Solitaire Gardener

Grow food. Save money. Live well. Enjoy.

Tag: self-sufficiency

  • Tips for Successful Solo Vegetable Gardening

    A person gardening with a wheelbarrow in a lush garden, surrounded by blooming flowers and greenery, with a wooden fence and trees in the background.

    The solitaire gardeners philosophy

    My blog site is called solitaire gardener because mostly that’s what I am, a solo gardener. Yes I’ve had some help over the years but pretty much the food I produce is done on a solo basis.

    I’ve always craved a connection with nature and have generally had what I believe is a healthy scepticism for our commercial food system. While fresh strawberries in December may be amazing – I think we lack an appreciation for our food when it’s available from the supermarket all year round.

    I love the idea of locally grown and seasonally available produce, and what can be more local than your own veg patch.

    My issue has always been the fact that those around me don’t share my vision quite so passionately 😊

    Hence growing veg mostly on my own.

    The pivot here though, is that I don’t see solo gardening as a disadvantage – it’s actually liberating, enjoyable and fulfilling.

    Here are some of the reasons why:

    • You’re the boss
    • You dictate what you grow
    • You dictate how much you grow
    • Progress happens at your own pace
    • You are in control
    • You don’t need to impress anyone
    • You learn under your own steam

    I know gardening solo may seem overwhelming, but keep those bullet points in mind as they will help guide you through the next few frantic gardening months.

    Take control

    Now is the time to start taking control by deciding what you are going to grow.

    We all know that late winter feeling of wanting to grow everything, everywhere, all at once. But now is your chance to really forge your own path and ensure you are not overwhelmed.

    What to consider

    I’ve written a couple of blogs that may help you decide what seeds to sow in late winter – but the lists given are by no means exhaustive. I’ll give you a quick overview in the next section, but you can also read more here What Seeds To Start In February and here Herb Seeds to Sow Indoors in Late Winter

    The important thing here for the solo gardener is to not let your seed staring in particular get out of hand.

    So below are some tips to help shape the growing season ahead.

    • Focus on what you know you will eat
    • Focus on filling the space you have not, the space you would like to have
    • Think carefully about more vertical growing if space is limited
    • Think carefully about how you are going to store your produce. Unless of course you intend to share with family and friends. In which case trust me after the 20th courgette (zucchini) they may not be so keen to accept your bountiful gifts.
    • Consider the time you have available and be realistic

    Seed staring ideas

    As I suggested in the previous section I’ve written a couple of blogs around what you might sow this time of year indoors in the UK.

    But as promised here is a round up of all those mentioned and a couple more you might want to consider, again this is not an exhaustive list and is tailored to more temperate growing zones.

    • Aubergines    
    • Tomatoes
    • Cabbage
    • Radish
    • Peppers
    • Carrots
    • Onion
    • Leeks
    • Beets
    • Chilli
    • Peas
    • Broad beans
    • winter Lettuce
    • Basil
    • Sage
    • Thyme
    • Rosemary
    • Spinach

    You can also start celery (start indoors), and parsnips direct if you ground isn’t too waterlogged.

    It’s so tempting to want to grow everything, but my suggestion when you’re first starting out or gardening solo is to pick 5 different seeds to start indoors now. Sow them, nurture them, prepare the space outside where they will grow and mature. When each batch of seeds is established and about an inch (2.5 c.ms) – only then sow succession batches. This ensures that you:

    • Are dealing with small enough batches to handle.
    • Can concentrate your efforts
    • Have succession plants ready in case your plants fail when planted out

    Obviously you do you, and garden in your own way – but this is about trying not get overwhelmed and keeping you solo veg growing journey manageable.

    You decide how you garden – Minimal setup, minimal stress

    My top tip for basic decision whether it’s a garden, allotment or your own land is to keep it as simple at first. Life is complicated enough without making growing your own food stressful, especially when gardening on your own.

    This is about removing anything that intimidates or is unnecessarily complicated. You don’t need the perfect set up – you need a workable one.

    For your outside planting space you will need to consider some of the following:

    • Planting direct into the soil – garden beds
    • raised beds
    • a mixture of raised beds and garden beds
    • a compost bin or pile
    • watering -water butts, hoses and watering cans

    Once you’ve considered these basics, work with it for a while and amend as needed. Remember that daily attention and observation can be worth more than a tonne of fancy gardening gadgets.

    While gadgets can be fun and there’s no denying they can sometimes make life a little easier – they are not the be all and end all. You can garden perfectly adequacy without them.

    The idea with a any garden is to sort your basics, and get into a rhythm that fits with your lifestyle. If you work full time and only have evenings to tend your garden, then be realistic about the amount of plants you can look after. This is not defeatism, it’s realism and will stop you getting overwhelmed.

    So many times I have gotten ahead of myself – thinking it’s fine I’ll make time. When that time doesn’t materialise I’ve gotten frustrated and despondent about my progress. Far better to scale it back a bit, celebrate and enjoy your successes.

    Building gardening momentum

    As a newer gardener you need to build a rhythm and momentum. The daily gardening habits you build can often be more important than the actual technique.

    This is how I would recommend you begin that journey :

    • Start small
      • wins build energy, over committing drains it.
    • Grow what you eat and what you enjoy
      • your motivation lives in the relevance of the food you decide to grow
    • Expect imperfection
      • don’t compare yourself with perfect social media channel were all the veg looks perfect and the person delivering the message looks amazing – that’s not the reality, it’s curated for views
    • Check your plants daily
      • This will not only teach you how each plant develops, but will also allow you to deal with any problems early doors. Gardening is no different to live – the sooner you deal with a problem the better the outcome
    • Sow in small batches
      • As I mentioned earlier – this will help you plan and stay in control

    And finally ……

    Gardening on your own can be an absolute joy – you have the freedom to do things your own way. Find your own groove, and remember small harvesters are meaningful, you are free to learn in your own way, and small regular tasks build momentum.

    Take your time, be kind to yourself, and you will grow food that is nourishes both your body and soul.

    Let me know in the comments your top tips for solo gardening – what helps and what hinders? I’d love to hear your thoughts.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram.

    For more posts see below…….

    Thank you for visiting, and if you would like to discuss garden coaching or mentoring please contact me via the form on the about me page https://solitairegardener.co.uk/about/

  • Herb Seeds to Sow Indoors in Late Winter

    Herb Seeds to Sow Indoors in Late Winter

    A sunny outdoor scene featuring several potted plants on a round table. The plants include basil and a small shrub on the table, with rosemary and sage plants in orange pots beside them, set against a green background with soft clouds.

    Most people buy herbs as small potted plants from a garden centre, nursery or even a supermarket. However, with a little patience you can sow your own herb seeds indoors in late January or February for a fraction of the cost.

    Home grown herbs will make you wonder why you ever bought bunches of sad looking herbs wrapped in plastic from the supermarket. Growing herbs from seed at home will not only save you money, it will also result in less waste, and give you an abundance of garden aromatics you can preserve for longer term storage.

    The post below is written with newer gardeners in mind and focuses on herbs that are useful in everyday cooking, reliable to start indoors, and happy in a UK climate. We will look at basil, rosemary, thyme, and sage, covering how to sow, what conditions they need to germinate, and how to care for each plant through to maturity.

    We will refer to a propagator which is clear (plastic or glass) cover for seed trays or pots that trap warmth and humidity to help germination. You can also get heated versions which provide gentle bottom heat. Heated propagators are great, but don’t fret if you don’t have one. Popping your seed pot or module tray in a clear plastic bag (a food zip lock bag is fine) and keeping it on a sunny window sill should suffice. Many seeds like to soil warmer at this time of year, so bring your seed compost indoors a few days before planting. This will allow the compost to warm up a bit and result in happier seeds.

    You’ll also see references to succession sowing (sowing small batches at intervals so you always have fresh plants coming along) and transplanting (moving plants on into larger pots or outside once conditions are right). Both are simple, practical techniques that quickly become second nature.

    General Setup for late winter Sowing

    Before we dive into individual herbs, it’s worth getting the basics right.

    You will need:

    • Seed trays or small pots (2–3 in / 5–7.5 cm) deep
    • Multi‑purpose compost or seed compost
    • A warm sunny windowsill
    • Clear plastic bags or a clear lid (for humidity) or heated propogator

    Light & warmth: In January/February, light levels are low. A bright windowsill is ideal. Most herbs germinate best at approximately 10 –21°C. (60–70°F). The best advice for seed germination temperatures will be written on each seed packet.

    Watering: Keep compost damp, not wet. Overwatering is the quickest way to lose seedlings. Seeds can get mouldy if they are too wet.

    Humidity trick: For slow or fussy germinators, loosely place a clear plastic bag over the pot or seed tray to trap humidity. Remove it as soon as seedlings appear. This is a good idea for most seeds started indoors at this time of year such as chillies or aubergines (Eggplant). Unless of course you have a heated propagator.

