genovese – classic Italian basil, excellent for pesto
    • Sweet Green – reliable and fast growing (high notes of mint & clove)
    • Greek (Bush) Basil – compact, ideal for windowsills (smaller leaves – strong flavour)

    How to sow

    • Sow seeds ¼ in (0.5 cm) deep
    • Space seeds about 1 in (2.5 cm) apart
    • Lightly cover and gently water

    Basil needs warmth to germinate, ideally 18–24°C. (65–75°F) A plastic bag or propagator lid is very helpful here.

    Germination

    • Time: 5–10 days
    • Remove plastic cover as soon as seedlings emerge

    Growth and repotting

    Basil grows quickly. Once seedlings have 2–3 true leaves, thin them out or pot on into 4–5 in (10–12.5 cm) pots. Basil dislikes having cramped roots.

    True leaves are the first set of leaves that appear after the initial seed leaves. The true leaves will look the same as the leaves on a mature plant. The seed leaves will show first and are generally smaller. If you are unsure check with the picture on your seed packet or do a quick internet search. You can also wait until you have more than 2 true leaves. It won’t be the end of the world if you don’t pot on until you have 3 or 4 leaves.

    If you have 3 or 4 true leaves before it’s time to plant outside then just transplant to a slightly larger pot until it’s time to plant out – around April/May or after your last frost date.

    Succession sowing

    Highly recommended. Sow a new batch every 3 – 4 weeks to ensure a constant supply.

    Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)

    Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean, where it grows in poor, well‑drained soils and plenty of sun. Understanding this makes its preferences much easier to meet indoors.

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Common Rosemary – hardy and reliable
    • Miss Jessopp’s Upright – neat growth, good for pots
    • Tuscan Blue – strong flavour, vigorous once mature

    How to sow

    • Sow seeds on the surface and lightly cover with compost
    • Use small pots rather than trays

    Rosemary prefers slightly cooler conditions than basil, around 15–18°C (60–65°F)

    Germination

    • Time: 14–28 days (sometimes longer, so be patient)
    • A plastic bag helps retain humidity, but sure there is some ventilation.

    Growth and repotting

    Rosemary grows slowly. Seedlings can stay in their original pots for several months. Repot only when roots clearly fill the pot.

    Ongoing care

    • Plenty of sunlight
    • Allow compost to dry slightly between watering. Rosemary doesn’t like soggy roots.
    • Avoid high humidity once established, so remove any plastic bag covers

    Succession sowing

    Germination can be uneven, so sowing a second pot as backup is sensible.

    Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

    Thyme also originates from the Mediterranean region, thriving in sunny, dry conditions. This heritage explains why it prefers good drainage and dislikes being overwatered.

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Common Thyme – versatile and hardy
    • Lemon Thyme – fresh citrus flavour
    • English Thyme – reliable for cooking

    How to sow

    • Sow on the surface
    • Press seeds gently into compost
    • Don’t bury the seed too deeply into the compost

    Germination

    • Time: 10–21 days
    • Best temperature: 15–21°C (60–70°F)
    • Plastic bag useful until germination, once the seeds show a few millimetres above the soil, change the plastic bag for a propagator lid.

    Remember if you don’t have a propagator lid you can cut the flat end from a clear plastic water bottle – poke holes in the remainder of the bottle, and remove the lid for airflow, then place that over your seedling pot.

    Clear plastic bottle placed upside down in soil, with a coiled hose attached, surrounded by a wire fence.

    Growth and repotting

    Thyme stays small and doesn’t mind being slightly root‑bound. Pot on only when growth slows noticeably.

    Ongoing care

    • Sunlight light is essential
    • Water sparingly
    • Trim lightly to encourage bushiness

    Succession sowing

    Resow if germination is patchy.

    Sage (Salvia officinalis)

    Sage is native to the Mediterranean and Balkan regions, where it grows as a hardy, shrubby perennial. It adapts well to UK and cooler climate well once established.

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Common Sage – classic culinary variety
    • Broad‑Leaved Sage – excellent flavour
    • Purple Sage – ornamental and edible

    How to sow

    • Sow seeds ¼ in (0.5 cm) deep
    • Space well, as seedlings grow steadily

    Germination

    • Time: 10–21 days
    • Temperature: 15–21°C (60–70°F)
    • Plastic bag helpful in early stages

    Growth and repotting

    Sage seedlings are sturdy. Pot on once roots fill the container. Avoid oversized pots early on as you risk over watering. Sage can be potted on a number of times into sequentially larger pots as the plant develops. Just be careful you don’t damage the roots when repotting – gently does it!

    Ongoing care

    • Plenty of light
    • Moderate watering
    • Good air circulation prevents mildew

    Succession sowing

    Optional. Sage is long‑lived, so one or two healthy plants are usually enough.

    When to Move Herbs Outdoors

    From late April to May, herbs can be hardened off and moved outside once frost risk has passed. Start by placing them outdoors for a few hours a day, gradually increasing exposure.

    When I first plant outside I make sure the new plant is protected form slugs, snails and other beasties until it becomes more established. I will generally use little closh or some netting.

    Final Thoughts

    Growing herbs indoors in January is about small steps and steady progress. Not every seed will germinate, and that’s normal. Succession sowing, patience, and observation are the to turning those tiny seeds into a fruitful herb bed that can be utilised in any kitchen or medicinal cabinet.

