
As autumn deepens and we start thinking about putting the heating on, many gardeners put their tools away, assuming the growing season is over. But in the UK and other temperate Zone 9-ish climates, October can be an excellent month for sowing hardy crops that thrive in cooler conditions. The soil is still holding some of the summers warmth and the moisture levels ideal. So now is the time to think ahead. By sowing into open ground, raised beds, or containers, and making use of mulching, you can harvest fresh greens in winter and early spring. Now is the ideal time to enjoy the many benefits of overwintering crops. It’s an ideal strategy for beginner gardeners as the crops below are relatively easy to grow, as long as you keep them protected.
Broad Beans (Vicia faba)
Broad beans are a staple October sowing. Sow seeds roughly 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 7 to 8 inches (20 cm) apart in open ground, raised beds or pots. In heavy clay soils, raised beds can improve drainage, but if planting direct make sure the seeds do not get waterlogged. Like many seeds they are prone to rot, so consider sowing under cover until the plat is well established. Germination is best between 10–20°C . Young seedlings benefit from fleece during harsh frosts but the plant will gradually grow into sturdy a stem that will withstand cool conditions. Aphids (Black bean aphid) are a common pest; encourage ladybirds and lacewings, or use organic sprays such as diluted soap solutions. Removing aphids early can help the spread considerably but if its mulching around plants conserves soil warmth and reduces weeds.
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
Spinach thrives in cooler autumn temperatures. Sow seeds 1–2 cm deep in fertile, moist soil, either directly in the ground, in containers or raised beds. Germination occurs best between 10–16°C. Spinach produces leafy rosettes that can be harvested as baby leaves within 6–8 weeks and continue through winter with protection. I cover mine with netting but try to raise it well above the plants to allow for good airflow. I also use further protection for young plants when transplanting into their final position in the form of a closh fashioned from a 5lt water bottle.

Mulch with compost to retain soil moisture and a moderate temperature. Slugs and snails are the main threat — organic controls include beer traps, copper tape, or evening hand-picking all work well. If you want to wrap copper tape around your closh that can be helpful. I regularly spray with a home made garlic spray. The pungent smell irritates the slugs and snails sensitive mucus membrane. To make the spray just peel 3 or 4 cloves, cut in half, pop them in a spray bottle and fill with water. Leave this for a few days for the garlic to infuse. Spray directly on the spinach a couple of times a week.
Winter Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
Choose hardy varieties such as ‘Winter Density’ or ‘Arctic King’ these are excellent for October sowings. Seeds should be sown thinly, just under the soil surface, either under cloches in the ground or in trays and modules under cover. A green house or polytunnel is ideal, however if you don’t have either cover a seed tray with a clear seed tray cover of lose clear plastic until seeds have germinated. Germination is best at 10–15°C. Plants form compact heads or loose-leaf rosettes that can be harvested from late winter through early spring. Mulch with straw or leaf mould to insulate roots and deter weeds. Protect plants from frost with fleece or cloches. Slugs are the main pest; barriers of wool pellets or sand can provide effective organic defence, or see the tips above for spinach.
Garlic (Allium sativum) and Spring Onions (Allium cepa var. cepa)
Garlic cloves should be planted 2–3 cm deep, spaced 10–15 cm apart, in well-drained soil or raised beds. They require a cold spell to develop bulbs. For a full guide on how to grow garlic see my post Overwintering garlic: A new growers guide
Spring Onions (Allium cepa var. cepa)
Spring onions, such as ‘White Lisbon Winter Hardy,’ can be sown under cover in modules or trays as soon as possible. Sow thinly at 1 cm deep; germination is best between 10–20°C. Spring onions benefit from mulching, this improves soil structure and keeps weeds at bay. Pests include onion fly and rust; rotating crops, ensuring good airflow and netting will all provide organic prevention.
Peas (Pisum sativum)
Hardy varieties like ‘Meteor’ can be sown directly in October for a potential early May crop. Plant seeds 5 cm deep and 5–8 cm apart in double rows, with supports already in place. It’s important to put your supports in when you plant – putting them in once the plant is well established risks damaging the roots as the support goes in. Germination occurs quite reliably in cool soils between 7–15°C. Plants grow slowly through winter before flourishing in early spring. Cover emerging shoots with netting to prevent bird damage. Mildew can be an issue later, but mulching to keep soil moisture consistent, combined with adequate spacing, helps reduce risk organically. Powdery mildew often occurs as the weather warms and the plant tends to get a but humid. Again airflow is key, but some people swear by spraying the affected areas with milk spray. Three parts water, to one part milk in a spray bottle applied to the plant.
Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus)
Cold-hardy varieties such as ‘Autumn King’ can still be sown in October in light, sandy soils, ideally in raised beds or pots. Sow thinly 1 cm deep in rows 15–20 cm apart. Germination is best in soils between 7–20°C. Growth will be slow but steady, producing sweet roots by early spring. Carrot fly is the main pest, but mesh barriers or sowing in raised beds taller than 60 cm offer effective organic protection. Mulching helps retain moisture and prevent frost damage to young seedlings. Protect with a loose layer of net and remove when seeds have germinated.
Final Thoughts
Sowing in October is all about working with nature’s rhythms. I try to choose hardy varieties that can withstand cooler climates. I use mulches like straw, peat free compost, and leaf mould to insulate roots, suppress weeds, and improve soil health. Because I am an organic gardener I use organic controls to deal with the critters that are attracted to winter crops. By embracing overwintering, and having a little patience to wait for spring, you’ll not only extend your growing season but will also get a head start on the next growing season.
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