    See here for seeds to sow in late January What Vegetable Seeds to Sow in Late January: A planting Guide for Beginners

    Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Genovese – classic Italian basil, excellent for pesto
    • Sweet Green – reliable and fast growing (high notes of mint & clove)
    • Greek (Bush) Basil – compact, ideal for windowsills (smaller leaves – strong flavour)

    How to sow

    • Sow seeds ¼ in (0.5 cm) deep
    • Space seeds about 1 in (2.5 cm) apart
    • Lightly cover and gently water

    Basil needs warmth to germinate, ideally 18–24°C. (65–75°F) A plastic bag or propagator lid is very helpful here.

    Germination

    • Time: 5–10 days
    • Remove plastic cover as soon as seedlings emerge

    Growth and repotting

    Basil grows quickly. Once seedlings have 2–3 true leaves, thin them out or pot on into 4–5 in (10–12.5 cm) pots. Basil dislikes having cramped roots.

    True leaves are the first set of leaves that appear after the initial seed leaves. The true leaves will look the same as the leaves on a mature plant. The seed leaves will show first and are generally smaller. If you are unsure check with the picture on your seed packet or do a quick internet search. You can also wait until you have more than 2 true leaves. It won’t be the end of the world if you don’t pot on until you have 3 or 4 leaves.

    If you have 3 or 4 true leaves before it’s time to plant outside then just transplant to a slightly larger pot until it’s time to plant out – around April/May or after your last frost date.

    Succession sowing

    Highly recommended. Sow a new batch every 3 – 4 weeks to ensure a constant supply.

    Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)

    Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean, where it grows in poor, well‑drained soils and plenty of sun. Understanding this makes its preferences much easier to meet indoors.

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Common Rosemary – hardy and reliable
    • Miss Jessopp’s Upright – neat growth, good for pots
    • Tuscan Blue – strong flavour, vigorous once mature

    How to sow

    • Sow seeds on the surface and lightly cover with compost
    • Use small pots rather than trays

    Rosemary prefers slightly cooler conditions than basil, around 15–18°C (60–65°F)

    Germination

    • Time: 14–28 days (sometimes longer, so be patient)
    • A plastic bag helps retain humidity, but sure there is some ventilation.

    Growth and repotting

    Rosemary grows slowly. Seedlings can stay in their original pots for several months. Repot only when roots clearly fill the pot.

    Ongoing care

    • Plenty of sunlight
    • Allow compost to dry slightly between watering. Rosemary doesn’t like soggy roots.
    • Avoid high humidity once established, so remove any plastic bag covers

    Succession sowing

    Germination can be uneven, so sowing a second pot as backup is sensible.

    Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

    Thyme also originates from the Mediterranean region, thriving in sunny, dry conditions. This heritage explains why it prefers good drainage and dislikes being overwatered.

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Common Thyme – versatile and hardy
    • Lemon Thyme – fresh citrus flavour
    • English Thyme – reliable for cooking

    How to sow

    • Sow on the surface
    • Press seeds gently into compost
    • Don’t bury the seed too deeply into the compost

    Germination

    • Time: 10–21 days
    • Best temperature: 15–21°C (60–70°F)
    • Plastic bag useful until germination, once the seeds show a few millimetres above the soil, change the plastic bag for a propagator lid.

    Remember if you don’t have a propagator lid you can cut the flat end from a clear plastic water bottle – poke holes in the remainder of the bottle, and remove the lid for airflow, then place that over your seedling pot.

    Clear plastic bottle placed upside down in soil, with a coiled hose attached, surrounded by a wire fence.

    Growth and repotting

    Thyme stays small and doesn’t mind being slightly root‑bound. Pot on only when growth slows noticeably.

    Ongoing care

    • Sunlight light is essential
    • Water sparingly
    • Trim lightly to encourage bushiness

    Succession sowing

    Resow if germination is patchy.

    Sage (Salvia officinalis)

    Sage is native to the Mediterranean and Balkan regions, where it grows as a hardy, shrubby perennial. It adapts well to UK and cooler climate well once established.

    Good varieties for the UK

    • Common Sage – classic culinary variety
    • Broad‑Leaved Sage – excellent flavour
    • Purple Sage – ornamental and edible

    How to sow

    • Sow seeds ¼ in (0.5 cm) deep
    • Space well, as seedlings grow steadily

    Germination

    • Time: 10–21 days
    • Temperature: 15–21°C (60–70°F)
    • Plastic bag helpful in early stages

    Growth and repotting

    Sage seedlings are sturdy. Pot on once roots fill the container. Avoid oversized pots early on as you risk over watering. Sage can be potted on a number of times into sequentially larger pots as the plant develops. Just be careful you don’t damage the roots when repotting – gently does it!

    Ongoing care

    • Plenty of light
    • Moderate watering
    • Good air circulation prevents mildew

    Succession sowing

    Optional. Sage is long‑lived, so one or two healthy plants are usually enough.

    When to Move Herbs Outdoors

    From late April to May, herbs can be hardened off and moved outside once frost risk has passed. Start by placing them outdoors for a few hours a day, gradually increasing exposure.

    When I first plant outside I make sure the new plant is protected form slugs, snails and other beasties until it becomes more established. I will generally use little closh or some netting.

    Final Thoughts

    Growing herbs indoors in January is about small steps and steady progress. Not every seed will germinate, and that’s normal. Succession sowing, patience, and observation are the to turning those tiny seeds into a fruitful herb bed that can be utilised in any kitchen or medicinal cabinet.

    Let me know in the comments what your favourite herbs are in the garden.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on BlueSky, Pinterest or Instagram

    Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation
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    Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips
    If you've ever gone out to admire your courgette/zucchini plants, spotted a perfectly sized fruit, and thought, 'I'll pick that tomorrow'. You excitedly wander …

    This post encourages beginners to grow herbs indoors from seed in late winter, focusing on basil, rosemary, thyme, and sage. It outlines sowing techniques, ideal conditions for germination, and ongoing care. Succession sowing is recommended for a continuous supply. Growing your own herbs saves money and reduces waste while enhancing culinary experiences.

  • Dehydrate Garlic This January: Save Flavour and Prevent Waste

    Why Garlic Softens Over Winter & Why January Is the Right Time to Act

    A food dehydrator filled with trays of sliced garlic in a kitchen setting, with whole garlic bulbs on the countertop.

    By mid to late January in the UK, stored garlic often starts to change. Even in cool sheds or cupboards, bulbs can slowly lose firmness as heating is ratcheted up & humidity fluctuates. While some of your garlic may no longer be ideal for long term storage through to summer, it is usually still perfectly good to eat. Acting now by dehydrating it preserves flavour, prevents waste, and gives you a reliable supply of garlic well into the year ahead.

    As a general rule I check my pantry stored garlic pretty much every week at this time of year. When I say check, I mean I actively ferret around in the mesh storage bag for bulbs or cloves that do not feel firm to the touch. If I only have a few bulbs I will pop them in the Rayburn (like an AGA and constantly on a low heat). If once prepped, I think I have enough to fill a few trays I will put them in the dehydrator.

    In this post we will look at the different way to approach dehydrating garlic for longer term storage. You don’t need to rush out and by a dehydrator this can also be done in an oven. A small dehydrator will set you back anywhere between £30 to £60, with a large fancy one setting you back significantly more! My best advice if you are in the market for a dehydrator is to start with a smaller, cheaper model, & honestly assess how often you use it before shelling out for a larger model. Dehydrators are useful pieces of kit, & may well save you money over a period of years given the price of gas in the UK. However, it’s not essential certainly if you are just starting your preserving journey.

    For more information on growing your own garlic this post might be helpful Overwintering Garlic: A New Growers Guide

    Preparing Garlic for Dehydration

    Start by breaking your garlic bulbs into cloves, discarding any that are mouldy or badly damaged (soft alone is fine). Peel the cloves and slice them thinly – about 2–3 mm (⅛ inch), the thinner the slice the quicker they will dry. Uniform slices are important because thicker pieces can trap moisture and spoil later.

    Once you have prepped your garlic you can dry it in a few ways. I will say at this point that in the UK at this time of year it’s clearly not going to be dried by the sun 😂

    Dehydrating Garlic: Multiple Methods That Work

    The dehydrator method: Peel and slice each clove into spread slices in a single layer and dry at 50 – 55°C (120–130°F) for 6–10 hours until brittle. Your dehydrator may have a handbook or instruction manual that will also offer specific information your particular machine.

    The oven method: Place the small slices on a baking sheet and use the lowest setting (often 60–70°C / 140–160°F), prop the door slightly open, and turn slices occasionally. Again spread out the slices so air can circulate allowing them to dry more evenly.

    The air-dry method: You can airdry garlic in a warm, well-ventilated room, though this takes several days and works best in dry, stable conditions. This is probably not the best method for most homes in the UK as there will undoubtedly be some humidity.

    In all cases the garlic is ready when it breaks easily and feels brittle. If you are in any doubt leave it a bit longer, any moisture will mean your final product will spoil more quickly.