    Let me know in the comments what your favourite herbs are in the garden.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram

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    This post encourages beginners to grow herbs indoors from seed in late winter, focusing on basil, rosemary, thyme, and sage. It outlines sowing techniques, ideal conditions for germination, and ongoing care. Succession sowing is recommended for a continuous supply. Growing your own herbs saves money and reduces waste while enhancing culinary experiences.

  • Dehydrate Garlic This January: Save Flavour and Prevent Waste

    Why Garlic Softens Over Winter & Why January Is the Right Time to Act

    A food dehydrator filled with trays of sliced garlic in a kitchen setting, with whole garlic bulbs on the countertop.

    By mid to late January in the UK, stored garlic often starts to change. Even in cool sheds or cupboards, bulbs can slowly lose firmness as heating is ratcheted up & humidity fluctuates. While some of your garlic may no longer be ideal for long term storage through to summer, it is usually still perfectly good to eat. Acting now by dehydrating it preserves flavour, prevents waste, and gives you a reliable supply of garlic well into the year ahead.

    As a general rule I check my pantry stored garlic pretty much every week at this time of year. When I say check, I mean I actively ferret around in the mesh storage bag for bulbs or cloves that do not feel firm to the touch. If I only have a few bulbs I will pop them in the Rayburn (like an AGA and constantly on a low heat). If once prepped, I think I have enough to fill a few trays I will put them in the dehydrator.

    In this post we will look at the different way to approach dehydrating garlic for longer term storage. You don’t need to rush out and by a dehydrator this can also be done in an oven. A small dehydrator will set you back anywhere between £30 to £60, with a large fancy one setting you back significantly more! My best advice if you are in the market for a dehydrator is to start with a smaller, cheaper model, & honestly assess how often you use it before shelling out for a larger model. Dehydrators are useful pieces of kit, & may well save you money over a period of years given the price of gas in the UK. However, it’s not essential certainly if you are just starting your preserving journey.

    For more information on growing your own garlic this post might be helpful Overwintering Garlic: A New Growers Guide

    Preparing Garlic for Dehydration

    Start by breaking your garlic bulbs into cloves, discarding any that are mouldy or badly damaged (soft alone is fine). Peel the cloves and slice them thinly – about 2–3 mm (⅛ inch), the thinner the slice the quicker they will dry. Uniform slices are important because thicker pieces can trap moisture and spoil later.

    Once you have prepped your garlic you can dry it in a few ways. I will say at this point that in the UK at this time of year it’s clearly not going to be dried by the sun 😂

    Dehydrating Garlic: Multiple Methods That Work

    The dehydrator method: Peel and slice each clove into spread slices in a single layer and dry at 50 – 55°C (120–130°F) for 6–10 hours until brittle. Your dehydrator may have a handbook or instruction manual that will also offer specific information your particular machine.

    The oven method: Place the small slices on a baking sheet and use the lowest setting (often 60–70°C / 140–160°F), prop the door slightly open, and turn slices occasionally. Again spread out the slices so air can circulate allowing them to dry more evenly.

    The air-dry method: You can airdry garlic in a warm, well-ventilated room, though this takes several days and works best in dry, stable conditions. This is probably not the best method for most homes in the UK as there will undoubtedly be some humidity.

    In all cases the garlic is ready when it breaks easily and feels brittle. If you are in any doubt leave it a bit longer, any moisture will mean your final product will spoil more quickly.

    Turning Dried Garlic into Flakes or Powder

    Once fully dry and cooled, garlic slices can be stored as flakes or ground into powder. For flakes, lightly crush by hand or pulse briefly in a food processor. For powder, blend longer and sift out any larger pieces.

    Useful tip: grind only small batches if you want garlic powder, as garlic powder loses potency faster than whole flakes. Interestingly, dehydrated garlic often tastes stronger than fresh because the flavour compounds become more concentrated. Generally I find that a 1/4 teaspoon of garlic powder equates to about 2 cloves of garlic. However, you will need to play around with this and adjust for your taste. There’s probably more consistency i.e. 1/4 teaspoon to 1 clove when using shop bought garlic powder, but with homegrown and home dried there are too many variables to maintain that level of consistency.

    Safe Storage for Long-Term Use

    Store dried garlic flakes or powder in airtight jars, ideally glass, and kept in a cool, dark place as you would any other herb or spice. Add a food-safe silica gel sachet or a small amount of dry rice to help absorb any moisture that might build up. Properly dried and stored garlic can last 12 months or more when stored properly. Always check for clumping, off smells, or moisture as these will all be signs that you may need to re-dry or to start again. I don’t need to tell you not to ingest anything you are not 100% sure are safe to consume. Done right, dehydrating garlic turns a potential loss into one of the most useful pantry staples you can make.

    Final Thoughts

    January is a perfect checkpoint for stored garlic. What won’t comfortably last until your next harvest doesn’t need to be wasted. Whether you use flakes or powder, home-preserved garlic is often stronger, cleaner tasting, and far more satisfying than shop-bought alternatives.

    At a glance:
    • Soft garlic in winter is normal and still usable
    • Dehydrate before sprouting starts for best flavour
    • Dehydrators are most reliable but ovens are a good alternative
    • Flakes store longer than powder, but both are useful
    • Keep airtight, dry, and dark for up to a year or more

    A small job in January can save months of waste, and give you one of the most useful staples in your kitchen.

    If you have any tips for dehydrating your garlic please do share them in the comments.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

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