    Turning Dried Garlic into Flakes or Powder

    Once fully dry and cooled, garlic slices can be stored as flakes or ground into powder. For flakes, lightly crush by hand or pulse briefly in a food processor. For powder, blend longer and sift out any larger pieces.

    Useful tip: grind only small batches if you want garlic powder, as garlic powder loses potency faster than whole flakes. Interestingly, dehydrated garlic often tastes stronger than fresh because the flavour compounds become more concentrated. Generally I find that a 1/4 teaspoon of garlic powder equates to about 2 cloves of garlic. However, you will need to play around with this and adjust for your taste. There’s probably more consistency i.e. 1/4 teaspoon to 1 clove when using shop bought garlic powder, but with homegrown and home dried there are too many variables to maintain that level of consistency.

    Safe Storage for Long-Term Use

    Store dried garlic flakes or powder in airtight jars, ideally glass, and kept in a cool, dark place as you would any other herb or spice. Add a food-safe silica gel sachet or a small amount of dry rice to help absorb any moisture that might build up. Properly dried and stored garlic can last 12 months or more when stored properly. Always check for clumping, off smells, or moisture as these will all be signs that you may need to re-dry or to start again. I don’t need to tell you not to ingest anything you are not 100% sure are safe to consume. Done right, dehydrating garlic turns a potential loss into one of the most useful pantry staples you can make.

    Final Thoughts

    January is a perfect checkpoint for stored garlic. What won’t comfortably last until your next harvest doesn’t need to be wasted. Whether you use flakes or powder, home-preserved garlic is often stronger, cleaner tasting, and far more satisfying than shop-bought alternatives.

    At a glance:
    • Soft garlic in winter is normal and still usable
    • Dehydrate before sprouting starts for best flavour
    • Dehydrators are most reliable but ovens are a good alternative
    • Flakes store longer than powder, but both are useful
    • Keep airtight, dry, and dark for up to a year or more

    A small job in January can save months of waste, and give you one of the most useful staples in your kitchen.

    If you have any tips for dehydrating your garlic please do share them in the comments.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

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  • Build Your Own Dead Hedge: A Beginners Guide

    Illustration of a dead hedge structure featuring wooden stakes and layered branches, showcasing a simple and natural garden design.

    A dead hedge is one of the simplest, yet most effective & environmentally friendly garden structures you can build. However, for some reason it remains surprisingly under-used in many gardens. This may be a lack of access to materials if you live in a city or very built up area or maybe just because it’s not the first thing people consider when planning a plot or garden.

    Traditionally seen in ancient woodland management, dead hedges are now enjoying something of a revival among gardeners. So if you are looking for a sustainable, low-impact boundary that supports wildlife and deals with your pruning waste, then this is the blog for you. Whether you have a large rural plot, an allotment, or a postage stamp garden, a dead hedge can be easily adapted to fit your space and needs.

    Below we will look at the benefits of a dead hedge and give a step by step guide for the construction of your gloriously natural hedge.

    What is a dead hedge?

    At its core, a dead hedge is a woven barrier made from cut branches, twigs, prunings and other woody waste material. Instead of burning or binning garden waste, you layer it between upright stakes. Hazel or chestnut are good for dead hedges but really any straightish, sturdy branches can be used as the frame for you dead hedge. The beauty is that almost anything woody can go into it: bramble stems, hedge trimmings, fallen branches, pruned fruit tree limbs and even woody perennial cuttings. Larger pieces form the base structure, while thinner twigs weave into the gaps to make it sturdier and more compact.

    Dead hedges are great for nature. They offer shelter and nesting sites for a wide range of wildlife. Robins, wrens, hedgehogs, beetles, frogs and solitary bees can all find sanctuary in a dead hedge. The hedge will provide protection from predators, safe overwintering spots and a steady food source as insects colonise the decaying wood. In areas where hedgehog populations are struggling, a dead hedge can become a vital refuge. Birds benefit from the insects that thrive within the hedge, while frogs enjoy the moist, protected microclimate that forms at the base.

    In larger spaces, you might create a long boundary hedge or use one to section off a composting or woodland area. In smaller gardens, even a short hedge – just a metre (3ft) or so, can offer valuable wildlife habitat. They also make excellent windbreaks, privacy screens and natural barriers to gently steer foot traffic without resorting to fencing. Because they are built from materials already on site, they blend into the landscape far more naturally than manufactured structures.

    Over time, a dead hedge will slowly break down as microbes, fungi and insects do their work. This decomposition is part of the design rather than a flaw. Depending on the materials used and the local climate, a dead hedge can last anywhere from 3 to 10 years. Hardwoods decay more slowly, while softwoods and thin twigs rot down faster. As the structure gradually settles, it enriches the soil beneath it with organic matter, improving soil health and supporting fungi and invertebrate life. In this way, your hedge becomes a living part of a natural nutrient cycle. Because it’s no a one and done, and is added to over time, you can continue to fill it as the original contents breakdown,

    Caring for a dead hedge is about a low-maintenance as it gets. Simply top it up with more prunings, autumn cuttings, winter windfall wood or general garden clippings. This keeps the structure sturdy while giving you a convenient place to recycle garden waste year-round. There’s no need for tools beyond basic loppers and secateurs (pruners). Adding new material every few months creates a layered effect, helping the hedge stay compact and effective as a barrier. It also ensures a constant supply of fresh habitat for insects and small animals.

    Just to give an idea of how a simple dead hedge can be, this is small one I created last season to hold some of my butternut squash plants. Granted it’s not the prettiest you’ll ever see, but hopefully it will give you an idea of it’s simplicity and versatility.

    A small dead hedge structure filled with soil and topped with fallen leaves and twigs, surrounded by green foliage.

    Step-by-step build

    Step 1 – Mark out the line

    Decide on the length or shape of your new dead hedge and mark out your shape with string, or whatever you have to hand. This is just a marker so the stakes go in the correct desired place.

    Step 2 – Set the upright stakes

    Place two rows of stout stakes at roughly 60 –100 cm (2–3 ft) intervals along the line. For small hedges you can go 80 cm or less apart; for very robust hedges reduce spacing. Drive stakes about 30 – 40 cm (12–16 in) into the ground so they’re firm (leaving 1–1.2 m (3 – 4 ft) above ground). These measurements are only a guide, it will very much depend on what you have available. The spacing in the picture above is really quite random as I needed a new growing bed quite quickly and threw it together in a couple of hours one afternoon.

    Step 3 – Make the base

    Lay larger, thicker pieces of wood lengthways between stakes at the base. These form the backbone and help the hedge settle on the ground evenly. They also help to make the structure more sturdy. If you’re creating a longer, taller hedge then I wouldn’t skip this step. However, if the structure is smaller then it’s desirable but not essential to have a base layer of thicker wood go in first.

    Step 4 – Layer and pack

    Begin adding branches and prunings between the stakes, laying them lengthwise along the hedge. Use thicker pieces toward the centre and base; use thinner twigs to fill gaps and add compactness. Pack material tightly so it won’t slump – aim for a dense structure.

    Step 5 – Weave or tie (optional)

    If you want more stability, weave thinner flexible rods (hazel works well, but anything a bit bendy will suffice) horizontally through the stakes (like wattle) or tie bundles with twine to hold them in place. This is more work but makes a neater, longer-lasting barrier.

    Step 6 – Build in layers & habitat

    Continue building in layers until the hedge reaches the desired height. commonly 0.6 –1.5 m (2–5 ft) for garden use, or taller if used as a boundary. Compact each layer as you go. Again these measurements are only a guide. This is all your own creation so what feels right for your design and the space available.

    Step 8 – Cap it off

    Finish with a top layer of smaller twigs and brash to shed rain and give a tidy appearance. If you like, add a “cap” of larger branches laid across to slow decomposition of the top layer and for ascetic affect then feel free – you do you!

    Things you can put in a dead hedge

    • Hedge clippings
    • Prunings from fruit trees and shrubs
    • Brash, bramble (useful for structure)
    • Fallen branches and coppice material
    • Woody perennial cuttings (not diseased)
    • Avoid large quantities of sap-rich green cuttings (they rot anaerobically) and avoid diseased wood
    • Avoid large quantities of weeds – they will tend to spread and can create weeding issues down the line. You don’t need to be too picky if there are a few weeds in a pile of brush. However, I’d save the majority of weeds for the compost bin.

    Care, maintenance & longevity

    • Top up regularly: add fresh prunings every few months or annually to maintain bulk and renew habitat.
    • Longevity: depending on materials and weather, a dead hedge typically lasts 3 –10 years. Hardwoods last longer, softwoods break down quicker.
    • Monitoring: every year check stakes for rot; replace any that become loose. Tidy if necessary, but don’t over-neaten, wildlife prefers a bit of mess.
    • When it collapses: as it decomposes you can either let it integrate into the ground as a wildlife log/compost strip, or dismantle and reuse large pieces in new hedges.

    Safety & best practice

    • Don’t include treated wood, paint-coated timber or invasive roots.
    • Be careful with thorny material – use gloves and eye protection.
    • If the hedge sits on a boundary, check with neighbours and local bylaws if needed (usually fine in private gardens, but be polite).
    • Avoid building in areas that block water flow or contravene conservation rules (if you’re in a protected site, check with your local council or wildlife trust).

    In an age when many gardeners are trying to reduce waste, support biodiversity and work more closely with nature, a dead hedge is a simple but powerful solution. It turns what would have been green waste into a living, breathing structure that benefits wildlife, improves soil health and offers a cheap easy solution when pennies are tight. Whether tall or low, long or short, rustic or neatly woven, a dead hedge is an easy, ecological and rewarding feature you can build at any time of year.

    If you want straightforward visual information about creating a dead hedge then you might find this video by ‘Lovely Greens’ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2A9k2kk_hs

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

    Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation

    The post emphasizes the importance of observation in gardening, encouraging gardeners to slow down and learn from their plants. By recognising growth patterns and changes, they can address issues effectively and enhance their confidence as gardeners.

    solitairegardener's avatar by solitairegardener

    Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips

    If you’ve ever gone out to admire your courgette/zucchini plants, spotted a perfectly sized fruit, and thought, ‘I’ll pick that tomorrow’. You excitedly wander into the garden the next day, only to discover what appears to be a small submarine lurking under the leaves. You’re not alone. Trust me, I’ve been growing Courgettes/Zucchini for years,…

    solitairegardener's avatar by solitairegardener

    Top Vegetables to Sow in June for a Bountiful Harvest

    June is an excellent month for sowing various heat-loving vegetables, with rapid germination and growth. Ideal conditions for crops like pumpkins, turnips, and spring onions encourage healthy yields. Newer gardeners can still enjoy successful harvests, even if the growing season began slowly.

    solitairegardener's avatar by solitairegardener

    Unlock Healthy Growth with Deep Watering Techniques

    Effective watering fosters strong root systems in plants. Deep watering enhances drought resilience and reduces evaporation, essential for healthy growth. Observational skills help gardeners adjust their watering techniques for optimal results.

    solitairegardener's avatar by solitairegardener

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  • Vegetable Garden Planning for the Coming Year

    Vegetable Garden Planning for the Coming Year

    A cozy indoor scene featuring a wooden table covered with various vegetable seed packets, a notebook, and a pencil. A warm fire burns in a stove nearby, and a Christmas tree is visible in the background.

    Making the Most of the Quiet Season

    I feel like I say this with almost every blog I write, but this really is one of my favourite times of the gardening year. True, nothing much is happening in the garden, but December for me is filled with expectation and the unshakable belief that next year the vegetables I plant will produce the best harvest yet.

    It’s with this excitement that I carve out time over the festive season to do some serious garden planning. Time spent with a cuppa by the fire and a copy of Charles Dowding’s (Not sponsored/affiliated but they do make lovely Xmas presents Calendar, Wallchart & Diary – Charles Dowding) planting calendar can save a whole host of haphazard early spring chaos.

    Those around the world who don’t celebrate the xmas season or for whom it is summer please do map this post onto the time of year that you have a moment to breath and dream of the luscious, abundant harvests to come.

    Whether you’ve a balcony, a postaged stamp sized garden, an allotment or a vast acreage, planning for the coming seasons is a task that will help to ensure a successful growing year.

    So many seeds – so little time 😊

    Choosing the right vegetable seeds for our increasingly unpredictable UK climate is the first step to a productive season. Hardy crops such as beetroot, chard, kale, broad beans, brassicas, leeks and onions tolerate our cooler weather very well, while heat-lovers like peppers (bell peppers) and tomatoes benefit from an early indoor start, where temperatures can be better regulated. The winter break is an ideal time to think about which crops your family truly eats. Will you fill your growing space with reliable staples that store or preserve well such as carrots, potatoes, pumpkins, onions and beets. Or will you save a little room to try something new even if it’s a gamble for storage or taste? You might also consider growing pricier crops that are expensive in the uk to buy such as asparagus or ginger both of which can be frozen for longer storage. Having said that, asparagus in my opinion is never as nice once frozen, but still useful for bakes and quiches. For storage-heavy crops like onions, garlic and winter squash, choose varieties bred for long keeping, as they can dramatically extend your self-sufficiency into the colder months.

    Deciding what to focus on will help you plan out your year more effectively.

    Out with the old

    This quiet period is also perfect for sorting and organising your seed collection. Seed viability differs widely: parsnip seeds rarely last beyond a year or two year, while tomatoes, brassicas, lettuce and many herbs can remain viable for three to five years when stored properly. Older seeds can still germinate and may well surprise you, but germination rates naturally decline with age. When using older packets, sow a little more heavily to increase your chances of getting enough strong seedlings. The key to preserving viability is understanding the three main threats: humidity, heat and repeated freezing. Seeds stored in a warm, centrally heated room may lose viability more quickly, while a damp shed or garage can trigger mould or early sprouting. On the other hand, a freezing, uninsulated garage can damage seeds if temperatures fluctuate dramatically. Aim for cool, stable, dry conditions, an airtight tin, jar or sealed box stored in a cupboard is ideal.

    Seed sorting & storing

    When it comes to storing and categorising seeds, simple systems are often the most effective. Many UK growers use photo storage boxes, recipe-card boxes, tins, or small drawers to organise their packets. You might store them chronologically by sowing month, making it easy to pull out what’s needed each month. Alternatively you might decide to group similar varieties together, such as brassicas, roots, salads and herbs. Whatever system you choose, keep seeds in their original packets inside a sealed container with silica gel or rice to absorb moisture, store them away from radiators and heating vents, and avoid locations with fluctuating temperatures. Properly stored seeds stay viable far longer and save money year after year.

    My seed sorting strategy is always to take one of the days between xmas and the new year (if new year is in January for you) get all my seeds out, make a big mess, ditch any that are five years old, then sort them by planting month. I can then fill in the gaps with new seeds if I need them. I say if I need them, knowing full well I will be lured into purchasing twice as many throughout the year than I started with! who can resist a seed sale 😊 By mid Autumn my seed trunk (and it is a trunk, not a wee box) looks like a bomb has hit it – and so the process of promising to be tidier next year beings again.

    Winter vegetable garden planning isn’t about doing, it’s about imagining. The garden may be quiet, but this stillness invites creativity and clarity. Spread your seed packets out on the table, build your plan around the food you genuinely enjoy, review any notes you made last year and enjoy this gentle pause before the rush of spring. By taking this reflective approach now, you step into the next growing season with confidence, organisation and a renewed connection to the simple joy of growing your own food. Patience over the next couple couple of months is the key – the opportunity to get those seeds in their little module trays is coming, but for now, organising and planning will put you in a stronger position to hit the ground running come early spring.

    Consider your growing space

    Adequate crop spacing is one of the most important and yet often most overlooked elements of successful vegetable garden planning. Each crop has its own requirements, and planning this during winter prevents overcrowding, poor airflow, and reduced yields later on. Large brassicas such as cabbage, cauliflower and sprouts need generous room to expand, often 40–60cm between plants, i have been growing brassicas for many years and am still always surprised at the space they take up in my beds. Fast-growing crops like lettuce or spinach can be sown more densely or succession-planted for a steady supply. Root crops such as carrots and beetroot rely on looser soil and fairly even spacing to grow straight and strong. Climbing crops like runner beans, French beans and peas require vertical support and enough horizontal space to allow air movement around the stems, helping prevent mildew. Sprawling plants such as courgettes, pumpkins and winter squash need far more space than many expect often taking a full square metre or more. When planning your layout, also consider sunlight, crop rotation (if you rotate – some growers, myself included don’t rotate regularly) the mature size of each plant, and whether you want to interplant quick growers like radishes between slower crops. Thinking about spacing now ensures healthier plants, easier maintenance and a garden layout that feels intentional rather than overcrowded and chaotic. When you are planning for next season, read over your seed packets as most will give the planting distances, the keep that in mind when deciding where you you will plant.

    When the waiting becomes too much

    If the itch to sow becomes irresistible, you’ll be pleased to know that several seeds can be started as early as January or February in the UK. Chillies (hot peppers), aubergines (eggplants), onions from seed, early tomatoes, hardy broad beans and possibly celeriac, are all good early candidates. These crops benefit from long growing seasons and thrive when started indoors on a windowsill or under grow lights. All these long growing season crops will have a certain temperature range at which they are most likely to germinate, this should be stated on the seed packet. If not just look up the exact variety online. The germination temperature is important as is the need to mitigate for temperature fluctuation.

    Final Thoughts

    Planning your veg patch is about about imagining, dreaming & organising. Winter in the garden tends to be slower and this stillness invites some creativity and clarity. Spread your seed packets out on the table, build your plan around the food you love to eat, review your favourite monthly planning guidance, and enjoy this gentle pause before spring returns in earnest. By taking this reflective approach now, you will move into the next growing season with confidence, organisation and a renewed connection to the joy of growing your own healthy organic food.

    If you want a bit more on planting strategies & growing space Huw Richards has some good, & relatively affordable courses on the ‘Abundance Academy’ which are worth checking out. They are about £30 a pop & with lifetime access https://abundanceacademy.online/ (I’m not affiliated in any way – but purchased one a few years ago and found it helpful).

    Again I’m not affiliate in any way but Charles Dowding also has some really good courses on his website https://shop.charlesdowding.co.uk/collections/online-courses.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts & exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky http://@solitairegardener.bsky.social

    I also have a free 10 page guide to Organic DIY pest control. Subscribe for your free copy.

  • Planting by the Phases of the Moon

    Planting by the moon is often called lunar gardening and is the practice of timing your sowing, planting and key garden tasks to the phases of the moon rather than the standard calendar alone. The idea is that the moon’s gravitational pull influences soil moisture, sap movement, and plant growth rhythms in a similar way to ocean tides. While the concept began as folklore, it was formalised in the 20th century by biodynamic gardener Maria Thun, whose lunar sowing calendar is still widely used across the UK and Europe. For beginners, moon planting offers a natural rhythm to the gardening month that feels grounding and surprisingly practical.

    Luna planting can often feel quite complicated, but there are some basics and if the practice excites you it’s worth taking the time to learn more. Alternatively you can take my approach which is to learn enough about the subject to pick a choose the bits of various gardening techniques that fit with both my gardening and lifestyle. I’m not a proponent of sticking rigidly to anything unless it works for you 😊

    A Brief History of Moon Planting

    The earliest records of Luna planting appear to date back to the Sumerians around 4000 BCE who developed a Luna calendar that influenced their agricultural practice. Ancient civilisations such as the Babylonians and Mayans also used a form of Luna planting. They believed that certain crops would thrive during specific Luna phases, leading to more prolific harvests. Medieval European farmers adopted similar techniques, and many traditional almanacs preserve these ideas. Today, moon planting has seen a revival through biodynamic agriculture, permaculture, and gardeners wanting to reconnect with the earths natural cycles. Many UK growers still follow lunar calendars and report improved germination and early plant vigour. The Biodynamic Association UK has been instrumental in this revival (https://www.biodynamic.org.uk), and many growers follow the annual Maria Thun Sowing and Planting Calenda.

    How Moon Planting Works

    Moon planting centres on two main lunar phases: the waxing moon (new moon to full moon) and the waning moon (full moon to new moon). The dates for these phases can be tracked via NASA’s Moon Phase Calendar (https://moon.nasa.gov/moon-in-motion/moon-phases/) or search for your UK county here https://www.timeanddate.com/moon/phases/uk

    • Waxing Moon:
      • As moonlight increases, gravitational pull is believed to draw moisture upwards, supporting above-ground growth. This phase is used for sowing leafy greens, brassicas, peas, beans and indoor sowings of tomatoes and cucumbers.
    • Waning Moon:
      • As light decreases, the pull is thought to encourage downward growth, making this the ideal time for root crops such as carrots, beetroot, radishes, potatoes and onions.

    Quarter-moon periods (first and last quarter) are often used for garden maintenance, pruning, mulching and weeding.

    Why Gardeners Follow Moon Planting

    Scientific evidence is mixed but interesting.
    A commonly cited study, published in Biological Agriculture & Horticulture (1994), observed slight differences in seed germination between lunar phases, though the results were not strong enough for broad scientific consensus. A summary of related research can be explored through the Taylor & Francis Online archive (https://www.tandfonline.com/).

    The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) has also commented on lunar gardening, stating that evidence is inconclusive but acknowledging the many gardeners who report positive results:
    https://www.rhs.org.uk/garden-jobs/lunar-gardening

    The respected and and prolific grower Charles Dowding has also written an interesting article on his experiments with Luna planting Moon Sowing

    Supporters argue that even if the moon’s gravitational influence on soil water is small, lunar planting still improves gardening habits, timing, and planning leading potentially to healthier crops.

    Vegetables for Waxing vs. Waning Moons

    Best for the Waxing Moon (above-ground crops):
    • Lettuce, spinach, rocket
    • Kale, cabbage, broccoli
    • Peas and beans
    • Chard
    • Tomatoes, cucumbers, chillies (started indoors with heat in UK conditions
    Best for the Waning Moon (root crops and below-ground veg):
    • Carrots, parsnips, beetroot
    • Turnips, swedes, radishes
    • Potatoes
    • Onion sets and garlic

    More advanced practitioners follow biodynamic calendars that also link sowing days to the zodiac constellations (earth signs = roots, water = leaves, fire = fruiting, air = flowers). This tradition is covered in detail by the Biodynamic Association UK.

    If I’m honest I love the underpinning philosophy and practice of luna planting and enjoy researching the topic. However, it does take a commitment which I struggle with. Perhaps when I eventually retire I will have more time to follow the practice more deeply. But for now pick the bits that fit with my lifestyle.

    Advantages and Disadvantages

    Advantages:
    • Offers a natural, organised sowing structure
    • Encourages mindful, intentional gardening
    • Can improve routine and planning for busy growers
    • Aligns comfortably with organic and no-dig gardening styles
    • Many gardeners claim better germination and plant health
    Disadvantages:
    • Lunar “planting windows” do not always match UK weather
    • Limited scientific consensus
    • Requires a lunar calendar for accuracy
    • Can feel complicated for beginners

    Even so, many UK gardeners embrace lunar gardening for the rhythm, ritual and the connection it brings to their growing year, even if they follow it flexibly rather than strictly.

    Final Thoughts

    Whether you follow lunar gardening to the letter or simply use it as a gentle guide as I do, planting by the moon offers a meaningful way to connect growing with natural rhythms. The method may not have universal scientific backing, but it has centuries of traditional practice behind it and continues to inspire gardeners who enjoy a slower, more mindful approach to growing. At its heart, moon planting is less about strict rules and more about creating structure, intention, and a deeper awareness of the cycles happening above, and below the soil. If you’re curious, start small, experiment through a few lunar cycles, and let your garden show you what works. After all, gardening is always a blend of knowledge, observation, and a little bit of witchy magic.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts and exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky.

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  • A Beginners Guide to Leaf Mould

    An illustration of a tree with colorful autumn leaves shedding onto a pile of fallen leaves, with a light background.

    Black Gold

    Leaf mould isn’t called ‘black gold’ or ‘gardeners gold’ for nothing – it’s a truly magical garden ingredient and it’s beauty is in the simplicity – just leaves!

    Unlike more traditional composts which are rich in nutrients formed by bacteria decomposition like the materials in your compost bin. Leaf mould is created almost entirely by the action of fungi which is a much slower process.

    The results of fully decomposed leaf mould is a dark, crumbly, sweet-smelling material that looks a bit like the rich soil you get under tress in dense woodland. Leaf mould is not technically a fertiliser, as it doesn’t contain some of the things most plants need to grow like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. So why make it I hear you say? Well it’s main benefits are its innate ability to improve soil structure. Leaf mould enhances aeration, improves drainage in clay soils and boosts moisture retention in sandy soils. It encourages the growth of mycorrhizal fungi, which forms a mutually beneficial relationship with plant roots and helps them absorbed water and soil nutrients. All this from a pile of decomposed leaves makes leaf mould a must for the garden.

    Below we will look at how leaf mould is made, best and worst types of leaves to use (and why) where to source your leaves, how to store them and how long the whole processes takes.

    How Leaf Mould Is Made

    Making leaf mould couldn’t be easier – it’s about patience rather than effort. Ideally collect fallen leaves in autumn when they’re dry and crisp. Pile them into a corner of the garden, a wire mesh bin, or large heavy-duty plastic sacks with holes poked in for air circulation. Add a little moisture if they’re too dry, then leave nature to do the rest. Over the next 12–24 months, fungi and microscopic organisms will slowly digest the tough leaf tissue, transforming it into that soft, dark, earthy material. The cooler temperatures of the UK (and similar climates) mean this process takes time, but it’s entirely self-sustaining, so no turning, no feeding. You just pile up your leaves and wait. I store my leaf mould in the large 1200 ltr. bags in which we get our mushroom compost delivered. My top tip is to make sure whatever you use to store your leaf mould has plenty of airflow, without getting it too wet.

    The Breakdown Process – and How Long It Takes

    Because leaf mould doesn’t create as much heat as regular compost and the cooler decomposition process is slower, you will need some patience to create good ‘gardeners gold’. The fungi in the leaf mould feeds on the carbon rich cell walls of the leaves, gradually converting them into humus (the soft, spongy organic matter that gives soil it’s structure). In the UK’s mildish, damp winters this process can take anything from 18 months to 2 years.

    You can speed this process up somewhat if you shred the leaves before storing them. This can cut as much as a year from the decomposition process. My tip here is to lay your leaves on the ground and run the lawn mower over them. That should break them down enough to speed up the process. You will know your leaf mould is ready when it’s dark brown, crumbly, and smells like a woodland floor. If it still looks a bit ‘leafy’ then leave it a few more months.

    If you really can’t wait the length of time it takes for the leaves to proper decompose, you can still use your leaves for a general mulch. The coarser texture will help with weed control and also help to moderate the soil temperature below.

    The Best Leaves to Use – and Why

    Some leaves break down more easily and produce better-quality leaf mould than others. The best choices are oak, beech, hornbeam, birch, hazel, and alder – these are thin, rich in lignin (Lignin is a complex organic polymer that provides rigidity, strength, and support to the cell walls of plants). Maple, ash, and fruit tree leaves also work beautifully, producing a fine, crumbly texture. Sycamore and plane tree (Platanus) leaves are slower to rot, but still usable if shredded first. For the best results, use a mix of leaves – this mimics the natural diversity of a forest floor and encourages a broader range of beneficial fungi.

    Leaves to Avoid – and Why

    Not all leaves are suitable for leaf mould. Avoid evergreen leaves like holly, laurel, conifer, and Leylandii, they have a waxy coating and resins that resist decomposition and can even inhibit fungal growth. Laurel and in particular Cherry Laurel are problematic as they contain cyanogenic glycosides, which when cut or damaged can release hydrocyanic acid (that’s cyanide to you and me.). If you are going to use laurel leaves it’s probably best to use them sparingly in your general compost with other ingredients to allow any toxins to dissipate over time in an outdoor environment. Alternatively make a separate pile and leave it to decompose for around 3 + years or use them around the base of trees as a mulch. We have quite a bit of Laurel on our property which needs regular cutting back. So I have a pile of laurel leaves which I store in one spot, then after a good few years I will those at the very base of my raised beds and around other trees. Using them in the bottom of the bed works well as it means they are mixed with other material and safer to use.

    Black walnut and eucalyptus leaves are also best left out – they contain natural chemicals (juglone and cineole) that can suppress plant growth and harm soil microbes. Tough leaves such as sycamore, horse chestnut, and magnolia can be used in moderation, but shred or mow them first to speed up breakdown. Keeping the right balance ensures your leaf mould matures evenly and safely.

    One final point on what types of leaves to use: Pine leaves (needles) are also slow to breakdown and tend to create a more acid environment. So use these around acid loving plants such as blueberries, or azaleas.

    Storing and Managing Leaf Mould as It Breaks Down

    If you have space, a simple chicken wire cage or wooden frame about 1 metre square is perfect. Line the sides with hessian or cardboard to hold in moisture, and position it in a shaded, sheltered corner where wind won’t dry out your leaf mould pile. Alternatively, use sturdy bin liners or compost sacks with a few holes for ventilation. Check the pile occasionally – if the leaves feel dry, sprinkle with water; if they’re soggy, loosen the pile for airflow. The key is maintaining steady moisture, like a wrung-out sponge. Label the bags with the year, so you can tell which batch is ready first, and remember patience is the key to excellent leaf mould.

    How to Use Leaf Mould in the Garden

    Mature leaf mould is incredibly versatile. Use it as a soil improver by spreading a few centimetres over beds in autumn or spring – it lightens heavy clay, improves drainage, and helps sandy soils hold water. It can also be mixed 50:50 with compost to create a gentle, organic seed-sowing mix, perfect for seedlings that prefer lower nutrient levels. As a mulch, it protects soil from erosion and feeds beneficial fungi that form symbiotic relationships with plant roots. Over time, it helps build rich, living soil that supports stronger, healthier, and more resilient plants. Gardeners who use leaf mould year after year find their beds become easier to work and their crops more productive – it’s the quiet miracle of decomposition at work.

    Where to Collect Leaves If You Don’t Have Trees

    If your garden or allotment doesn’t have trees, don’t worry – there are plenty of ways to gather leaves responsibly. Local parks, public paths, and wooded verges often have piles of fallen leaves that councils are happy for residents to collect, especially if it helps keep paths clear (always check local rules first, or talk to your local council). Ask neighbours with large gardens if you can take a few bags off their hands. Many municipal recycling centres or allotment associations also have leaf drop-off piles you can dip into. Bring a few reusable bags and a rake, and you’ll have enough to fill a compost cage in no time. Just make sure to avoid leaves from busy roadsides, as they may contain pollutants or salt residues.

    Final Thoughts

    Leaf mould is one of gardening’s simplest pleasures – a gift from the trees that costs nothing but patience. By gathering, storing, and reusing fallen leaves, you’re not just tidying up the garden; you’re closing the nutrient loop, enriching your soil naturally, and supporting the hidden life beneath your feet. Once you’ve used homemade leaf mould, you’ll never want to throw another leaf away.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts and exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button. You can also follow me on bluesky.

    I also have a free 10 page guide to Organic DIY pest control. Subscribe for your free copy.

    Master Your Garden: The Art of Observation
    Preventing Overgrown Courgettes: Essential Tips
    Top Vegetables to Sow in June for a Bountiful Harvest
    Simple Ways to Preserve Everyday Herbs (Without Fancy Equipment)
    Find Peace: Calm the Chaos and Remember, It’s Not Too Late
    Unlock Healthy Growth with Deep Watering Techniques

  • November Gardening: Top Crops to Plant Now

    Illustration of a garden scene in autumn with trees, grass, and gardening pots, showcasing a tranquil outdoor setting.

    November might feel like it’s time to hibernate with a good gardening book in front of a roaring fire. But for no-dig growers, (and dig gardeners of course) November is the perfect opportunity to prepare and plant hardy crops that will reward you later in the season. Many areas in UK and beyond can still support active sowing and planting, especially under cover and in well-drained raised beds or soil.

    Below are some ideas for plants to get started November, complete with planting guides, care and pest control.

    Broad Beans (Vicia faba)

    Broad beans are a fantastic crop for organic gardeners. The large seeds germinate fairly reliably in cooler soils at around 8–10 °C (46–50 °F). Their roots help fix nitrogen, so will help improve your soil naturally. Sow them about 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) apart. In heavy or wet soil, start them in trays or modules and transplant when seedlings are 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) tall. Add cane supports early, while roots are still shallow, to prevent tall stems snapping or rocking in strong winds. We put the stakes in when planting or early so as not to damage the roots later.

    Keep the soil just moist, watering every 10–14 days in beds and weekly if growing in pots under cover. Obviously if it rains a lot this watering won’t be an issue but in your plants are in a greenhouse , polytunnel or under cover then they will need some watering. Pinch out the growing tips when the first flowers start to form pods, this usually happens in late April or May. Pinching out the growing tips both deters blackfly and encourages energy into pod production. If frost threatens, a fleece tunnel will offer good protection. Slugs, snails and mice are all partial to young bean plants and blackfly can be an issue once plants are established. You can help mitigate for the critters with netting and growing undercover. If you get black fly later in the year try washing them off with soapy water. If the problem persists you can try organic nematodes. My best advice for dealing with plant critters is always start more seeds than you actually need. That way is you lose some you will have replacements.

    Key points:
    • Sow 2 inches (5 cm) deep, 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) apart.
    • Support early to prevent root disturbance later.
    • Water moderately; protect from frost and mice.
    • Pinch tips to deter blackfly and boost pod set.
    • Harvest from May; blanch and freeze surplus

    Garlic (Allium sativum) and Onions (Allium cepa)

    Garlic and overwintering onions love the chill of late autumn. They use winter’s cold to develop strong roots and firm bulbs. Choose varieties bred for overwintering, such as ‘Carcassonne Wight’ or ‘Radar’. Plant garlic cloves point-up, 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) apart in rows spaced 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Onion sets can be planted at the same spacing. I have planted quite a few ‘Sturon’ onions this year, they are hardy and reliable in well drained soil.

    Good drainage is essential, if water pools around the bulbs, rot quickly follows. In pots or raised beds, mix in leaf mould or sharp sand for aeration. Water roughly every two weeks to keep compost just moist, and cover with mesh to stop birds tugging up shoots. Again, if it rains significantly over a 2 week period, which let’s face it in a UK climate that’s a given. In which case there’s no need to water. Rotate crops annually to avoid onion fly and white rot. By midsummer, the tops will yellow and flop, signalling harvest time. Cure bulbs in a dry, airy shed for a couple of weeks before storing. For a more detailed blog on onions you might be interested in this The Ultimate guide to growing overwintering onions

    Key points:
    • Plant garlic 2 inches (5 cm) deep, 6 inches (15 cm) apart.
    • Keep soil well-drained and lightly moist.
    • Protect shoots from birds; rotate beds yearly.
    • Harvest and cure bulbs before storing.

    Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica) and Hardy Greens

    Kale might just be the perfect no-dig crop. It thrives in cool conditions, laughs in the face of frost (to a point), and keeps producing for months. Sow seeds now in trays or modules under cover, then plant out when 4 inches (10 cm) tall. Germination is happiest at 10–18 °C (50–65 °F). Mulch beds thickly with compost before planting – it feeds the soil and insulates roots over winter.

    Once planted, water once a week in pots or every 10 days in the ground, depending on rain. Add a cane beside each young plant to stop “wind rock” — when the base shifts in gusts, stressing the roots. Keep pigeons off with netting and check regularly for slugs, which love the sheltered compost surface. Harvest outer leaves as needed from late winter onwards; new leaves will keep coming through spring.

    For a more detailed blog on growing kale you might find this blog helpful How to grow kale organically

    Key points:
    • Start in trays; transplant seedlings 4 inches (10 cm) tall.
    • Mulch well and stake to prevent wind rock.
    • Protect from pigeons and slugs with netting
    • Pick outer leaves regularly for ongoing harvest.

    Winter Salads – Mizuna, Mustard, and Corn Salad (Valerianella locusta)

    If you’ve a cold frame, greenhouse, or polytunnel, you can enjoy fresh salads right through winter. Mizuna, mustard greens, and corn salad (lamb’s lettuce) germinate happily in cool conditions. Scatter seed thinly and cover with a light ¼ inch (0.5 cm) of compost. Once seedlings appear, thin to about 6 inches (15 cm) apart.

    Water lightly – winter air is damp but soil in containers will dry faster so keep an eye on your pots. Over watering however can encourages rot, so aim for soil that’s just moist to the touch. Protect with mesh or fleece if temperatures dip below freezing. Pick the outer leaves regularly to encourage new growth.

    I tend to plant some salad crops outside and some in the poly tunnel. I find they do grow a little better in the polytunnel but I do need to keep an eye on how often I water. Having said that I actually think the ones grown outside taste better.

    Key points:
    • Sow thinly, cover lightly, thin to 6 inches (15 cm).
    • Water sparingly but consistently if under cover
    • Protect from frost and slugs – slugs are very fond of young salad leaves
    • Pick outer leaves for repeat harvests.

    Peas (Pisum sativum) and Winter Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

    Hardy pea varieties like ‘Meteor’ and winter spinach like ‘Giant Winter’ are excellent for November sowings. Sow peas 2 inches (5 cm) deep, spacing seeds about 2 inches (5 cm) apart, and spinach 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep. Push in twiggy pea sticks early so their tendrils can climb and the stems don’t snap. Peas benefit from good airflow, so avoid overcrowding.

    Both crops need consistent but light watering. Water them about once a week in raised beds. Reduce watering if it rains significantly. Cover young plants with mesh to deter pigeons and keep slugs at bay with organic barriers. I find insect netting works well put loosely over the plant secured at the base. Spinach leaves can be picked after six weeks, while peas will crop from late spring. Both freeze well after blanching.

    If you want a deeper dive into planting spinach this blog might be helpful Grow Your Own Spinach

    Key points:
    • Sow hardy peas and spinach direct in November.
    • Add supports early to peas and water lightly.
    • Protect from pigeons and slugs netting can help.
    • Harvest spinach after six weeks; peas in late spring.

    Final Thoughts

    The beauty of no-dig gardening in November lies in its calm preparation. You’re not forcing growth, you’re setting the stage and allowing the winter veg to mature slowly. Compost or leave mulches feeds soil microbes and help keep everything alive and healthy through winter. Keep watering consistent if plants are under cover. Make sure plants are protected from strong winds and young plants from frost if outside.

    Even in the shortest days, your no-dig plot is quietly at work beneath the mulch. It is turning patience into next season’s abundance.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts and exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button.

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  • Ultimate Guide to Growing Overwintering Onions

    A collection of brown onions on the top half and red onions on the bottom half of the image.

    🧅 Why Grow Overwintering Onions?

    I love onions and grow at least 50 from both sets and seeds every year – more about onion sets later. This humble Allium is a kitchen essential; it’s the base for many dishes around the world, from an Italian ragu to Indian curry. Onions bring sweetness, sharpness, and depth to cooking everywhere. In our house, they are the Queen of our home crops. Onions have been valued for centuries for their health benefits, being rich in antioxidants, vitamin C, and sulphur compounds that can support heart health and overall immunity.

    Onions are believed to have arrived in Britain with the Romans, who prized them for their flavour, ease of storage, and medicinal uses. Today, onions are still one of the easiest and most rewarding crops to grow. They are often one of the first crops people consider when trying a more self-sufficient lifestyle, as they are relatively easy to grow.

    In this post, we will discover the overwintering method along with some practical tips to make your harvest a success.

    🌿 The Ideal Soil for Onions

    Onions thrive in well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH (6.5–7.5). Heavy clay should be improved with compost or grit to prevent waterlogging, which can rot bulbs during wet winters. Even these hardy crops don’t like to be constantly wet – they are plants not 🦆 ducks.

    If soil isn’t ideal, you can try raised beds or containers. I grow most of my veg in no-dig raised beds, partly because we are on heavy clay and I find I get far fewer weeds with raised beds.

    • Raised beds: Warm faster in spring and drain more freely – ideal for onions.
    • Large containers: At least 12 in (30 cm) deep, filled with loam-based compost mixed with sharp sand, are excellent for compact spaces.

    Before planting, if possible, try using an organic soil feed, such as seaweed, alfalfa meal (lucerne meal), or a mix of home-made compost or quality peat-free compost and rock dust (organic rock dust mineral fertiliser or volcanic rock dust available from most good garden centres) . These provide slow-release nutrients and trace minerals that support healthy bulb formation and soil structure.
    Avoid excessive nitrogen – lush leaves may look good, but they’ll reduce bulb size and shorten storage life. These are not essential, but may be helpful, especially if your soil is poor or you want nice big bulbs.

    🌰 Planting Onions for Overwintering

    Overwintering onions are best planted from sets (small immature bulbs) between late September and early November, giving them time to root before their winter dormancy. Onion sets can be purchased from any quality garden centre or nursery. I generally decide on hardy verities which I find work well in a UK climate.

    Planting guide:

    • Depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) deep, with just the tip of the bulb visible.
    • Spacing: 4–6 in (10–15 cm) between bulbs and 10–12 in (25–30 cm) between rows.
    • Site: Choose a sunny, sheltered spot protected from frost pockets and waterlogging.
    • How: Plant with the root end in the soil, pointy end toward the sky – I know sounds obvious, but when I was new to growing my own veg I needed all the help I could get!
    • Cover: This is optional but I always cover my newly planted onion sets with a fine piece of chicken wire. I’m convinced our local bird life watch me plant, and when the coast is clear they swoop down and dig them all up. So I peg down some chicken wire until the bulbs become a little more established.
    A collage of various onion bulbs showing their planting ends, labeled 'Planting End'.

    For raised beds and pots follow the same rules – just ensure proper drainage and airflow.

    I’ve mentioned in previous posts that I buy my raised beds from a company called ‘Estate to Garden’ https://www.estatetogarden.co.uk/ I’m not affiliated in any way, I just love their products.

    If you are interested in finding out more about gardening in raised beds, this might be the read for you How to start with raised beds

    ❄️Caring for Onions Through Winter

    Once planted, onions are fairly low-maintenance, but they do need attention during the cold months or with a run of dry weather.

    • Watering: Only if the soil dries out during mild spells.
    • Weeding: Keep the planting area clear of weeds to reduce competition.
    • Protection: In very cold conditions (below –5 °C / 23 °F), cover with fleece or cloches.
    • Feeding: In early spring, you might want to use some organic potash to boost bulb formation.

    As days begin to lengthen in spring, your onions will burst into growth – keep soil loose and weed-free to ensure good air circulation.

    Don’t worry if you see a little growth over winter, especially if conditions are mild. This generally means the plant is establishing itself. Just watch out for sudden frost. If you know a frost is due after a dry warm spell then protect the bulbs with a light fleece or row cover. A good mulch will also help insulate the soil. Generally onions are hardy plants as long as they don’t get waterlogged which can cause the bulb to rot.

    My general advice if planting overwinter onions is to choose a hardy variety for your particular growing zone. For more on hardiness zones see https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/rhs-hardiness-rating The UK is mostly falls into the US zones 6 to 9.

    🌾 Best Onion Varieties for Overwintering in the UK

    Not all onions are equal when it comes to overwintering. Some varieties store for months; others deliver unbeatable flavour or frost resistance. Here are five of the best for UK gardeners:

    🟡 ‘Senshyu Yellow’

    • Origin: Japanese variety
    • Strengths: Hardy, early to mature, mild flavour
    • Storage: 2–3 months
    • Best for: Early harvests and reliable performance

    🧄 ‘Radar’

    • Strengths: Extremely hardy, frost-resistant, strong flavour
    • Storage: Up to 4 months -dehydrate or freeze for longer storage.
    • Best for: Tough UK winters and dependable yields

    🔴 ‘Electric’ (Red Onion)

    • Strengths: Sweet, colourful, and full of character
    • Storage: Shorter (2 months) again freeze or dehydrate for longer storage
    • Best for: Flavour and visual appeal in salads and cooking

    🟤 ‘Shakespeare’

    • Strengths: Vigorous, disease-resistant, long storage life (up to 6 months)
    • Best for: Resilience and long-term use in the kitchen

    ⚪ ‘Troy’

    • Strengths: Quick-growing, balanced flavour, bolt-resistant
    • Storage: Moderate (3–4 months)
    • Best for: Consistent results and high yields

    🐛 Organic Pest Control for Overwintering Onions

    Even the hardiest onions can attract a few unwelcome guests. Overwintered crops are particularly vulnerable to onion fly, slugs, and allium leaf miner. Keeping these critters in check organically will protect your bulbs without harming beneficial insects.

    🪰 Onion Fly

    Onion fly larvae tunnel into the bulbs, causing rot and stunted growth.


    Prevention tips:

    • Use fine mesh or insect netting from planting time until mid-summer to block egg-laying adults.
    • Rotate crops yearly – received wisdom is never plant onions or leeks in the same bed two years running. But with the no-dig method of gardening, I would argue to the contrary. Personally, I have planted both leeks and onions in the same place for several years with no issue. However, each to their own, as with all gardening, you will find what works best for your own growing conditions.
    • Lift and destroy affected bulbs promptly to stop larvae spreading.

    🐌 Slugs and Snails

    These pests can damage emerging shoots during mild spells.


    Control methods:

    • Scatter crushed eggshells, wool pellets, or natural slug barriers around plants.
    • Hedgehogs, frogs, and ground beetles – your best allies in slug control.
    • Avoid beer traps over winter; they attract slugs from surrounding. One of the best ways to to ensure the planting area is clear of debris, and had pick the offending beasties at dusk.

    🪱 Allium Leaf Miner

    A newer UK pest, the allium leaf miner, lays eggs in onion leaves, causing wilting and discolouration.

    Protection tips:

    • Cover crops with fine insect mesh from October through spring.
    • Remove and dispose of any infested foliage—do not compost it.
    • Growing strong-smelling herbs like chives or rosemary nearby may also deter adults

    🌞 When to Harvest and How to Cure Onions

    By June or early July, your overwintered onions should be ready to harvest. When the leaves start to yellow and bend naturally, it’s time to lift them. I have a post about harvesting onions that might be of use here Harvesting Onion – Lift don’t pull.

    Harvesting steps:
    • Gently loosen soil with a fork and avoid bruising the bulbs.
    • Lay onions in a dry, airy location such as a greenhouse or shed. If the greenhouse gets overly hot and sunny, it might be worth covering with a dark netting just to shield them a bit from the direct sunlight
    • Let them cure for 2–3 weeks until the skins are papery and necks sealed.

    Once cured, trim leaves and roots. Store in mesh bags or trays in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space. Check periodically, removing any soft or mouldy bulbs.

    🌻 Final Thoughts

    With the right soil, hardy varieties, and minimal care, you can enjoy an early harvest of onions. Whether in raised beds, borders, or pots, these resilient bulbs prove that patience and preparation pay off in the garden.

    Let me know in the comments your top tips for overwintering onions.

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  • October Gardening: Best Crops to Sow Now

    An infographic illustrating various vegetables to sow in October, including broad beans, carrots, garlic, spinach, spring onions, winter lettuce, and peas, set against a light green background with the title 'What to sow in October'.

    As autumn deepens and we start thinking about putting the heating on, many gardeners put their tools away, assuming the growing season is over. But in the UK and other temperate Zone 9-ish climates, October can be an excellent month for sowing hardy crops that thrive in cooler conditions. The soil is still holding some of the summers warmth and the moisture levels ideal. So now is the time to think ahead. By sowing into open ground, raised beds, or containers, and making use of mulching, you can harvest fresh greens in winter and early spring. Now is the ideal time to enjoy the many benefits of overwintering crops. It’s an ideal strategy for beginner gardeners as the crops below are relatively easy to grow, as long as you keep them protected.

    Broad Beans (Vicia faba)

    Broad beans are a staple October sowing. Sow seeds roughly 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 7 to 8 inches (20 cm) apart in open ground, raised beds or pots. In heavy clay soils, raised beds can improve drainage, but if planting direct make sure the seeds do not get waterlogged. Like many seeds they are prone to rot, so consider sowing under cover until the plat is well established. Germination is best between 10–20°C . Young seedlings benefit from fleece during harsh frosts but the plant will gradually grow into sturdy a stem that will withstand cool conditions. Aphids (Black bean aphid) are a common pest; encourage ladybirds and lacewings, or use organic sprays such as diluted soap solutions. Removing aphids early can help the spread considerably but if its mulching around plants conserves soil warmth and reduces weeds.

    Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

    Spinach thrives in cooler autumn temperatures. Sow seeds 1–2 cm deep in fertile, moist soil, either directly in the ground, in containers or raised beds. Germination occurs best between 10–16°C. Spinach produces leafy rosettes that can be harvested as baby leaves within 6–8 weeks and continue through winter with protection. I cover mine with netting but try to raise it well above the plants to allow for good airflow. I also use further protection for young plants when transplanting into their final position in the form of a closh fashioned from a 5lt water bottle.

    A transparent plastic bottle used as a cloche to protect young plants in a garden bed, with soil visible underneath.

    Mulch with compost to retain soil moisture and a moderate temperature. Slugs and snails are the main threat — organic controls include beer traps, copper tape, or evening hand-picking all work well. If you want to wrap copper tape around your closh that can be helpful. I regularly spray with a home made garlic spray. The pungent smell irritates the slugs and snails sensitive mucus membrane. To make the spray just peel 3 or 4 cloves, cut in half, pop them in a spray bottle and fill with water. Leave this for a few days for the garlic to infuse. Spray directly on the spinach a couple of times a week.

    Winter Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

    Choose hardy varieties such as ‘Winter Density’ or ‘Arctic King’ these are excellent for October sowings. Seeds should be sown thinly, just under the soil surface, either under cloches in the ground or in trays and modules under cover. A green house or polytunnel is ideal, however if you don’t have either cover a seed tray with a clear seed tray cover of lose clear plastic until seeds have germinated. Germination is best at 10–15°C. Plants form compact heads or loose-leaf rosettes that can be harvested from late winter through early spring. Mulch with straw or leaf mould to insulate roots and deter weeds. Protect plants from frost with fleece or cloches. Slugs are the main pest; barriers of wool pellets or sand can provide effective organic defence, or see the tips above for spinach.

    Garlic (Allium sativum) and Spring Onions (Allium cepa var. cepa)

    Garlic cloves should be planted 2–3 cm deep, spaced 10–15 cm apart, in well-drained soil or raised beds. They require a cold spell to develop bulbs. For a full guide on how to grow garlic see my post Overwintering garlic: A new growers guide

    Spring Onions (Allium cepa var. cepa)

    Spring onions, such as ‘White Lisbon Winter Hardy,’ can be sown under cover in modules or trays as soon as possible. Sow thinly at 1 cm deep; germination is best between 10–20°C. Spring onions benefit from mulching, this improves soil structure and keeps weeds at bay. Pests include onion fly and rust; rotating crops, ensuring good airflow and netting will all provide organic prevention.

    Peas (Pisum sativum)

    Hardy varieties like ‘Meteor’ can be sown directly in October for a potential early May crop. Plant seeds 5 cm deep and 5–8 cm apart in double rows, with supports already in place. It’s important to put your supports in when you plant – putting them in once the plant is well established risks damaging the roots as the support goes in. Germination occurs quite reliably in cool soils between 7–15°C. Plants grow slowly through winter before flourishing in early spring. Cover emerging shoots with netting to prevent bird damage. Mildew can be an issue later, but mulching to keep soil moisture consistent, combined with adequate spacing, helps reduce risk organically. Powdery mildew often occurs as the weather warms and the plant tends to get a but humid. Again airflow is key, but some people swear by spraying the affected areas with milk spray. Three parts water, to one part milk in a spray bottle applied to the plant.

    Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus)

    Cold-hardy varieties such as ‘Autumn King’ can still be sown in October in light, sandy soils, ideally in raised beds or pots. Sow thinly 1 cm deep in rows 15–20 cm apart. Germination is best in soils between 7–20°C. Growth will be slow but steady, producing sweet roots by early spring. Carrot fly is the main pest, but mesh barriers or sowing in raised beds taller than 60 cm offer effective organic protection. Mulching helps retain moisture and prevent frost damage to young seedlings. Protect with a loose layer of net and remove when seeds have germinated.

    Final Thoughts

    Sowing in October is all about working with nature’s rhythms. I try to choose hardy varieties that can withstand cooler climates. I use mulches like straw, peat free compost, and leaf mould to insulate roots, suppress weeds, and improve soil health. Because I am an organic gardener I use organic controls to deal with the critters that are attracted to winter crops. By embracing overwintering, and having a little patience to wait for spring, you’ll not only extend your growing season but will also get a head start on the next growing season.

    If you enjoyed this post or found it useful please consider subscribing to the solitaire gardener community. Subscribing is free and will keep you up to date with posts and exclusive content directly to your inbox. Just type your email address in the box below and hit the subscribe button.